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Old 05-17-2019, 02:53 AM   #1
S T
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Power lost after installing 3” piping

After installing a 3” pipes straight through, I’ve noticed a significant loss of power at low end, the powerband is at high rpms at all gears.
Can anyone advise if this is normal with 3”?


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Old 05-17-2019, 09:50 PM   #2
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3" exhaust? No that is not normal, what tune are you running?
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Old 05-17-2019, 11:22 PM   #3
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I’m stock tuned just bolt on upgrades atm.


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Old 05-18-2019, 01:26 AM   #4
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It seems you may have answered your own question with "I’m stock tuned, just bolt on upgrades atm". You are likely having false reports to the ECU now, where a tune would be designed to enhance performance now. May be time to tune it. I have seen where a tuner, even APR, says, in order; 1st) tune it...then intake and then exhaust.

I read an article in Eurotuner many years ago on the MK5 and tuning it. They installed an intake and then a DP...after they installed each one they dyno'd it and combined the dyno showed about a 4 HP gain, but they said it felt as though it had lost its pep. Then they added the tune, and it finally got its groove back.
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Old 05-18-2019, 01:30 AM   #5
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That’s what i was thinking too. Some say 2.5” has better flow and will regain back.
First thing ill do is to rebuild the pipes to 2.5” then we’ll see after that.


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Old 05-18-2019, 01:31 AM   #6
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I’m not sure if Racechip helps any cos i do have racechip installed. Its set on factory setting atm will try and play around with the maps.


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Old 05-18-2019, 01:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
It seems you may have answered your own question with "I’m stock tuned, just bolt on upgrades atm". You are likely having false reports to the ECU now, where a tune would be designed to enhance performance now. May be time to tune it. I have seen where a tuner, even APR, says, in order; 1st) tune it...then intake and then exhaust.


What stage tune wld u recommend? Im not planning to go k04. I know I might be ready to go stage 2 with my current mods, except hpfp upgrade?


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Old 05-18-2019, 01:44 AM   #8
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Yeah, the stock computer will always correct the fuel delivery based on incoming air. Recalibrated fuel timing & raise in boost to that management will make use of those supporting parts. I personally discovered 3in exhaust was overkill anyway.
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Old 05-18-2019, 01:47 AM   #9
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Yeah, the stock computer will always correct the fuel delivery based on incoming air. Recalibrated fuel timing & raise in boost to that management will make use of those supporting parts. I personally discovered 3in exhaust was overkill anyway.


I agree on that just matter of time for tune. Ain’t cheap either so a 2.5” wld be appropriate u think? 3” DP with 2.5” cat pipes


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Old 05-18-2019, 01:49 AM   #10
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Yeah, the stock computer will always correct the fuel delivery based on incoming air. Recalibrated fuel timing & raise in boost to that management will make use of those supporting parts. I personally discovered 3in exhaust was overkill anyway.


Even with a cai installed the stock ecu won’t recognize the increase air?


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Old 05-18-2019, 03:01 AM   #11
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Even with a cai installed the stock ecu won’t recognize the increase air?k
Ecu def recognizes, but the factory program corrects the fuel to maintain 14.7/1 ratio. Therefore it won’t gain anything really unless the ecu is recalibrated with higher performance program. Kinda what I was explaining before. Just throwing parts (which are generally supported mods) alone on computer control injection doesn’t automatically translate to gains in power just because of gains in noise. This has been proven on dynos for years, even on my old Evo 8, mk5 gli or this mk5 R32 currently, computer module re-tuning has made the significant impact, the bolt ons will promote more flow thru the head to go further.
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:03 AM   #12
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Ecu def recognizes, but the factory program corrects the fuel to maintain 14.7/1 ratio. Therefore it won’t gain anything really unless the ecu is recalibrated with higher performance program. Kinda what I was explaining before. Just throwing parts (which are generally supported mods) alone on computer control injection doesn’t automatically translate to gains in power just because of gains in noise. This has been proven on dynos for years, even on my old Evo 8, mk5 gli or this mk5 R32 currently, computer module re-tuning has made the significant impact, the bolt ons will promote more flow thru the head to go further.


Yea understood on that. Wondering if my Racechip wld make any difference?


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Old 05-18-2019, 03:58 AM   #13
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Never heard of that one. I used giac with switchable files, 91 & 100octane programs. But was still slow at the strip at mid to high 14’s cause of fwd traction losses off the line in first few gears. Awd R32 with giac ecu & United Motorsport haldex module flashes I ran best e.t. Of 14.2 1/4 mi. Also handles better at a circuit. Yer honestly better off going with well known reputable flash files, many documentaries on here of what worked best. Personally I think going over 300 on fwd is silly if you can’t disable the traction control & put it to the pavement.
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:04 AM   #14
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Never heard of that one. I used giac with switchable files, 91 & 100octane programs. But was still slow at the strip at mid to high 14’s cause of fwd traction losses off the line in first few gears. Awd R32 with giac ecu & United Motorsport haldex module flashes I ran best e.t. Of 14.2 1/4 mi. Also handles better at a circuit. Yer honestly better off going with well known reputable flash files, many documentaries on here of what worked best. Personally I think going over 300 on fwd is silly if you can’t disable the traction control & put it to the pavement.


Well yea fwd & awd makes a big difference. Racechip is basically a piggyback chip that manipulates the ecu, its a german product and pretty famous worldwide. It increases ho/torque by 20% and the results are there.
Yea over 300 for fwd is overkill IMO too, thats y i dont plan to go K04.


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Old 05-18-2019, 04:40 PM   #15
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What stage tune wld u recommend? Im not planning to go k04. I know I might be ready to go stage 2 with my current mods, except hpfp upgrade?


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Yeah, Stage 2 for GIAC and APR etc., w/o hpfp.

OK, which Race Chip do you have? S - RS - GTS? The 'S' I presume because it is advertised as a 20% gain. Trying to figure out the 5 settings is near impossible...why they make it so difficult to find what the 5 settings do? And better yet, what hardware requirements are suggested for those settings?
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Old 05-18-2019, 11:08 PM   #16
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Yeah, Stage 2 for GIAC and APR etc., w/o hpfp.



OK, which Race Chip do you have? S - RS - GTS? The 'S' I presume because it is advertised as a 20% gain. Trying to figure out the 5 settings is near impossible...why they make it so difficult to find what the 5 settings do? And better yet, what hardware requirements are suggested for those settings?


Yea got the “S” version to give it a try. Honestly you don’t feel that much of a difference between settings although there is slightly. Supposedly 5 is the highest mode. They never advertised about hardware requirements like stage 2 does saying that other versions have higher output %. Never thought of that.


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Old 05-19-2019, 01:35 AM   #17
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Over years of experience, many engine management files either turbo or n/a will deliver similar results of each other with variance of support parts added to help the timing alterations perform better. If one company claims their flash performs “so much better” then the other guys, often it’s bullshit, and it will put the same numbers as competitive file. Or they wrote a really aggressive file that may not be safe for daily driving.
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Old 05-19-2019, 01:45 AM   #18
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Over years of experience, many engine management files either turbo or n/a will deliver similar results of each other with variance of support parts added to help the timing alterations perform better. If one company claims their flash performs “so much better” then the other guys, often it’s bullshit, and it will put the same numbers as competitive file. Or they wrote a really aggressive file that may not be safe for daily driving.


I agree on that statement and i was skeptical at first cos many other piggybacks companies are bs. Somehow racechip caught my attention after several research about it. It doesn’t just improve hp/tq it actually claims to reduce fuel consumption due to the less gear change. IMHO i see their goals and it does result in fuel economy. After all, Racechip is not meant to over do what individual engine is capable of, only to its maximum stock capabilities. Their goal is to (yes increase hp/tq) and reduce fuel consumption on a daily drive. Even though with those increased power its not overly and still produce a better driving experience, not racing unless chip GTS. But for the higher versions of the chip that goes up to 50% increase thats abit too much without stressing the engine and components IMO.


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Old 05-19-2019, 01:48 AM   #19
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Over years of experience, many engine management files either turbo or n/a will deliver similar results of each other with variance of support parts added to help the timing alterations perform better. If one company claims their flash performs “so much better” then the other guys, often it’s bullshit, and it will put the same numbers as competitive file. Or they wrote a really aggressive file that may not be safe for daily driving.


I’ve yet to choose which tune companies to opt for when i am ready. There’s quite a few now even some new ones. Obviously APR being one of the first on the market. I just found out about ATM tuning which is easy available in my country.


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Old 05-20-2019, 01:56 AM   #20
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Yea got the “S” version to give it a try. Honestly you don’t feel that much of a difference between settings although there is slightly. Supposedly 5 is the highest mode. They never advertised about hardware requirements like stage 2 does saying that other versions have higher output %. Never thought of that.


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I spent a good amount of time looking for that info on what the five settings do and for what hardware requirements are required to get the best performance with their tune and came up empty. I wish they would state something on their site or at least provide it to their customers when purchased. I suppose you could email/message them so to find out what hardware their tune is designed to run optimally...and which of those five settings one should select and when. Perhaps their tune is designed for everything being stock...iono
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Old 05-20-2019, 02:02 AM   #21
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I’ve yet to choose which tune companies to opt for when i am ready. There’s quite a few now even some new ones. Obviously APR being one of the first on the market. I just found out about ATM tuning which is easy available in my country.


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What ever is available and has some sort of good track record and longevity is fine. You don't want a tune from some place that will shut down soon after you get their tune...trust me, I have one of those. I spent $700 usd and I don't even use their tune because they shut down before I got it dialed in and working well. So, Eurodyne is another option if living where there aren't many choices or dealers to load a tune, because you load their tune yourself. I believe with REVO you can now load tunes yourself...there may be others allowing this by now.
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Old 05-28-2019, 05:59 AM   #22
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What ever is available and has some sort of good track record and longevity is fine. You don't want a tune from some place that will shut down soon after you get their tune...trust me, I have one of those. I spent $700 usd and I don't even use their tune because they shut down before I got it dialed in and working well. So, Eurodyne is another option if living where there aren't many choices or dealers to load a tune, because you load their tune yourself. I believe with REVO you can now load tunes yourself...there may be others allowing this by now.


Ok now im having another small issue, car is bounce revving at idle. This only happened after I installed a new exhaust setup last week. I sense its some vacuum leak but i double chked everything upon completion. My suspicion is the 02 sensor but cant be sure. Maf is fine, coil packs & plugs are new. No codes were thrown at me though. I had this similar issue a while ago and it turned out to be brittle brake booster hoses which I replaced and car was back to normal.

Any idea?


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