Don’t bother with studs for fuel pump, just use a torque wrench and proper specs.
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New Owner 2008 GTI..some questions
- Thread starter Royson345
- Start date
Don’t bother with studs for fuel pump, just use a torque wrench and proper specs.
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Wouldn't bother will the stud kit unless you planning on checking the follower at every oil change. As mentioned torque to spec and it helps to put the engine at DTC when removing / installing the Hpfp / cam follower, unfortunately this is never mentioned in any DIY that I have seen. You will find it in the Factory manuals, putting the Hpfp cam lobe at the base of the circle equals less effort to install Hpfp.
3carmonte
Gelbrain
- Location
- Seminole, FL
- Car(s)
- 2007 GTI DSG Coup
Check your rear brake pads. They wear faster than the fronts on these cars. No nose-dives on hard stops and control while braking is better too because of this metering. Replace the brake fluid. Use the VW OEM DOT 4.
Yeah. That bolt kit is not what it's cracked-up to be IMHO. Too much fun getting the HPFP off of the studs to check the cam follower. The bolts work better. Replace the diverter valve. (15 minute job). Get this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg-parts/upgraded-piston-diverter-valve-06h145710d/06h145710dkt/
All stuff I learned in here.
Yeah. That bolt kit is not what it's cracked-up to be IMHO. Too much fun getting the HPFP off of the studs to check the cam follower. The bolts work better. Replace the diverter valve. (15 minute job). Get this one: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-pierburg-parts/upgraded-piston-diverter-valve-06h145710d/06h145710dkt/
All stuff I learned in here.
vwengineer
Ready to race!
- Location
- Switzerland
Never heard of it either, but isn't it a big hassle to put the engine at DTC just to do this job? I didn't do it and for me it was a pain due to the banjo bolt but the rest was really easy.
PS: I wouldn't bother with the studs either as long as you are not stage 2 with higher pressure pump (which requires to change the follower frequently)
Royson345
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- New Jersey
Thanks for the info! Funny you mentioned that diverter valve as I had already bookmarked it and planned to swap it out with the stock one in the near future. I pulled the wheels off anmd checked all the brake pads all the way around, they seam to be fine so far. Will deff flush the brake fluid, who knows how long its been in there. Are the rear calipers tricky to do? I know there are some cars that require you to spin the piston in instead of just compressing it. Is that the case with this car?
vwengineer
Ready to race!
- Location
- Switzerland
Yes, I think it's like this with most of the cars. That's due to the mechanical parking brake. But it's not needed to flush the system.
Royson345
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- New Jersey
Damn German car companies, always trying to reinvent the wheel! Thanks for your help!
Royson345
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- New Jersey
So just a quick update, I pulled the Cam Follower to find it in almost new condition. Im guessing whoever traded the car in replaced it right before getting rid of it. I did however pull the diverter valve to find it was bad so I ordered the new piston valve to replace it with. Also something to note, I found oil around the lower intercooler feeder pipe that goes up to the turbo. It was right around where the 2 pipes connect. I couldnt find an obvious leak anywhere so I will have to crawl under it tomorrow and look around some more.
One more thing, the car came with a CAI installed on it. Its a Neuspeed P-Flo red system. Has anyone had any experience with this CAI and does it perform well? I know its lkoud and has some crazy induction noise, some of the loudest Ive heard from a CAI system.
One more thing, the car came with a CAI installed on it. Its a Neuspeed P-Flo red system. Has anyone had any experience with this CAI and does it perform well? I know its lkoud and has some crazy induction noise, some of the loudest Ive heard from a CAI system.
