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CTS Throttle Pipe Installation and Thoughts

JTK37

New member
Location
New Jersey
I've been revamping the intake plumbing on my 16 DSG and chose the CTS Throttle pipe. I started my intake mods with the Neuspeed Hi-Flo Turbo Discharge as I have been happy with the P-Flo intake(sound, performance and parts quality/finish). I like the increase in diameter over the stock TOP that the Neuspeed offered and wanted to keep things the same on the throttle pipe side. The Spulen kit had been recommended but it didn't have the same 2.5" dia as the Neuspeed TOP or CTS Throttle Pipe, so I elected to go with the CTS.

In any system there will be a limiting factor, I want to remove as much restriction as possible(on my own DIY) so I started on the intake side. I understand there will be still be limiting factors, downpipes, exhaust, turbo capacity itself. But this is a start, if I can get it in I can figure out a way to get it out.

Upon opening I was pleased with the quality of the part in finish and welds. Scoured the box and found no instructions(.pdf on their website) or packing list of any kind(weird).

Install was pretty straight forward, I followed the CTS .pdf which was eh in quality and pictures as well as the Spulen installation from USP which I thought was a little better written and photographed.

Initial thoughts
I like the increase in diameter over the stock throttle pipe, volume of flow CAN increase, whether the turbo can produce an increase flow rate (volume and speed) to take advantage of it I don't really know(anyone know what its actually capable of?). The path of flow is a little more direct, now makes one 90* turn as opposed to the longer 110*ish degree turn.




Installation
Getting the stock throttle body silicone off is a little bit reminiscent to the girl you dated who your mother hated..... she's a b!t$h.


Heres a tip, I took of the stock intake runner(2-T25 screws and it pops right out), you can see it on top of the engine cover in this pic


That gave a little bit more room to access the 7mm hose clamp. I worked the silicone hose off the throttle body with a large long handled flathead screw driver. After removing the intercooler exit hose, MAP connector and two T30 screws mounting the stock throttle pipe I was able to pull the whole thing straight out the bottom pretty smoothly. If you have a second set of hands have them apply some downward pressure on the throttle body hose and it should pop free. Minimal twisting and its clear of everything.


Once the stock pipe was removed getting the CTS unit on was easier than expected. I was able to take the new silicon hose and install it by itself from beneath the car. I have pretty average size arms so this helped. I reached up, wiggled and rotated until it was seated fully, slid the clamp up from the bottom and oriented it so I could tighten the 7mm.
The new pipe went into place pretty smoothly, took some jostling to align it and slide it into the new silicon hose which was already on the throttle body(make sure you have a clamp aligned as you'll want it on the tube if you do it this way). A 3/8" closed end wrench came in hand to snug the new pipe into place where it has a slotted mount. Please note, if you do it this way you need to be able to reach up alongside the pipe to secure the hose clamp to the bottom of the silicon throttle body hose. ITS TIGHT, small tools and cuts and scrapes on the hands, but it is doable.

Impressions
Coupled with the Neuspeed Turbo Discharge things seem noticeably smoother. I can't measure Hp or Tq and I won't try to guess. What I've seen so far in close to 75 miles over two days has been the following:
1) No increase in noise- if anything I would say it may be a touch quieter, as if the flow has become smoother and with less turbulent restriction that otherwise was creating some sounds

2) Power Deliver- Like the turbo discharge I believe this has further increased the freeness with which RPM builds from 2750RPM up. I never had any complaints about power delivery being jerky or lagging, but now it seems more rubber band like, just a smooth build straight to redline.

Overall I'm pleased. I like the quality of the parts and what differences I've been able to perceive. With the next step being a tune or piggy back I'm hoping this combination of changes opened up the intake tract enough to make a difference. I know I've got to get everything I put into it back out, so a down pipe will be in the future as well, unfortunately that may not be a DIY install.
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Great write up. I know eventually I'll be doing this so good to hear a review on it.
 

LeGti

Ready to race!
Location
France
Thanks for the review JTK37!!

I ordered the same part from USP over two months ago (got caught up in French Customs No-Man's Land). Can't wait to get it & install it: with the Wagner intercooler, BCS turbo-back, modded airbox & JB1 turned up to 5.6 the piping is now the limiting factor...

Thanks again!
 

mikeemorales

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
CA, USA.
very good read JTK37!

quick question tho:

is the stock pipe plastic or aluminum? was gonna get the jb1 soon, but am scared that the pipe might crack if its plastic and I go anything higher than jb1.
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
Stock pipe is plastic, but tons of people run with the stock pipes so I wouldn't worry about cracking.
 

davidk1175

Ready to race!
Location
Florida
Just as another option for those looking to do this I am going with Leyo-Motorsports


This is a good write up thanks for being thorough.
 

Mk7GTl

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Just as another option for those looking to do this I am going with Leyo-Motorsports


This is a good write up thanks for being thorough.

Charge pipes look nice. I want to get rid of the Spulen.
 

mikeemorales

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
CA, USA.
Stock pipe is plastic, but tons of people run with the stock pipes so I wouldn't worry about cracking.



Thank you! Good to know. Now i feel pretty safe about it. Just received the jb1 before christmas and was about to install today, but i see the jb4 is released so i might trade it in to bms [emoji848]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Thanks for the review JTK37!!

I ordered the same part from USP over two months ago (got caught up in French Customs No-Man's Land). Can't wait to get it & install it: with the Wagner intercooler, BCS turbo-back, modded airbox & JB1 turned up to 5.6 the piping is now the limiting factor...

Thanks again!

The piping is never a limiting factor on mk7. At all...several cars running 2X stock hp with stock piping
 

0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County
I agree for most setups I don't believe it's a restriction. That being said, theoretically the APR kit should be using upgraded piping. Depending on your redline and amount of boost though, this will vary.

Airflow is most efficient at .4-.5 Mach and above that is a restriction. Looking at the compressor maps for the EFR7163, a conservative estimate is 650cfm at redline (25psi at 7500rpm). This means the stock piping could handle it, but barely 1.8-2.25" needed for .4-.5 Mach). If you up the boost a bit (28psi) it will require 2-2.5".

As you can see the stock piping is more than adequate for just about all of us. Each setup is different though and properly knowing your setup ahead of time can help eliminate bottlenecks down the road.

I myself recently upgraded my piping just because. Was it a need? Not at all, but I have noticed slightly faster spool when WOT. I do think the stock has restrictions based on the shape in some areas, but I think the stock plastic may insulate better than the aluminum pipes too. It's definitely one of those last mods to do.
 
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0bLiViOuS

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I'm not even going to read that before answering. Ik the general rule of thumb is 3" for over 300whp.

My argument is the cost vs hp gain. Sure you will gain a little, and that little grows as over hp goes up. But $500-2000 for 25-30 whp? Money to be spent last after you upgrade your intercooler and turbo for sure.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I agree for most setups I don't believe it's a restriction. That being said, theoretically the APR kit should be using upgraded piping. Depending on your redline and amount of boost though, this will vary.

Airflow is most efficient at .4-.5 Mach and above that is a restriction. Looking at the compressor maps for the EFR7163, a conservative estimate is 650cfm at redline (25psi at 7500rpm). This means the stock piping could handle it, but barely 1.8-2.25" needed for .4-.5 Mach). If you up the boost a bit (28psi) it will require 2-2.5".

As you can see the stock piping is more than adequate for just about all of us. Each setup is different though and properly knowing your setup ahead of time can help eliminate bottlenecks down the road.

I myself recently upgraded my piping just because. Was it a need? Not at all, but I have noticed slightly faster spool when WOT. I do think the stock has restrictions based on the shape in some areas, but I think the stock plastic may insulate better than the aluminum pipes too. It's definitely one of those last mods to do.

I agree, and I too will eventually upgrade. In my case I'll build my own 3" single exit cat back, but for now my muffler delete does the job of making the car sound better. Even tho it serves no real performance purpose I did it for free other than my time and imo it sounds great
 

Ricked_Em

Go Kart Champion
Location
STL
I'm not even going to read that before answering. Ik the general rule of thumb is 3" for over 300whp.

My argument is the cost vs hp gain. Sure you will gain a little, and that little grows as over hp goes up. But $500-2000 for 25-30 whp? Money to be spent last after you upgrade your intercooler and turbo for sure.

I got magnaflow shipped to my house for $555, about the price of a mid range downpipe. How isnt that a good bang for the buck? I've noticed a little more power.
 
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