GOLFMK8
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carPC steering wheel controls

Golfdubcrazy

New member
Location
London
hi thanks wireb recived the adaptors today can't belive the charged me £20 on tax's will start assemblin them soon but as i have canuse working at the moment i will use that

my problem is i sold my radio as was planning to upgrade to the rns510 but now thinking of using the carpc will have to barrow one :S
 

wireb

Just a noob with a welder
Location
Rochester, MN
Yea international shipping always gets ripped off. I pay taxes here on the parts then the receiver gets to pay the taxes again.

That's why I offered the raw card and micro only package. Keeps the import dues down and the rest of the parts can be ordered from just about any local parts house.

If anyone happens to know what the command sequence you need to put the can gateway to sleep after the car is off I can try adding that to the firmware so you can use this in place of a radio without having to vagcom and disable the radio or have your battery go dead every time you leave the car overnight.

But would be nice to try displaying something first so I can verify I have writes working correctly.
 

nhbubba

CEL free until 48,398 mi
Location
Seacoast NH
nhbubba, which OEM adapter do you have? If it creates its own page on the menu I think logging it would be helpful. If not it probably sends data to the MFD the same way I did. Which I would also be a good idea to log, the more information we have the better.

I guess it is the 'second gen' adapter. I leaned on my dealer to throw it in when I bought my MY09 car in April of '09. If I knew then what I know now about how poorly implemented their adapter is, then I wouldn't have troubled him to bother. My hope was to get this accessory and not have to ever think about such things as a 'carPC'.

My adapter shows info on the audio page. There is no additional page shown when ipod mode vs CD, AUX, or FM modes.

Sounds like you've already got equivalent caps.
 

Golfdubcrazy

New member
Location
London
Hi not sure what you mean to put the gateway to sleep do you mean transport mode to keep the power down or do you mean the wakeup signal from the the central electrics that activates all the module via the Canbus to ON also you have to know the gateway has a ignation sigal which is fused
 

wireb

Just a noob with a welder
Location
Rochester, MN
Hi not sure what you mean to put the gateway to sleep do you mean transport mode to keep the power down or do you mean the wakeup signal from the the central electrics that activates all the module via the Canbus to ON also you have to know the gateway has a ignation sigal which is fused

There is some "feature" that if you remove the stock radio and don't vagcom the car to say it's removed your battery will go dead.

Apparently the gateway stays awake until it gets a message back from the radio saying it's off.

Just bit's and pieces I picked up from other thread so not 100% sure about them.
 

darcness

Go Kart Champion
Location
Grand Blanc MI
Car(s)
2008 GTI CW
I've had my OEM radio out almost since I bought the car. Never had a problem with my battery going dead, so I don't think that's true.

BTW, wireb, I think I jacked up my card. I know for sure I need a new oscillator because I jacked that up. Also, had some resistors in the wrong spot and didn't realize it until I hooked it up to test it out. The resistors are fixed now, but do you know anywhere stateside that I can order a new oscillator?
 

Cadbury

Ready to race!
Location
Winnipeg
Car(s)
GTI MKV
The cluster will remain awake and it will keep the heater, the radio/navigation, bluetooth modules awake if one of the devices in the ring do not send the command to the bus indicating it is ready to sleep.
The sleep command is:
4xx 6 yy zz 00 00 00 00
xx being the module ready for sleep.
2B is the cluster
34 is the heater
39 is the radio
3A is bluetooth

yy contains the ID minus 420 of the module next in the ring.
So if the bluetooth module was going to sleep you would see 0B because the next device is the cluster.
19 if the heater sent the message
0B if the bluetooth sent the message

zz contains the status messages
11 for sleep
01 for normal
02 if the ring is being rebuilt

If you log then take the key out you will see activity for a few seconds then you will see the sleep messages then the bus will go silent.

If you sit in the car while logging with the key out the bus will be silent.
If you turn the key on you will see the devices start to logon.

The devices will announce an intent to login and its own ID minus 420

You will see the cluster say:
42B 6 0B 02 xx xx xx xx
0B its own ID
02 to rebuild the ring

Then you will see the radio say:
439 6 19 02 80 xx xx xx
19 its own ID
02 rebuild the ring
80 request to login

At this point the ring will only have 2 devices so you will see these messages repeating:

42B 6 19 01 xx xx xx xx (19 indicating the next device in the ring, 01 for normal)
439 6 0B 01 xx xx xx xx (0B indicating the next device, in this case the cluster, 01 for normal)

Now the heater logs in:
434 6 14 02 80 xx xx xx
14 own ID
02 rebuild
80 login.

Now we see:
42B 6 14 01 xx xx xx xx (14 indicating the next device in the ring, 01 for normal)
434 6 19 01 xx xx xx xx (19 indicating the next device in the ring, 01 for normal)
439 6 0B 01 xx xx xx xx (0B indicating the next device, 01 for normal)

Notice how the first byte changes after another device logs in.

I hope that wasn't too confusing.. :)

-Cad
 

wireb

Just a noob with a welder
Location
Rochester, MN
I've had my OEM radio out almost since I bought the car. Never had a problem with my battery going dead, so I don't think that's true.

BTW, wireb, I think I jacked up my card. I know for sure I need a new oscillator because I jacked that up. Also, had some resistors in the wrong spot and didn't realize it until I hooked it up to test it out. The resistors are fixed now, but do you know anywhere stateside that I can order a new oscillator?

Did you try putting the osc on the right way. (they are surprisingly durable even after cooking a bit)

Else Digikey is the place to go. Digikey PN X964-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=X964-ND
 

darcness

Go Kart Champion
Location
Grand Blanc MI
Car(s)
2008 GTI CW
Well the problem is that I put it on wrong at first, and then tried to see if I had a short because I was having issues with the unit. Ended up breaking a couple of the solder tabs off and it's now basically impossible to get it back on.

Plus, another question, are the small resistors polarized or not?

Resistor referenced: R1 49.9k ohms, R2,R3,R4 120ohm resistors and R6, R7 10k ohm resistors.

Basically right now when I feed it power, I get no LED's and U3 MCP2551 module is getting rather warm. Luckily I caught this and removed power in time before it got too hot so I think all the components are ok, but I'm confused what I did wrong, unless those resistors I referenced are polarized. This was all done with the oscillator installed correctly just for reference. I only screwed up the oscillator after trying to troubleshoot the above problem.
 

wireb

Just a noob with a welder
Location
Rochester, MN
Well the problem is that I put it on wrong at first, and then tried to see if I had a short because I was having issues with the unit. Ended up breaking a couple of the solder tabs off and it's now basically impossible to get it back on.

Plus, another question, are the small resistors polarized or not?

Resistor referenced: R1 49.9k ohms, R2,R3,R4 120ohm resistors and R6, R7 10k ohm resistors.

Basically right now when I feed it power, I get no LED's and U3 MCP2551 module is getting rather warm. Luckily I caught this and removed power in time before it got too hot so I think all the components are ok, but I'm confused what I did wrong, unless those resistors I referenced are polarized. This was all done with the oscillator installed correctly just for reference. I only screwed up the oscillator after trying to troubleshoot the above problem.

Resistors are not polarized. Sure you have the chips in the right way round (check the hot one that is not normal)

Take a picture of the top side of the card and I can check your placement for ya.
 

Golfdubcrazy

New member
Location
London
wireb i think i remember you saying you had a vw sat tunner or vw amp you should make sure they are shutting down as they would drain the battery in one night
 

wireb

Just a noob with a welder
Location
Rochester, MN
Don't have the drain problem my car is mostly still all factory :) Just know there is usually a rash of posts about the drain problem after folks swap out radios. Just trying to kill 2 birds with one stone.
 

Golfdubcrazy

New member
Location
London
o ok i see now the only thing vagcom does it compleaty remove the radio from the gatway scanlist so it doesnt look for it and doesnt put any faultcodes on the gateway the only thing i think these aftermarket equitment does it send fake radio signals saying everythings ok
 

blackvento36

New member
Location
Easton, Pa
Wow, I've been looking for this since I built the carputer. I rarely come on this forum, just noticed a link from MP3car.com. I read through most of the thread, unfortunately my reading comprehension is pretty bad late at night so I'm a little lost, hoping somebody can help me out.......

First off I have a carputer running Windows XP, and a I have a PC dual booting Ubuntu Linux and XP.
Car is an 06' GLI came equipped with SAT and the 6-disk HU but I sold off both after the carputer install

questions......
I noticed mention of the SAT tuner early on, is this needed to interface with CAN? Like I said, Sat tuner is gone, but wiring is still there. Where can I hit the Can lines?

I use Roadrunner (Riderunner now) as the front end in the car, I'd probably be best off using keyboard emulation to control the FE. I saw mention of using a Serial to USB converter in the first few pages, is this possible? I believe the carpc has a serial port but I'd rather not run another line down the car. I'd rather go from the CAN interface to a usb hub behind my monitor.

I assume I can get the left side of the steering controls working right away. In order to have the right side controls useable I figure the CAN interface would have to appear as the radio so it can display an audio menu in the MFD. Without that the right side buttons would just flip the MFD around.

Is the kit, or at least the board still available? I'm pretty good at soldering but I'm half retarded when it comes to anything programming/software related. So expect alot of questions if I get my hands on one
 
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