Hey Kruegernaut!
There are only three things that you can touch with an alignment rack:
Everything is going to be a trade-off so the question is how much do you want to balanced aggressive corner handling vs. straight-line stability. And you're going to get a LOT of opinions here.
Check My Garage for what I am running and that would get you pretty close for a daily driver
For Toe all the way around I would do 0.05 - 0.08˚ depending on how much you want your car to track in a straight-line.
For rear camber you can do anything from about -1.2 to -1.8 or even -2.0˚. But good all around is maybe -1.4-1.5˚. Pretty much the rear will stick better than the front on our cars unless you are going to do Scandinavian Flicks or tapping the brakes mid corner to shift weight forward so it won't really add too much. I'd just go with the -1.5 and fine-tune from there to your specific set-up, balance, and preference. Our rears are so light that the camber won't affect inner tire wear that much actually, especially if you rotate your tires every so often. You'll probably end up with about -1.2 camber up front give or take a bit.
If you are spaced too much you might have to add a little more to clear but it sounds like you don't have to worry about that with your wheels and spacers.
While front camber isn't adjustable it's kind of nice to have a bit more in the front...not so much that your braking and acceleration is compromised. 0 camber would be for 1/4 mile drag and 2˚ would be for aggressive cornering. But since we aren't super low the non-adjustable camber isn't really as low as we might like for handling. But there is a trick. After your suspension is installed and mostly settled loosen the three nuts on each strut tower and compress the front of your car. Jump on the radiator support or something, then take a big allen or screwdriver driver and push each strut shaft toward the center of your car - toward your shifter - to give you 0.1-0.2˚ more camber and caster. The Bilsteins have a hex socket at the top of the center tube. Then jump on the front radiator support again to compress and settle everything. Then, cinch down each the strut tower nuts.
Then, you're ready for an alignment! :thumbsup:
It's nice to have a life-time alignment from FireStone or wherever, but if you get it right you might not need another for quite some time.
Let us know how it goes! :wink:
There are only three things that you can touch with an alignment rack:
- Front Toe
- Rear Toe
- Rear Camber
Everything is going to be a trade-off so the question is how much do you want to balanced aggressive corner handling vs. straight-line stability. And you're going to get a LOT of opinions here.
Check My Garage for what I am running and that would get you pretty close for a daily driver
For Toe all the way around I would do 0.05 - 0.08˚ depending on how much you want your car to track in a straight-line.
For rear camber you can do anything from about -1.2 to -1.8 or even -2.0˚. But good all around is maybe -1.4-1.5˚. Pretty much the rear will stick better than the front on our cars unless you are going to do Scandinavian Flicks or tapping the brakes mid corner to shift weight forward so it won't really add too much. I'd just go with the -1.5 and fine-tune from there to your specific set-up, balance, and preference. Our rears are so light that the camber won't affect inner tire wear that much actually, especially if you rotate your tires every so often. You'll probably end up with about -1.2 camber up front give or take a bit.
If you are spaced too much you might have to add a little more to clear but it sounds like you don't have to worry about that with your wheels and spacers.
While front camber isn't adjustable it's kind of nice to have a bit more in the front...not so much that your braking and acceleration is compromised. 0 camber would be for 1/4 mile drag and 2˚ would be for aggressive cornering. But since we aren't super low the non-adjustable camber isn't really as low as we might like for handling. But there is a trick. After your suspension is installed and mostly settled loosen the three nuts on each strut tower and compress the front of your car. Jump on the radiator support or something, then take a big allen or screwdriver driver and push each strut shaft toward the center of your car - toward your shifter - to give you 0.1-0.2˚ more camber and caster. The Bilsteins have a hex socket at the top of the center tube. Then jump on the front radiator support again to compress and settle everything. Then, cinch down each the strut tower nuts.
Then, you're ready for an alignment! :thumbsup:
It's nice to have a life-time alignment from FireStone or wherever, but if you get it right you might not need another for quite some time.
Let us know how it goes! :wink:
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