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The Correct approach to Sound Deadening

WestCoastDub

Ready to race!
Hello Everybody. So I'm planning on upgrading my "premium" stock setup to a nice SQ based build and was doing some research into sound deadening as I know this is a crucial component. I'm hoping people can chime in as to their opinions and thoughts to this post I found over at the 'tex:

There are three types of deadener products, each with different objectives and results.

1) CLD: constraining layer dampeners
These are a foil liner placed on top of a viscoelastic layer, typically butyl or asphalt based. The rubber base is to help absorb vibrations and the foil layer creates another layer of metal on top of the stock piece which you are applying it to. This has the effect of stiffening the panel, increasing the resonance frequency. It does not eliminate it and only marginally reduces it. It does NOT block sound.

This is your dynamat, fatmat, ss damplifier, peel & seal, etc products.

For the most part, these products are worthless. They ad extra weight without any real benefits. To use this type of product properly, you have to figure out which panels are vibrating AFTER the install and treat them reactivity. It's been found only covering about 25% of the surface area of the offending panel in the middle of the panel is the best trade off in install vs results.

Most people go crazy with this stuff and build up layers upon layers and covering every surface of the car. This is only a waste of money.

2) Foams
These are liners of, as one would expect, foam. Foams actually block noise transmission (road noise, outside noises, engine noise). However, because of the thicknesses required, they only really work on high frequencies. They work because they are very porous. Sound waves get trapped and scrambled in side the air cavities in the foam.

They come in two varieties, open cell and closed cell. Open cell works better because they allow more easy access for the sound waves to enter. The downfall of open cell is that they hold water. Closed cell work well, not as well, but reject water.

Foam is also what you use to prevent panel vibration noises (buzzing). You can use something as simple as weatherstripping from Walmart to isolate the buzzing pieces.

3) Mass layered barrier
This is your low-frequency sound blockers. They act to simply to add mass to block noise in the lower frequencies. The denser the better. Typically lead based mass-loaded-vinyl (MLV) is used because lead is extremely dense and has a fair amount of mass. The price isn't too bad either.

To effectively use MLV, you first apply a foam later, ~1/4", then lay the MLV over top, trying to cover as much surface area as possible. You can use duct tape or CLD strips to seal between cut pieces. Overlap MLV layers if necessary, or cut to fit to exact size.

Doing this creates what's called a floating barrier. Airborne sound waves get trapped between the metal of the car and the MLV, diffused by the foam in between. You do not want to add CLD to the top of the floating barrier. The fact that it's flexible further helps diffuse sound waves

When deadeneing the car, your first objective is to understand what type of noise you're trying to prevent. If it's airborne noises, your best bet is MLV and a floating barrier. IF it's structural noises (suspension clunking) or panel vibrations, target it with CLD.

How I recommend to deaden a car is first, pull the whole interior out. Target around the strut towers, wheel arches (where water sprays) and kick panels with CLD, not a lot. Test how much is needed while driving the car. Then under the head liner and a-pillars, put a layer of 1/4" open cell foam. In the center of the roof (if you don't have a sun roof) a single layer of CLD would be a good idea. Next, line the floors with MLV. Go as high up the fire-wall as you can and pull the dash if you can. Use 1/4" closed cell foam and 1lb/sqft lead based mlv. Do the same with the doors. Afterwords, install the interior back in the car. Fix any panel buzzing with weather stripping. Then while driving the car and the stereo blasting, check for panel vibrations that are producing sound. There probably won't be too many, if any. Treat as necessary with CLD. To go a step further, line behind all plastic panels with open cell foam matting (think upholstery foam cubes cut to size). Under the dash, put in a layer of open cell foam matting if you have room.

At this point, the car should be pretty damn quiet.

I was about to order a bunch of raammat CLD pieces until I read this and went to http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com

Anyone with experience using MLV or foam in the mkv? I want to do a set up with some CLD, foam, and MLV but I wasn't sure as to the thickness of foam to use. Can anyone that has done sound deadening in their door chime in as to how much space there is to work with?
 

soze

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County, CA
Car(s)
Something Else
Good read. I'm interested in just making the car quieter on the road overall. Would like to know what to use to achieve that.
 

WestCoastDub

Ready to race!
This site was also in the thread from vwvortex that I got that previous information from.

http://soundproofing.org/infopages/flooring.htm

I might end up purchasing from them because they're located very close to one of my friend's house. If I do, I'll write a little review and if people are interested, maybe organize a group buy. Hell yeah for not paying expensive shipping on heavy ass sound deadening materials.
 

ViRtUaLheretic

╭∩╮(︶__︶&#6
Location
KC MO
Car(s)
2009 VW GTI

WestCoastDub

Ready to race!
After reading your thread and speaking with Rick, the owner of RAAMaudio, I bought a pack of RAAMmat BXT II, and 3 running yards (42 square feet)of Ensolite peel and stick. Did you run into any issues getting the outer door skin off VirtualHeretic? I've read several DIY's and it doesn't seem that bad, it just makes me a little nervous.
 
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