CaptainPumpkin
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- Location
- YYZ
- Car(s)
- VW
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- Thread starter CaptainPumpkin
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Dario
Ready to race!
- Location
- Zagreb,Croatia
- Car(s)
- 7R
I broke 3 DMFs 
in 33.000 km ,but mine is not DSG
in 33.000 km ,but mine is not DSG
ecoterragaia
Ready to race!
- Location
- Richmond, VA
How did you convice them that there was a problem? You said before that they told you it was normal. I've got some clutch sounds (manual tho') and they told me it was normal too. What's the secret?
Mataleao9380
Ready to race!
- Location
- VA
I broke 3 DMFs
Hey since you have the most experience with this, can you post back and tell us more of the symptoms of a failed and or failing DMF. I'm more interested in the "failing" portion.
My car is doing the following:
1. In the morning (car sat over night). I start the car and get it to idle and in neutral..i hear a slight "marbles in a tin can" sound just like the OP posted but not as drastic or loud as the first youtube video. It goes away as soon as I clutch in and comes back as soon as the clutch is released.
2. Once I get going, my 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4 shifts are all followed by a click very similar to the click heard on the 2nd youtube video. Sometimes on my 1 to 2 shift, i get 2 clicks...the clicks happens near or at the clutch engagement point while releasing.
3. In order to ensure a click free, smooth engagement in day to day driving--I sometimes have to hold the clutch just a little longer and release the clutch slower than usual.
4. I've noticed all of the above for a month now but much worse now that its colder (avg of 30F)
ecoterragaia
Ready to race!
- Location
- Richmond, VA
I've got an almost identical situation here, though the "marble" sound has progressed to a knock since it's gotten cold. Hopefully someone can elaborate.
Dario
Ready to race!
- Location
- Zagreb,Croatia
- Car(s)
- 7R
your got all 4/5 simptoms
5. pedal vibration when engaging from stand
also noticed with a friends ED30 ,he has 70.000 km and the DMF is in good shape ,no problems at all ,he only burns the OEM clutch ,while on the other friends normal GTI 50.000 km ,2 DMFs had ben replaced ,but still uses the original pressure plate and clutch
i think the DMF cant cope with the torque ,or maybe i am wrong
my ED30 -360hp 450NM - DMF failed ,clutch hold
friends ED30 300hp 400 NM - DMF great -clutch slips
GTI 280 HP 360NM -DMF fails - clutch holds
so we ordered the Helix Motorsport full SMF kit
ecoterragaia
Ready to race!
- Location
- Richmond, VA
I didn't know if anyone would find this interesting. I'm not sure if we have the LuK or Sachs flywheel, but this is pretty informative as to what is observed during diagnosis of a DMF failure.
ecoterragaia
Ready to race!
- Location
- Richmond, VA
I'm at the dealership right now for the third time regarding my (failing) DMF. The symptoms that everyone is talking about have gotten progressively worse, and i was hoping that I'd be able to point them out to the tech. I have an '07 GTI with 49,400 miles. I just took a test drive with him though and he said that he didn't notice anything wrong. He says that the sounds are normal and that the car drives normally. I can't convey the problems that I've noticed because I've had the car since new in November 2006 and it's hard to tell him that it used to feel so much more solid than it does now. He says that he has replaced a few DMF's on the TDI's with "automatic" transmissions, and the normal indicators of DMF failure are not evident on my car. He says that excessive clutch dust and grease coming from the vent port on the bell housing are the indicators. However, from what I've read, that's only the case when the grease membrane has broken, not when axial bearings simply wear out like I think mine have. I know I'm not crazy because I just took a coworker's '06 GLI (with 54,000 miles on it) for a drive on Monday, and his clutch had so much grip that I actually stalled the car when i was backing out of the parking space. I almost stalled it two more times during my 3 mile test drive. I don't have any slippage, just a lot weird issues with clutch feel, shifting, and noises. My symptoms:
1) vibration coming up through the steering wheel and a very quiet on-and-off grinding sound while going down the road,
2) clutch uptake is intermittent, sometimes an inch from the top of travel, sometimes only 2 inches from the floor
3) when I rev the engine to 2000 rpms with the clutch pedal in, there's a "double rev" effect
4) knocking noises very prevalent when cold, that go away or get much quieter when the clutch pedal is depressed. At first I thought that this was the beginning of bottom end knock from a slipped conrod bearing, but the knocking goes away completely when the engine warms up.
5) in high gears when i let off the throttle, there's a "double slowdown" effect. like on the highway in 6th, i let off the throttle and there's a "click" slowdown, followed by a more solid feeling slowdown about 1 second later
6) I have to hold the clutch in longer and longer when shifting gears. the engine wants to hold higher rpms for longer than before
7) of course, the marbles sound when idleing
8) it's getting harder to rev match on downshifts, can't seem to get it right lately, when before, I was pretty good at it
9) gears don't want to go in as smoothly as they used to (i.e. there's a longer pause before I can lightly push it into gear)
10) loud clicking or clunking sound while in gear when applying then letting off the throttle. this is more prevalent in lower gears.
11) intermittent studdering when engaging the clutch in first gear from a complete stop. I've found myself revving a tiny bit higher and slipping the clutch for a longer amount of time, 1/2 second longer, in order to prevent this studdering.
12) If I was in stop-n-go traffic (pretty rare though), I used to be able to leave it in first gear and creep along at idle nice and smooth. Now when I do this I get a slinky effect that jerks the car back and forth.
I've checked all of my engine mounts, they're great. I've logged tons of parameters with VAGCOM, and everything is normal (except that my oil temperature sensor reads -60*C all the time). I don't have any codes. I just replaced my cam follower even though the original was barely worn. I checked my oil for metal, and found a few small flakes in the first sample, but not in the next three (I think they were from the plug being that the engine was hot and the pan held the plug tightly, I had to back it the entire way out with a wrench). I change my oil every 3500 miles, and recently switched to GC 0W-30 from Castrol 5W-40. None of my CV boots are torn, and all wheel hubs are the same luke-warm temperature after my 15 mile trip home from work.
Dealership just came and asked I wanted to leave the car for the day or overnight to let the engine cool since I told them it's worse when cold. I guess I'm stuck here until this afternoon.
1) vibration coming up through the steering wheel and a very quiet on-and-off grinding sound while going down the road,
2) clutch uptake is intermittent, sometimes an inch from the top of travel, sometimes only 2 inches from the floor
3) when I rev the engine to 2000 rpms with the clutch pedal in, there's a "double rev" effect
4) knocking noises very prevalent when cold, that go away or get much quieter when the clutch pedal is depressed. At first I thought that this was the beginning of bottom end knock from a slipped conrod bearing, but the knocking goes away completely when the engine warms up.
5) in high gears when i let off the throttle, there's a "double slowdown" effect. like on the highway in 6th, i let off the throttle and there's a "click" slowdown, followed by a more solid feeling slowdown about 1 second later
6) I have to hold the clutch in longer and longer when shifting gears. the engine wants to hold higher rpms for longer than before
7) of course, the marbles sound when idleing
8) it's getting harder to rev match on downshifts, can't seem to get it right lately, when before, I was pretty good at it
9) gears don't want to go in as smoothly as they used to (i.e. there's a longer pause before I can lightly push it into gear)
10) loud clicking or clunking sound while in gear when applying then letting off the throttle. this is more prevalent in lower gears.
11) intermittent studdering when engaging the clutch in first gear from a complete stop. I've found myself revving a tiny bit higher and slipping the clutch for a longer amount of time, 1/2 second longer, in order to prevent this studdering.
12) If I was in stop-n-go traffic (pretty rare though), I used to be able to leave it in first gear and creep along at idle nice and smooth. Now when I do this I get a slinky effect that jerks the car back and forth.
I've checked all of my engine mounts, they're great. I've logged tons of parameters with VAGCOM, and everything is normal (except that my oil temperature sensor reads -60*C all the time). I don't have any codes. I just replaced my cam follower even though the original was barely worn. I checked my oil for metal, and found a few small flakes in the first sample, but not in the next three (I think they were from the plug being that the engine was hot and the pan held the plug tightly, I had to back it the entire way out with a wrench). I change my oil every 3500 miles, and recently switched to GC 0W-30 from Castrol 5W-40. None of my CV boots are torn, and all wheel hubs are the same luke-warm temperature after my 15 mile trip home from work.
Dealership just came and asked I wanted to leave the car for the day or overnight to let the engine cool since I told them it's worse when cold. I guess I'm stuck here until this afternoon.