BOV vs Diverter Valve

[jedijake101]

Which one is better last on your car BOV or diveter Valve?


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[Finglonga]

Stock, no need to add tat that makes the car sound shiyte.

 

[greggles]

Stock is best. It's recommended for even stage 3 applications. If you would like noise, get a DV spacer. It'll let it vent to atmosphere and give you the sound you desire, while maintaining the excellent performing factory unit.

 

[Riptide09]

I've had an MKV and an MK7 both had Forge atmospheric DV's. no loss in boost pressure and sounds awesome. Others may disagree with my statement but I love it and it's worth it to me.


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[Quebster]

I heard of stock DV cracking............. soooooooo I got a CTS DV. But BOV literally is just for noise.

 

[greggles]

Stock DV cracking is just promotional material by the manufacturers selling aftermarket BOV's.

Generally you introduce issues when replacing the stock DV, as the stock DV is part of the vehicles boost control. (It pulses and performs a variety of acrobatics). So if you change the spring rate of the stock DV, or replace it with aftermarket parts, that system no longer functions the same way, which could be in detriment to the vehicle.

If anyone has been following the APR Stage 3 threads, APR recently had a customer car that wasn't hitting the stage 3 targets. Part of this was APR's fault, but part of it was the various "upgrades" the owner had installed on the car.

APR removed some of these parts and replaced them with OEM.

We updated to the new production intent file and WG and redynoed at 402 AWTQ / 422 AWHP.

We then removed his aftermarket parts and installed new APR and OEM parts. We replaced his intake, intercooler, hoses and clamps with APR parts. We replaced his motor mounts, diverter valve, turbo outlet hose and throttle body pipe with OEM parts. We removed all water/meth parts. We changed his oil to 300v. We gapped the plugs to the proper specs. We pressure tested the system to 35 PSI to confirm it was leak free. We redynoed and it put down 410 AWTQ / 444 AWHP*.

When the cars are making 444 all wheel horsepower run better with the stock charge pipes and stock DV...maybe we should just stop trying to mess with what works perfectly fine.

*=That's around 540 hp at the crank. With the stock DV.

 

[eddiekranc]

i had the cts bov for a while and it was fun, but i started to notice, especially after tuning, a little loss in power or response, idk never looked at numbers, but for sure there was a loss somewhere. I went back to stock and it was night and day, the shifts and and revs were way more responsive. My friends were like no shit your releasing pressure instead of keeping it on high revs blah blah, idk the science but i def prefer stock and constant pressure vs just sound and lack of response. shop workers also gave me the same info that bov's are a waste, sound is cool but when you wanna go fast you are sacrificing the pressure you just finished building prior to shifting. Recyclation air pressure vs having to rebuild it. again i don't know shit to it just stating what others have said.

i know ive read that bovs might be better than a dv cause the blades keep spinning and don't get the push back from a dv since it releases the air, but a dv is supposed to recycle, through another path im guessing?, not push it back so that makes no sense.

if u need to change out, id say get a dv, you can get the dv+ or any other dv. I know the gfb dv+ has to be oiled every coupel thousand miles.

 

[Riptide09]

i had the cts bov for a while and it was fun, but i started to notice, especially after tuning, a little loss in power or response, idk never looked at numbers, but for sure there was a loss somewhere. I went back to stock and it was night and day, the shifts and and revs were way more responsive. My friends were like no shit your releasing pressure instead of keeping it on high revs blah blah, idk the science but i def prefer stock and constant pressure vs just sound and lack of response. shop workers also gave me the same info that bov's are a waste, sound is cool but when you wanna go fast you are sacrificing the pressure you just finished building prior to shifting. Recyclation air pressure vs having to rebuild it. again i don't know shit to it just stating what others have said.

i know ive read that bovs might be better than a dv cause the blades keep spinning and don't get the push back from a dv since it releases the air, but a dv is supposed to recycle, through another path im guessing?, not push it back so that makes no sense.

if u need to change out, id say get a dv, you can get the dv+ or any other dv. I know the gfb dv+ has to be oiled every coupel thousand miles.

Very interesting. I'm not going for the fast car, I don't plan on racing anyone or anything so it makes no difference to me as long as it doesn't hurt my engine. I haven't noticed a change yet but it's good to know if I experience anything in the future to put in my stock DV.


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[Quebster]

Stock DV cracking is just promotional material by the manufacturers selling aftermarket BOV's.

Generally you introduce issues when replacing the stock DV, as the stock DV is part of the vehicles boost control. (It pulses and performs a variety of acrobatics). So if you change the spring rate of the stock DV, or replace it with aftermarket parts, that system no longer functions the same way, which could be in detriment to the vehicle.

If anyone has been following the APR Stage 3 threads, APR recently had a customer car that wasn't hitting the stage 3 targets. Part of this was APR's fault, but part of it was the various "upgrades" the owner had installed on the car.

APR removed some of these parts and replaced them with OEM.



When the cars are making 444 all wheel horsepower run better with the stock charge pipes and stock DV...maybe we should just stop trying to mess with what works perfectly fine.

*=That's around 540 hp at the crank. With the stock DV.

Actually heard about it from a friend... whose OEM DV cracked. I agree that stock DV is fine for the record, it was an in the moment thing and probably an isolated incident but I think my CTS DV is fine as well.

Also, they changed a lot when hitting that 444 mark... Hard to say what made the difference when they upgraded things such as the CAI and IC, and pipes...

 

[16GTI]

Hey guys, is the stock dv really better than the gfb dv+? Is it better for the car to run the oem dv instead? I'm apr stage 2. Thanks.


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[greggles]

There is nothing wrong with the stock DV. Only replace it if it is damaged.

Quebster,

The point isn't that the OEM parts gained power, so much as the OEM parts didn't hurt the power at all. There was practically no difference between them and the aftermarket, and if anything, they were hurting performance.

It's kyle's car, and he is posting in the technical section about it.

Exactly. I've learned a lot about modding this platform in the last few months. Unfortunately the lessons came after I spent decent chunks of money on after market performance parts that turned out to be at best unnecessary and potentially even detrimental to performance.

 

[Quebster]

There is nothing wrong with the stock DV. Only replace it if it is damaged.

Quebster,

The point isn't that the OEM parts gained power, so much as the OEM parts didn't hurt the power at all. There was practically no difference between them and the aftermarket, and if anything, they were hurting performance.

It's kyle's car, and he is posting in the technical section about it.

I understand, makes sense. Also, the throttle pipe to OEM is interesting because if that bolt is missing or not to spec that bolts it in, the vibrations can be seen as knock by the ECU, similar to the mount stuff. Pretty interesting, learned that from George the other day!


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[bluekid99]

I Ran the GFB DV+ and loved it but it wasnt loud enough so switched to Forge BOV and i love the sound...performance wise i never noticed a difference