Trying to pass emissions - NYC

[akaprince]

My car is a 2008.5 GTI TSI CBFA with an APR KO4, 42DD downpipe high flow cat.

i had a CEL and the pending code was for Secondary Air Injection and my Cat wasnt ready for emission. So i went to Linden VW (when they was still a APR dealer) had them put the No Testpipe file on the car. Still wasnt ready and throwing the same code.

Then i called APR and they told me to go to Redline Speedworx since Linden was no longer a APR dealer. while i was there i got the new KO4 V3.1 file put into my car and a new o2 sensor spacer. Apparently my old one (42dd) was hollow inside and didnt do the job so it was replaced with a new one (vibrant).

Now im getting a pending Catalytic Code (P0420). I'm no longer getting a Secondary Air Injection Code but still cant pass inspection.

I got fed up with driving 60 miles every day after each visit to the shop. so i called APR again and they told me the o2 sensor spacer doesnt always do the trick and myonly other option is to install my OEM downpipe back on.

I started to remove the downpipe and tried to put the OEM downpipe back on but it didnt mate up perfectly, and i noticed that the OEM downpipe only has 2 o2 sensor bungs. So, i called APR again and Victor tells me that the holes are slightly off and i will need to weld a o2 sensor bung at the top of the OEM downpipe.

Now my car is just left at my shop with the downpipe off and the oem one right next to it. Question is do i weld a o2 sensor bung where he told me to which im kind of unclear to exactly where or do i travel back to my parents house to get my OEM KO3 install it back on?

Does anyone have any advice to where and how i weld the o2 sensor bung? because install the KO3 back on will take quite some time.

 

[GIACUser]

My car is a 2008.5 GTI TSI CBFA with an APR KO4, 42DD downpipe high flow cat.

i had a CEL and the pending code was for Secondary Air Injection and my Cat wasnt ready for emission. So i went to Linden VW (when they was still a APR dealer) had them put the No Testpipe file on the car. Still wasnt ready and throwing the same code.

Then i called APR and they told me to go to Redline Speedworx since Linden was no longer a APR dealer. while i was there i got the new KO4 V3.1 file put into my car and a new o2 sensor spacer. Apparently my old one (42dd) was hollow inside and didnt do the job so it was replaced with a new one (vibrant).

Now im getting a pending Catalytic Code (P0420). I'm no longer getting a Secondary Air Injection Code but still cant pass inspection.

I got fed up with driving 60 miles every day after each visit to the shop. so i called APR again and they told me the o2 sensor spacer doesnt always do the trick and myonly other option is to install my OEM downpipe back on.

I started to remove the downpipe and tried to put the OEM downpipe back on but it didnt mate up perfectly, and i noticed that the OEM downpipe only has 2 o2 sensor bungs. So, i called APR again and Victor tells me that the holes are slightly off and i will need to weld a o2 sensor bung at the top of the OEM downpipe.

Now my car is just left at my shop with the downpipe off and the oem one right next to it. Question is do i weld a o2 sensor bung where he told me to which im kind of unclear to exactly where or do i travel back to my parents house to get my OEM KO3 install it back on?

Does anyone have any advice to where and how i weld the o2 sensor bung? because install the KO3 back on will take quite some time.

I think you just need to go in and set everything back to "ready" now that you have got your spacer in. You can go in and change that with a Ross-Tech cable. That is what I did before going in here in California.

Read the posts starting with #295 where I posted what I think you need to do. It worked for me and for another user. Just fixing the real problem that causes the code does not reset things to "ready". That "ready" state is what the smog check looks for.

Have a look at this thread starting at post #295

 

[akaprince]

I've tried setting readiness a few times after each visit, the step counter never went down to 0.


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[GIACUser]

I've tried setting readiness a few times after each visit, the step counter never went down to 0.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This test takes quite a long time, it is possibe you did not complete it. The motor will go through a fairly lengthy simulation of various driving conditions with rpms being varied automatically by the test. You need it to reset in order to pass. Everytime you clear codes you are registering a failed or unready flag. You have done this in the past so you have to have a successful readiness setting to clear those flags.

Give it one more try and stay at it until you get notification that test is complete.My suggestion.

 

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Getting your car to pass emissions with a high flow cat or catless is a crapshoot and you need to experiment with different spacers in order to get it to work.

I was able to get my car to pass emission while being catless with APR stage 2 software:

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...Fix-Thread&p=80387601&viewfull=1#post80387601


I recommend you use the RAI J-bend spacer as they come with adjustable inserts (kind of like tuning a carburetor).
SInce you have a high flow race cat you are one step ahead of me and should only need a little bit of tweaking.
Sucks you are CBFA though, as those are harder to tweak for emissions as CBFA has 3 o2 sensors while CCTA has 2

 

[mustache rash]

Did you ever solve this?

 

[GIACUser]

Did you ever solve this?

CBFA cars unlike CCTA and BPY have 3 o2 sensors.
Pre cat (mounted in turbo housing)
Mid (mounted between cats)
Post cat (mounted after cats)
Note: I don't think there is sufficient room to weld in a pre cat bung on the CBFA downpipe.

CCTA uses only 2 o2 sensors
Pre and Post


To pass a CBFA motor running a K04 you get a CCTA downpipe which has the pre and post cat o2 sensors and just have an o2 bung welded into the mid position and you now have an equivalent stock down pipe and should have no need for spacers.

Instead of driving to set readiness you can use a VCDS (Ross-Tech) cable and have it done in about 10 min in your driveway. You need to do one or the other after the install but cable is better because you need to clear all error codes first and then run the Engine\Readiness

Instruction on how to run readiness with Ross Tech cable Click Here

 

[boki]

OP, just go pay Mike from Tyrol Sport a visit (they are in Queens) - he'll get it all sorted out for you, a great bunch of car enthusiasts there. I have '09 GLI TSI and it took them an hour but they sorted it out and I passed the inspection where I couldn't before. Good luck.