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Sonny's Conservative Build (Debt friendly)

Sonnytron

Ready to race!
Location
Cupertino, CA
Here's my baby:






My purchase experience: She had 59,300 +/- 80 miles when I picked her up at Carmax for $13,995 at a very good interest rate with a low down. I picked up gap insurance and drove her home that day. She's had zero modifications and a picture perfect VW dealership only maintenance history which includes inspections at every oil change. She was a lease vehicle which explains the lack of mods. Zero packages and came with Sirius XM pre-installed. Took her to a tuning shop and she passed all inspections. Of course they recommend I get the valves clean but my cam follower looks good. He said it looks like it's only been driven 15,000 miles but he recommends I replace it before or at my next oil change.

That being said, I don't like the idea that a Focus ST (in stock trim) or a bolt-on SI would put a beating on me. I also don't like having "gaps" in the performance of this car. In a straight line and from a roll, she's quite tough. But braking could be better, so could grip and there's a little power missing.

So here's my build plans:
Final product:
Performance - Ebay Downpipe, Pipercross, Stage 2 Tune
Suspension - DG Springs plus bushings, rear sway bar
Brakes - RedStuff, RBF660
Grip - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric
"For good measure" - Valve cleaning, Cam Follower, DV+, catch can

The goal is to get this entire build done for under $1500 or as close to $1000 as I can. I will be scouring for used springs/DP and waiting for a tune deal. Right now Revo is $200 off so I might go that route.

The performance goal is high 13's and the ability to beat cars like BRZ, FiST/FoST on a road course without brake fade issues.

The aesthetics: I'll either pick up the EONON unit or an RNS 315, window tinting and all weather mats. That's as far as aesthetics go. And I won't be doing anything to the exterior. I love the way this car looks, why change it?

I'll also be breaking this up into sections: Phase 1, Phase 2, Phase 3, etc. The first phase will obviously include the valve cleaning and cam follower. But beyond that I have no idea which I should incorporate. Ideally they'd have a "cost step" so each step would ideally cost around $350-450 so I can be done in 3 paychecks. Any suggestions on modifying the build is welcome. Please note that I don't want to completely build any aspect of this car. I would be 100% happy with 230-235 wheel horsepower and better-than-stock braking and grip. Ideally I'd want the car to perform close to a stock MK7. But I do welcome suggestions for alternatives to the parts I chose or better ways to spend on a particular category.
 

Strieg

Go Kart Champion
Location
Central Cali
Car(s)
2008 GTI BPY
Honestly I've been working on my car for the past couple months, I think it's going to be rough to meet that kind of budget. I know you can get a lot of stuff gently used for a great price- but tunes aren't cheap, and I don't think you can get them used... I'm hoping your able to meet your budget though! Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

phil

becausephilchow
Location
Hong Kong
Car(s)
2009 VW R32
So here's my build plans:
Final product:
Performance - Ebay Downpipe, Pipercross, Stage 2 Tune
Suspension - DG Springs plus bushings, rear sway bar
Brakes - RedStuff, RBF660
Grip - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric
"For good measure" - Valve cleaning, Cam Follower, DV+, catch can

eBay Downpipe - $170.00 from eBay IIRC. If you can find a used one, it might be about $100.00. Install is a bit of a hassle, I'd reckon at least about $130.00 to do a Downpipe, even more if your bolts are rusted on and what-not.

Pipercross - To be honest, you don't really "need" a Pipercross Filter. You could just get a K&N, or anything to be honest. You won't see much of a performance increase on these cars with an intake.

Stage 2 Tune - I don't remember how much it is, but they're all very similar. If REVO has $200 off, then I would go with REVO. I believe DriverMotorsport and UnitedMotorsport usually has some discounts, so I could recommend them too. Whatever is cheapest is probably best for you.

DM is $475.00 for a Tune.

Drive Gear Springs - They're cheap. You can get Springs used for usually around $100.00 or So. It's the installation and Alignment that will get you. I reckon you'll spend about $200 on the low end just for Install and Alignment.

So right away, you're already at $1,075.00.

I'd skimp on the bushings, yes they make ad ifference, yes they're not expensive, but the install on bushings is a PITA, and you'll be charged accordingly.

RBF660, if you're not tracking, I wouldn't recommend it. It has a very high boiling point, but it also means you should be changing it relatively often. MOTUL DOT 5.1 hsould be enough for you on the street, or if you really want, RBF600. Not to mention, RBF660 isn't exactly "Cheap", since you're on a budget.

EBC RedStuff, It's not bad either. However, I believe Hawk HPS are cheaper, and should perform as least as good if not better. I assume you'll want Front and Rear, which should put pads at about $200ish, and then labour.

GoodYear F1 Assymetrics...you can get better for a cheaper price. F1s aren't cheap if I remember correctly. You could go with a Hankook V12 Evo 2, good treadwear, decent grip. Comparable to the F1s for sure. Good tires are definitely in the $600~ Range for a set of 225/40/18, and you'll need them installed.

Cam Follow isn't too expensive. Labour to put it in shouldn't be too bad, but I would say it's about $100 all said and done.

Valve Cleanings are a bitch, and not cheap. Most places won't even do it for any less than $200 I would say, with $250 being close to a "cheap" price.

DV, you can get an OEM DV, the newest revision. They go for somewhere around $60, and install I would reckon another $40 or so maybe.

Catch Cans...easy install, but it still costs money. I reckon at least $100 for a used one.

So all in all, I'd say you're looking somewhere closer $2,500.00 to be honest, for everything all said and done.

Maybe $2000, if you cna get cheaper parts, and cheaper labour, but, yeah, :thumbsup:
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
USA
Car(s)
MK 6 GolfR
Here's my baby:


My purchase experience: She had 59,300 +/- 80 miles when I picked her up at Carmax for $13,995 at a very good interest rate with a low down. I picked up gap insurance and drove her home that day. She's had zero modifications and a picture perfect VW dealership only maintenance history which includes inspections at every oil change. She was a lease vehicle which explains the lack of mods. Zero packages and came with Sirius XM pre-installed. Took her to a tuning shop and she passed all inspections. Of course they recommend I get the valves clean but my cam follower looks good. He said it looks like it's only been driven 15,000 miles but he recommends I replace it before or at my next oil change.

That being said, I don't like the idea that a Focus ST (in stock trim) or a bolt-on SI would put a beating on me. I also don't like having "gaps" in the performance of this car. In a straight line and from a roll, she's quite tough. But braking could be better, so could grip and there's a little power missing.

So here's my build plans:
Final product:
Performance - Ebay Downpipe, Pipercross, Stage 2 Tune
Suspension - DG Springs plus bushings, rear sway bar
Brakes - RedStuff, RBF660
Grip - Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric
"For good measure" - Valve cleaning, Cam Follower, DV+, catch can

The goal is to get this entire build done for under $1500 or as close to $1000 as I can. I will be scouring for used springs/DP and waiting for a tune deal. Right now Revo is $200 off so I might go that route.

The performance goal is high 13's and the ability to beat cars like BRZ, FiST/FoST on a road course without brake fade issues.

The aesthetics: I'll either pick up the EONON unit or an RNS 315, window tinting and all weather mats. That's as far as aesthetics go. And I won't be doing anything to the exterior. I love the way this car looks, why change it?

I'll also be breaking this up into sections: Phase 1, Phase 2, Phase 3, etc. The first phase will obviously include the valve cleaning and cam follower. But beyond that I have no idea which I should incorporate. Ideally they'd have a "cost step" so each step would ideally cost around $350-450 so I can be done in 3 paychecks. Any suggestions on modifying the build is welcome. Please note that I don't want to completely build any aspect of this car. I would be 100% happy with 230-235 wheel horsepower and better-than-stock braking and grip. Ideally I'd want the car to perform close to a stock MK7. But I do welcome suggestions for alternatives to the parts I chose or better ways to spend on a particular category.

Since you are in California be mindful of just how you are going to smog the car. Choosing the right tune, saving your stock downpipe/cat and having either stock intake or one of the CARB approved intakes will be important.

I chose DriverMotorsport tune because it did not mess with O2 readiness and also because the tune is aggresive, used stock downpipe/cat along with a CARB approved intake (neuspeed and K&N both sell a CARB approved intake). It is a little work to swap but foolproof.
 

Sonnytron

Ready to race!
Location
Cupertino, CA
eBay Downpipe - $170.00 from eBay IIRC. If you can find a used one, it might be about $100.00. Install is a bit of a hassle, I'd reckon at least about $130.00 to do a Downpipe, even more if your bolts are rusted on and what-not.

Pipercross - To be honest, you don't really "need" a Pipercross Filter. You could just get a K&N, or anything to be honest. You won't see much of a performance increase on these cars with an intake.

Stage 2 Tune - I don't remember how much it is, but they're all very similar. If REVO has $200 off, then I would go with REVO. I believe DriverMotorsport and UnitedMotorsport usually has some discounts, so I could recommend them too. Whatever is cheapest is probably best for you.

DM is $475.00 for a Tune.

Drive Gear Springs - They're cheap. You can get Springs used for usually around $100.00 or So. It's the installation and Alignment that will get you. I reckon you'll spend about $200 on the low end just for Install and Alignment.

So right away, you're already at $1,075.00.

I'd skimp on the bushings, yes they make ad ifference, yes they're not expensive, but the install on bushings is a PITA, and you'll be charged accordingly.

RBF660, if you're not tracking, I wouldn't recommend it. It has a very high boiling point, but it also means you should be changing it relatively often. MOTUL DOT 5.1 hsould be enough for you on the street, or if you really want, RBF600. Not to mention, RBF660 isn't exactly "Cheap", since you're on a budget.

EBC RedStuff, It's not bad either. However, I believe Hawk HPS are cheaper, and should perform as least as good if not better. I assume you'll want Front and Rear, which should put pads at about $200ish, and then labour.

GoodYear F1 Assymetrics...you can get better for a cheaper price. F1s aren't cheap if I remember correctly. You could go with a Hankook V12 Evo 2, good treadwear, decent grip. Comparable to the F1s for sure. Good tires are definitely in the $600~ Range for a set of 225/40/18, and you'll need them installed.

Cam Follow isn't too expensive. Labour to put it in shouldn't be too bad, but I would say it's about $100 all said and done.

Valve Cleanings are a bitch, and not cheap. Most places won't even do it for any less than $200 I would say, with $250 being close to a "cheap" price.

DV, you can get an OEM DV, the newest revision. They go for somewhere around $60, and install I would reckon another $40 or so maybe.

Catch Cans...easy install, but it still costs money. I reckon at least $100 for a used one.

So all in all, I'd say you're looking somewhere closer $2,500.00 to be honest, for everything all said and done.

Maybe $2000, if you cna get cheaper parts, and cheaper labour, but, yeah, :thumbsup:

Thanks for the detailed post.

1) I estimated about $130 for the manifold, so that's fine. Install is DIY. Is there part numbers for the bolts and stuff that I would need? I know $10 for the turbo gasket.

2) I've found a few Pipercross/ITG for $50 new and I could probably pick up a used one since they're reusable. I know some people say there's gains, some people say there aren't. I figure the tune decides the gains but I'd rather be on the side of "if it breathes better, I have it anyway". Plus I save on not having to replace the paper filter.

3) I'm not paying more than $400 for a tune regardless of the supplier. Revo has it on sale for $300 and as far as I'm concerned, there's only so many GTI MK5's on the market looking for a tune. There's no way tunes are selling as "hot" as they were back when the MK5/MK6 first released. Now with people buying up FiST's and FoST's and BRZ's, I feel like there's bargaining power for the Stg2 tune. At this point, I'm considering skipping the DP/Intake and just going Stage 1 and calling it a day but either way, I won't pay more than $400 for the tune and I'm willing to wait for it.

4) Why would it be $200 on the low end? Is there some complication to VW alignment I'm not aware of? I was going to rent the spring compressor from Autozone, install the springs myself (and replace the bolts with the spring install kit) and then have a local shop do my alignment afterward. I might wait until I do the tires so I can get it aligned after springs and tires. A local shop only charges me $64.99 to do alignment and they have 4.5 stars on Yelp. Is there a reason it would cost more after performance springs installed? They did a pretty good job on my last car after a car accident. I was going to assume $185 for springs installed.

5) Duly noted. I'll skip the bushings. I should be fine on a tamely driven car with just springs + install hardware? Will the struts wear fast? I'm going to get Bilstein in the future (Not part of this budget) but I'm hoping the struts can last at least 6 more months on spirited driving before I cross that bridge.

6) Also duly noted. I'll go with RBF600.

7) I'm probably going with fronts only as most braking is performed by fronts. But I might adjust my scope for this. I've found RedStuff cheaper than HPS but if HPS are cheaper, I'll go with those. For these I'd be installing myself.

8) I have 17's, should I oversize? Also, the F1's are on sale at Tirerack for $109 a piece in 17. The V12's are pricier per tire even including rebate. (And the F1's have a rebate too)

9-12) Again, I'm DIY on Cam Follower so maybe it's only the price of the kit? $50+ tax/shipping. I'm also DIY on valve cleaning. I have a four day weekend in October that I'll be taking advantage of, along with a full tool box at my work office (we're engineers). I'd be doing the DV at the same time. Do you think I'll have the newest revision already? I have a 2008 manufactured in January 2008. Also I'm going to pick up the injector kit for all four just in case I have the worst luck ever and all four injectors come off. I won't be purchasing the tool. I've never heard of anyone having an injector issue without using the tool so I'm going to just install them myself. How can I check my DV revision?

Maybe I should've stated early on that I'll be installing everything myself with the exception of: alignment, tires and tune. I can't install those myself so I'd be looking for a good deal on them.

I've rethought my scope a bit and assuming worst case scenario here's what I'm debating:
Stage 1, no downpipe or filter. The power upgrade from Stage 1 is enough to get rid of drivetrain loss and another 15 horsepower on top of that. I'm happy with 250 crank horsepower because that puts me in range of the WRX I originally wanted. (Which I was never going to modify) $475

DG springs with installation kit - Installed by me. $125.00

Valve cleaning, cam follower and DV replacement - Installed by me. $150.00

RedStuff/HPS front+rear and RBF600 (Does this still need to be replaced often?) - $225.00

Tires - I'm leaving the model blank but around $110-135 a piece, plus installation and alignment. Looking for performance all-season because I'm on a budget. Eagle F1's have a 45,000 mile warranty and they cover track days. $645.00 including alignment and installation.

This puts me at $1620 and that's assuming I pay $475 for my tune (which isn't likely at all, I'd be fishing for a HUGE bargain) and I pay retail out the door prices for the tires + installation + alignment. I also assumed I would need the $60 for the new DV, $50 for the cam follower and another $40 in random nuts/screws/cleaning materials. This would give me approximately 245 horsepower, better braking and handling and my valves and fuel pump are for the most part safe. And it leaves me $400 from my bonus left over to get the windows tinted and throw in an EONON head unit. :)

Oh and yes I'll be autocrossing and occasionally hitting up a real track like Thunder Hill or Sonoma Raceway. How often would I have to change out RBF 600 if I'm driving in city limits?
 

Austin_hull

Für Die Liebe Des Autos
Location
Virginia
Car(s)
MK5 TR GTI REVO// +

Perpetuus

Data Encryption
Location
In my garage
If you are autocrossing, be prepared to spend alot more money on wear and tear items.

Brake pads, rotors, brake fluid, engine oil, and tires are things you cannot escape.
 

Sonnytron

Ready to race!
Location
Cupertino, CA
If you are autocrossing, be prepared to spend alot more money on wear and tear items.

Brake pads, rotors, brake fluid, engine oil, and tires are things you cannot escape.

I'm not an idiot lol. The build itself is gonna be cheap but I know the expenses of track days. I planned on swapping fluids and brakes after every track event. The track event itself is a $199 buy in usually, sometimes cheaper. But there's no sense in spending an arm and a leg on parts you won't be replacing at every event.
 

Sonnytron

Ready to race!
Location
Cupertino, CA
So my first online purchase is underway:
1x INA 06D109309C
1x 10 mm triple square
1x 8 mm triple square
2x 10 mm 1.5 x 120 bolts

I plan on picking up the remaining things I need from a combination of Home Depot and Harbor Freight. I already have a really nice torx set (ratchet driven screw driver set) and a really nice socket set from Cratsman, plus a jack and jack stands. I also have an oil tray, some shop rags.

When I worked on my Taurus, I used cheap tools because I had no emotional attachment to the car. For this, I plan on going all out. So I'll be getting some good lighting, a box of latex gloves, hose clamps and things like that. Every DIY I've seen so far doesn't use the injector seal kit so I'm going to take my chances without it. If I lose an O-ring, I'll just have to order one and deal with it. But I don't dig the "worst case scenario" type of planning. I think it's a huger waste of money to order a kit "in case things go wrong" and having to deal with returning it or selling it after the fact when things go fine.

My plan is to do the valve cleaning, take pictures before and after of the process (store in my portfolio too for maintenance history) and then as I'm re-assembling, replace the cam follower and take pictures of it worn down.
 

flat tire

Go Kart Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
Electric + 135i
Just a note, auto-x pads and tires (if you're going all out with a top auto-X tire) are different from what you'd want to use on a track day. On auto-X you won't get much heat into the brakes so you want a pad that grabs well cold. Same with the tires, the tread will heat up but the inside of the tire will generally stay relatively cool on an auto-x run. On a track you want brakes that still work well when very hot (most streetable pads don't) and tires that don't go off too early. The stock rotors are fine for track duty but you will NEED a good pad to go with your RBF600 unless you want to lose the brakes. I don't know how often you need to change that fluid but surely the manufacturer does so ask them. The reason you want to change some performance fluids more often is they are extra hygroscopic which spells disaster on the track when you boil the water they've absorbed but shouldn't be an issue at all on the street unless you drive like a maniac and are regularly braking from well over 100 MPH. Just change before your events if worried.

Auto-x alone won't abuse much more than your tires unless you're running something really sticky (not DOT approved).
 

Sonnytron

Ready to race!
Location
Cupertino, CA
From what I understand, the tires I'm picking are covered by the warranty even with the occasional track day, as long as I properly rotate them during ownership. So with receipt and rotation invoices, even burning them up with 3~4 track days will be covered. This is IF I go with the Eagle F1's. I don't know how Sport Comp 2 works in this regard but I've read online that a writer tracked F1's and asked about warranty and they said they would replace them up to 45,000 miles regardless of track use.
 

Sonnytron

Ready to race!
Location
Cupertino, CA
Update:
Placed an order with FCP Euro for: Cam follower, M10 M8 triple square socket and a WK69 fuel filter.
Placed an order with DoubleApex for: Auxiliary connection with SAT delete

Made an appointment with a local tinting shop: Doors, rears and hatch for $120 35% all around

I'm going to tackle the valve cleaning as a DIY since my rental has a garage and I'm leaving October 6th so I need to take advantage of it. I decided to do all of this pending/due maintenance now rather than get a tune and drive it hard on old plugs, original fuel filter and cam follower with dirty valves.

Also, big props to Chris from Double Apex regarding questions about the kit and quick shipping. From the time I answered questions until I was confident to order was less than a few hours of correspondence and he shipped out quickly.

Phase 1 is looking like: Cam Follower, Valve cleaning, Spark Plugs, Fuel filter, remaining 60k service, Window Tinting and Auxiliary port install.

Phase 2 will be the tune. :)

I'm also going to post pictures and thoughts on the plugs, cam follower and valve cleaning process so people can get an idea of what it's like to do this job on a modestly driven former lease car after 6 years and with 100% OEM engine bay.
 
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