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Sometimes You Feel Like a Nut... Sometimes You Don't (Loooong)

TheJakofallTrads

Car-less
Location
Bronxville, NY
Car(s)
Audi RS3
I installed my BSH Stage 2 pipe a little over 5 weeks ago. The install, besides getting the OEM spring off the turbo inlet, was very easy. Fitment was great. A few weeks ago a couple of people started to notice that the OEM bolt that holds the Stage 2 pipe onto the engine was either backing out or missing altogether so I decided to check mine.

This week I decided to remove the bolt, re-Loctite it and re-install it. On Monday I just tightened the bolt and decided to wait for daylight to re-Loctite the bolt and completely reinstall it.

Tuesday I get in my car to drive home from work, and the car had a lot of trouble starting...okay, weird. Checked the oil, near max, gas in the tank, no problems earlier that day....So I get on the road (LIE in NY) and start to hear a hissing from my AWE boost gauge. I'm boosting fine, spiking and holding what I normally do. I didn't see any oil around my pcv when I checked before, so the DV and PCV are probably good, no CEL, so I assume all is well. I drive to a Shell station on my way home to fill up and problems ensue.

Cars takes about 6.5 gallons of gas from empty. Pump stops and won't let me pump anymore. Get back in the car and decide to go to my local mechanic's shop just in case my car decides to die and I need a tow. Car barely turns over. The brake pedal is vibrating, and sinks to the floor at red lights, the car is surging badly, from 900rpm to 600, back to 800 or 900, and back down again. I pull in to the shop and I decide to plug the port on my T-fitting on my AWE boost tap to see if that's the leak. Take the car around the block and it's surging even worse. Brake pedal vibrates like crazy, i'm thinking it's definitely a vacuum leak from my intake.

Call Dan GSR, "You have a vacuum leak." My local mechanic "You have a vacuum leak." Called Brandon at BSH the next day and Brandon told me, "sounds like a vacuum leak." He also mentioned during testing the guys at BSH had some similar problems when they were switching from the TSI stock intake to their intake and back and forth when the seal wasn't perfect on the silicon couplers, and recommends that I check everything out.

So I decided to remove and reinstall my boost tap and intake on Wednesday. After about 2 hours I removed this....





The OEM bolt is a Torx T30, the head was stripped beyond belief because I had tried using a t25 bit. The threads were absolutely destroyed. I could barely remove the bolt. I ended up using channel locks and a pair of needle nosed pliers and it still took me forever. I bought a 10mm bolt a 10mm nut and two washers and reinstalled the bolt on the mounting bracket on the Stage 2 pipe with some Blue 242 Loctite on the nut.

All problems went away. The pipe was sitting on my brake reservoir and master cylinder and had even worn away a small bit of the rubber coating on the cylinder. The car started fine, ran well, and idle is back up to over 750rpm when fully stopped.

Just a heads up to you TSI guys who install aftermarket intakes. The OEM bolt is shit, I think it's worth finding a 10mm bolt and nut and using that if you remove the OEM bolt in the first place. I spoke with Brandon and he said he would talk to Phill and R&D at BSH and see if including their own bolt from now on is the way to go. Thanks to Brandon at BSH for helping out and taking the time to listen to my minor problem. BSH customer service is awesome! Brandon even PMed me to follow up on the issue.:clap:

Pictars!













 
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ViRtUaLheretic

╭∩╮(︶__︶&#6
Location
KC MO
Car(s)
2009 VW GTI
Thats what I ended up doing to my intake as well.
FOr shits and giggles I threw in a poly washer in between the intake mount and the motor bracket. I also dabbed some loctite on the bolt and put 2 bolts on it just for the hell of it :thumbsup:
 

crew219

Banned
Location
ITH, NY
Isn't it a T30?
 

TheJakofallTrads

Car-less
Location
Bronxville, NY
Car(s)
Audi RS3
It was a t25. No problem with the initial install or the tightening using the 25. It's also a lot tougher to torque a bolt with your hand under the intake pipe close to the fire wall using a Torx. I'd rather lock 3/8 ratchet on the back of a nut and use a 10mm wrench on a nut for the front.
 

crew219

Banned
Location
ITH, NY
It was a t25. No problem with the initial install or the tightening using the 25. It's also a lot tougher to torque a bolt with your hand under the intake pipe close to the fire wall using a Torx. I'd rather lock 3/8 ratchet on the back of a nut and use a 10mm wrench on a nut for the front.

Look at your own pic. The edges of the T25 don't even reach the angled cuts of the bolt head.

http://i460.photobucket.com/albums/qq322/thejakofalltrads/P1010575.jpg

Pretty sure it's a T30 just like the other bolts that look exactly the same that hold up the throttle body pipe and the discharge pipe.

Dave
 

TheJakofallTrads

Car-less
Location
Bronxville, NY
Car(s)
Audi RS3
EDIT!!!

Dave is right, again. it's a t30. FAIL! Still think replacing the bolt with a nut and some washers is smart play, but the head of the OEM bolt is a t30, not a t25.

I'm ashamed of myself:thumbdown:.
 
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