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Old 09-14-2019, 11:57 AM   #1
buyingconstant7
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Drives: 2007 GTI 3dr 6spd
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 7
Turbo is done, now what?

Since I bought this car a year ago, I've had a weird boost issue. Car sometimes felt slow, sometimes felt normal. No codes or anything. In full boost, it would majorly surge, followed by a small power cut, throughout the rev band. Thought it was diverter valve, nope. My wastegate actuator rod has play. Since it's internally wastegated, I guess it's time for a turbo. I can get a known good OEM used K03 replacement for $550. Or should I upgrade? People are saying to ditch the car and go new or something else. I love this car and see it's potential. It does need some work, I need a RR brake caliper, rear pads and rotors, a passenger front CV axle soon, needs tires and an alignment, and my subframe clunks REAL bad. And now this, but I can still drive the car. Ditch car? Get just a K03? Or upgrade? If I were to upgrade what should I get?? K04? I don't want to ruin my bank account.
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:58 PM   #2
ROH ECHT
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Drives: 2007 mkv gti
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Location: PDX OR
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I would first test the resistance of the N75-boost control valve. It should be 25 ohm-minimum across its two pins. It is mounted on the turbo, just unplug it and ohm test it. I would also test the pcv. It can leak boost, so you just blow into the PCV to intake manifold tube after disconnecting the tube from the manifold. I would check all else that can leak boost...boost plumbing connections and the intake manifold.

I wouldn't replace the turbo without inspecting it. If you have a bore-scope, you can remove the turbo outlet and scope the compressor and the down-pipe can be removed and you can also check the turbine condition and waste-gate for damage or play.

You didn't mention if you checked the error/fault codes. I assume you have no way to look at its running data, correct?
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:53 PM   #3
MagicMK
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Drives: 2008 GTI
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: PA
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It really doesn't make any sense that the Turbo would fail and you'd get absolutely no codes. If you're talking about installing a Turbo, which is a serious undertaking, then you should hopefully have the Ross Tech software or a high end scanner. You need to check ALL of the body and engine codes, not just codes that trigger a CEL. A failed turbo (if it even is that) should be causing a whole s-load of trouble codes.
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