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Old 05-28-2019, 12:06 PM   #23
Cjpolokid
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Ok now im having another small issue, car is bounce revving at idle. This only happened after I installed a new exhaust setup last week. I sense its some vacuum leak but i double chked everything upon completion. My suspicion is the 02 sensor but cant be sure. Maf is fine, coil packs & plugs are new. No codes were thrown at me though. I had this similar issue a while ago and it turned out to be brittle brake booster hoses which I replaced and car was back to normal.

Any idea?


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Check the diver valves cause the downpipe increased flow so you might have blew out ur diver valve


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Old 05-28-2019, 01:23 PM   #24
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Check the diver valves cause the downpipe increased flow so you might have blew out ur diver valve


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I just opened it other day and was fine, plus itís attached to gfb+.


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Old 05-28-2019, 05:45 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by S T View Post
Ok now im having another small issue, car is bounce revving at idle. This only happened after I installed a new exhaust setup last week. I sense its some vacuum leak but i double chked everything upon completion. My suspicion is the 02 sensor but cant be sure. Maf is fine, coil packs & plugs are new. No codes were thrown at me though. I had this similar issue a while ago and it turned out to be brittle brake booster hoses which I replaced and car was back to normal.

Any idea?


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Yes, bouncy/lumpy idle is most likely mechanical rather than electrical. Would either be a leak in vacuum or PCV tubing, intake manifold, or a seal. But can also be a failed PCV.

So, do you have Ross-Tech's vcds or other diagnostic tool? How do you know the MAF is fine? How's your LTFT additive look when you reset it?

Anyway, if you unplug the MAF and the idle returns to running smoothly...you have a leak
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Old 05-29-2019, 12:54 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
Yes, bouncy/lumpy idle is most likely mechanical rather than electrical. Would either be a leak in vacuum or PCV tubing, intake manifold, or a seal. But can also be a failed PCV.



So, do you have Ross-Tech's vcds or other diagnostic tool? How do you know the MAF is fine? How's your LTFT additive look when you reset it?



Anyway, if you unplug the MAF and the idle returns to running smoothly...you have a leak


Did the pcv chk test, dipstick test, oil cap test, maf test all seems ok. Only thing i can think of is the brake booster (one connected to the wall) cos thats the only hose I replaced during the exhaust installation. The brakes did seem hard at first and gradually soften over time. Iíve yet to chk the brake booster, its a pain to reach to need to remove my CAI.
I used my obd2 device, i know it wonít read in depth as vcds etc. thatís my only access for now. I do hope it the brake booster cos it was a pain to replace and install.


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Old 06-04-2019, 02:07 AM   #27
S T
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Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
Yes, bouncy/lumpy idle is most likely mechanical rather than electrical. Would either be a leak in vacuum or PCV tubing, intake manifold, or a seal. But can also be a failed PCV.



So, do you have Ross-Tech's vcds or other diagnostic tool? How do you know the MAF is fine? How's your LTFT additive look when you reset it?



Anyway, if you unplug the MAF and the idle returns to running smoothly...you have a leak


Found the culprit, its a broken brake hose thatís connected to the brake booster. Itís covered in the oem heat shield so couldnít see until I pulled it out. Need to replace the long plastic hose that runs across the wall to connect to the brake booster.


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