Any pics of how this is routed when installed? This is a viable option instead of the 034 TMD correct? I would rather do this since I already have the EQT charge pipe.
That was the biggest thing I was wondering. How it is when it isn't pushed. I greatly appreciate your time to respond. I think where I have arrived is just preemptively replacing the stock PCV with a new one. I have 55k miles and it may just be cheap insurance. I'm horrible about over thinking these things anyway and running elevated boost levels may have side effects I didn't think of, but I try and do what's best for my engine while at the same time modifying.
Yeah, I don't think the piggyback ones that retain the stock PCV is the answer. I've seen based on your data that the valve can't cope with the extra airspace. I wonder about the plate style PCV deletes. I was looking at the Racingline setup because I love their attention to detail on construction, but I'm not 100% convinced this old school straight PCV setup is right for a turbocharged vehicle that isn't track only. The GTI is my first turbo car so this PCV design is completely new to me. I'm used to a crankcase vent going straight to the intake tube with LS V8s which is my background and for obvious reasons that's not what we have here. It's not a surprise that VW has done many revisions as they've honed this approach. Obviously they're going into this to be the most reliable setup for the car they sell. I just wonder how this is affected by tuned cars and wonder if I would benefit from another solution. What adds to my scenario is that I see a lot of highway miles, but I also push the car hard when I can. I'm not sure at this point that either setup is ideal for how I drive the car. I've done a lot of reading into your data and I'm really pleased to see that you'll be testing the APR plate. It's not that I think any aftermarket company has the perfect solution for my use case, but I also wonder how much of VW's solution is shaped and hindered by emissions restraints. Going aftermarket in general skews these results and adds other variables beyond the standard emissions requirements.
Yeah, I don't think the piggyback ones that retain the stock PCV is the answer. I've seen based on your data that the valve can't cope with the extra airspace. I wonder about the plate style PCV deletes. I was looking at the Racingline setup because I love their attention to detail on construction, but I'm not 100% convinced this old school straight PCV setup is right for a turbocharged vehicle that isn't track only. The GTI is my first turbo car so this PCV design is completely new to me. I'm used to a crankcase vent going straight to the intake tube with LS V8s which is my background and for obvious reasons that's not what we have here. It's not a surprise that VW has done many revisions as they've honed this approach. Obviously they're going into this to be the most reliable setup for the car they sell. I just wonder how this is affected by tuned cars and wonder if I would benefit from another solution. What adds to my scenario is that I see a lot of highway miles, but I also push the car hard when I can. I'm not sure at this point that either setup is ideal for how I drive the car. I've done a lot of reading into your data and I'm really pleased to see that you'll be testing the APR plate. It's not that I think any aftermarket company has the perfect solution for my use case, but I also wonder how much of VW's solution is shaped and hindered by emissions restraints. Going aftermarket in general skews these results and adds other variables beyond the standard emissions requirements.
I was getting some smoke and smell from under hood when it got cold which got worse after my deer strike. According to the body shop that is fixing my car they found the washer fluid reservoir to be cracked and leaking onto the radiator. I'm thinking this was cracked before the accident and with it being winter washer fluid it had a fairly high smoke/gas point. There was an odd smell under hood I could not place that wasn't oil or coolant. It almost smelled like rubber. It got much worse after the accident. There's obviously a lot of variables in a street car, but all of this has now been replaced and I'll have the car back at the end of the week. I've not had any increase in oil consumption compared to before the IE Stage 1 tune so it may be all for nothing anyway.
I look forward to your test results of the APR plate and I'll stand by for the time being overthinking my next mod like I always do.
Very nice, thank you for the info. I’ll be going this route.Unfort. haven't been able to test thoroughly/log yet but have done a few pulls and it seems to be solidly in place and not leaking. You want the hose to be about as long as an iphone and barb angled a bit towards the firewall. Don't drill the hole in the charge hose too far from the edge, as it'll be tricky to get a wrench on it to tighten (though I needed to use an adjustable so maybe just a me problem).
Will try to take some logs this week, only time there isn't traffic here is at 5 am
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Sounds like a solid reason to swap back to the factory TIP for the time being.Bottom line if you’re not tracking the car at all then any kind of plate is a dumb solution as you’ll then be putting (light) pressure on the crankcase at all times you’re out of boost. There are multiple people running the MK8 basic retrofit pushing 450-550whp with no problems on the street. I suspect they’ll need the Venturi for track use though like @yakev724 .
I beat the shit out of my car on track for 20 min at a time and have had zero issues in basic or full retrofit configuration (with stock TIP). If you’re not seeing 260F+ oil temps you’re not really stressing the car that much (and assuming you’re not testing the strength of the stock bottom end parts - not really stressing in the same way).
There’s really nothing else to it. There are countless people who have issues with any of the plate systems. Knowing what I know now, it’s likely correlated to the TIP they’re running not being a good match for whatever other clusterfuck of a setup they have. The TIP vacuum testing will possibly be even more relevant for people with plates because there is no regulator to dial down the vacuum.
What’s a lot harder to capture is the fact that the BMS TIP is putting 0.20psi on the crankcase for about 10 seconds every time you’re taking off from a stop. Any plate system will be worse because at least the OEM PCV gets to start out at -0.8 to -0.9psi. Plates will all be positive at idle with no volume of vacuum storage to help.
If/when it’s released, I’d only really consider the Radium plate. They actually do real R&D, not just copy the looks of TCR stuff and sublet to the lowest bidder on AliExpress.
(This isn’t meant to be taken personally- but it’s frustrating knowing that some degree-less idiot former mechanic has done more R&D for the PCV system on this platform than any of the aftermarket parts companies. The PCV thing is just part of it. Don’t get me started on oil coolers, bump-steer, or CSF radiators
Like really - HOW does any aftermarket company not see the hump inside the OEM TIP and not think “Gee, maybe that’s there for a reason?”)
/rant
Finger width gap measurements bro.
Autocross is what brought me to raise my coilovers when I had my JSW, and I purely went with the 'eyeball the control arm angle' approach and even then handling was significantly improved. I can't imagine how much better it would've been had I actually known what I was doing.
