MK7.5 Digital Cockpit retrofit

[HawkeAssault]

Dash is in! Thanks to everyone here!

 

[Cuzoe]

Dash is in! Thanks to everyone here!

What part number is your new dash? I did this retrofit but I suppose I have a ROW part number because it has the "!" symbol instead of the "PARK" to indicate the e-brake is on. I'm indifferent about the e-brake indication but I need to buy another dash anyway for... reasons. May as well grab the NAR one.

 

[Acadia18]

What part number is your new dash? I did this retrofit but I suppose I have a ROW part number because it has the "!" symbol instead of the "PARK" to indicate the e-brake is on. I'm indifferent about the e-brake indication but I need to buy another dash anyway for... reasons. May as well grab the NAR one.

As someone who's been exploring a digital dash retrofit, and noticed you usually like putting things in the classifieds for reasonable prices when you move on, you have my interest... What's wrong with the ROW one you have?

 

[Cuzoe]

No issue with the dash except incorrect mileage on the odometer... my car has somewhere around 33k, my dash has maybe 6k. I had the dealer do the coding/adaptations. When I picked the car up everything seemed to be in order. When the cruise control system is on (but not active) the set speed takes the place of the odometer. Sooooo... I didn't see that the odometer had not been set to match my car's current mileage . I had nearly a full tank which lasts a good while in the TDI. When I eventually need to fill up I checked my odometer to do mpg calculations since the trip meter was reset (expected) when the dash was changed. What the??? My odometer shows ~400 miles. Stupid dealer didn't go through the full process which would have included setting my odometer.

Dash is no longer "new" after something around 60 miles (probably 100km) and the odometer can no longer be changed. I was well past that when I went to fill up. I complain to my dealer who gives some crap about how I didn't specifically ask them to set the odometer... garbage. I argue for a bit, get nowhere. In any case, my odometer doesn't match. I don't see it unless I turn cruise control off but it irks me, almost as much as it irks me that a new dash is going to cost (another) $900 if prices are still the same, haven't looked in a while.

But if anyone around these parts doesn't mind an odometer mismatch I would certainly let this one go for cheap. @Acadia18 has right of first refusal, haha. I've only had the car at a shop a few times since this incident. I always show them my invoice from the dealer for the AID "programming" which has the mileage at that time and beg them to be sure to add that to what my dash shows. That keeps my maintenance receipts in-order and should prevent an issue if they report to CarFax. No issues thus far but inconvenient.

 

[HawkeAssault]

What part number is your new dash? I did this retrofit but I suppose I have a ROW part number because it has the "!" symbol instead of the "PARK" to indicate the e-brake is on. I'm indifferent about the e-brake indication but I need to buy another dash anyway for... reasons. May as well grab the NAR one.

5G1920891A

I grabbed my dash from Camelback VW since they had it in stock.

 

[Cuzoe]

Thanks... man alive these prices have gone up. Or maybe the NAR one has always been more expensive. Mine is a 791A (I think) but I only paid $900 brand new over a year ago.

 

[Acadia18]

But if anyone around these parts doesn't mind an odometer mismatch I would certainly let this one go for cheap. @Acadia18 has right of first refusal, haha. I've only had the car at a shop a few times since this incident. I always show them my invoice from the dealer for the AID "programming" which has the mileage at that time and beg them to be sure to add that to what my dash shows. That keeps my maintenance receipts in-order and should prevent an issue if they report to CarFax. No issues thus far but inconvenient.

So, the odometer mismatch doesn't bother me per se. I don't have a problem of documenting the mileage on both the car and replacement dash to know it's true mileage, but the question in my head would be (and I know a little off topic for the thread) what happens when you go to sell? While personally I have no intention of getting rid of my car anytime soon, what would happen in 5 years if I went to go get rid of the car? The original cluster would be off by 60k miles averaging about 12k a year, and the replacement would never have matched.

I'm dying for a virtual cockpit, and been trying to weigh my options between the Chinesium 3rd party one for $600, or an official one. I've read nothing but good things about the 3rd party one from owners, and the main board looks easy enough to swap. Has the added benefit of not having to worry about coding at all, easy to swap back, and always keeps the correct mileage. Oh, and being cheap. The main benefit of the official one is that well, it's the official one. This thread is rife with coding issues, errors, and problems, and makes it just seem like an all around pain in the ass. Would have the cost of the dash itself, and then paying a 3rd party to do the remote coding, since I don't F with that myself.

 

[HawkeAssault]

Thanks... man alive these prices have gone up. Or maybe the NAR one has always been more expensive. Mine is a 791A (I think) but I only paid $900 brand new over a year ago.

I bought mine 5 months ago, payed about $850 and local pickup.

 

[Nuje]

Thank you everyone for the assistance. I used all the resources available and got the cluster fully functional and coded properly. It couldn't have been done without this forum and Vortex.

Given that you were lamenting how people said they fixed issues or found proper settings but never explained how, could you post what you did to get rid of the errors, as well as what "tube_version" you used to get the "R"-style cluster look?

 

[HawkeAssault]

Given that you were lamenting how people said they fixed issues or found proper settings but never explained how, could you post what you did to get rid of the errors, as well as what "tube_version" you used to get the "R"-style cluster look?

What errors are you encountering?

And just mess around with the tube versions, the cluster will update as soon as you click "Do it!" no need to restart anything.

 

[Cuzoe]

I'm pretty sure Nuje is just asking so that the information is available, not for himself.

@Acadia18 With the number of retrofits and mods I've done and this car being close to what I would spec ideally (a makeshift manual SEL with no sunroof) I haven't even thought about what would happen if I went to sell.

Given what I paid for the car (not much) and what they go for now (also not much) a part out would be the only real option if I was going to get rid of it. And I can't even stomach the thought of parting it out, haha. I could only consider selling it if somehow these last diesels became classics and mine is probably too far from being unmolested to get classic money.

 

[Janman82]

Given that you were lamenting how people said they fixed issues or found proper settings but never explained how, could you post what you did to get rid of the errors, as well as what "tube_version" you used to get the "R"-style cluster look?

"Lamenting" is an interesting way to put it. I would be more then happy to share how my issues were resolved.

First, on my 2017 R I installed "Digital Cockpit" Instrument Cluster 5G1-920-891-A and Dash Trim for "Digital Cockpit" Instrument Cluster 5G0-857-189-B-AAH purchased from https://www.shopdap.com.

Optical Cable purchased from:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/90cm-MOST-fiber-optic-Y-cable-for-AUDI-BMW-MERCEDES-PORSCHE-VW/123822803017?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

A few members that had similar issues did message me privately and all of us had the issue resolved through a VW dealership. The cluster has to be programmed by VW as explained in the links below using ODIS for the immobilizer. From what I know, only a VW dealer can do this and from what I gathered the ABS issues that a few noted, ended up being resolved by their VW dealership. None were given a detailed explanation of how it was corrected. Just that they had to perform a different programming technique. One had a steering rack replaced.

I used these links for installing my retrofit;
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aDvLElA450w5pESjfYC_F_p-kzb3ox_L/edit
https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/15084/#post-136017
And this I found posted by pyrotech1620 on the Vortex which helped get the maps to load on the cluster
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...D)-DIY-Retrofit-Guide-for-Golf-Alltrack/page3

THEREALVRT posted this link for the R look. https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...nfo-display-themes-coding-spreadsheed.357983/ I used this link and set my cluster to Variant 6, Tube version 4, display depiction 1, but I changed to 3 for blue dots.

Now I have a fully functional Active Info Display, hope this helps. Thank you again to everyone who helped me along the way.

 

[nocto]

This may be a dumb question. Looking into picking up a 2018 GTI SE but don't think VW nav is standard. If you retrofit the console to a mk7.5 w/o stock nav does the nav work in the digital dash?

 

[IWMTom]

This may be a dumb question. Looking into picking up a 2018 GTI SE but don't think VW nav is standard. If you retrofit the console to a mk7.5 w/o stock nav does the nav work in the digital dash?

No.

 

[Gti_Driver91]

Hello, I make retrofit but have problem with fuel
Have you got solution ?