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Axle Stretch Bolts

rich10

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
las vegas
So I goto the dealer to get some replacement stretch bolts for the transmission end of the axle on the drivers side. I order up 6. Then the parts guy tells me that they aren't stretch bolts. Everywhere I've read for DIY's, forums here and there, etc talk about them being stretch bolts and they should be replaced. Can anyone really confirm or deny this statement? He even went so far as to say that they didn't need to be replaced with new ones. They were cheap enough so that's not an issue.
Oh, I've read some just replace the axle. Have you had any experience with non-OEM/EMPI/OPparts as replacements for stock GTIs?
 

josein06gli

GLI OWNER
Location
San Diego, Ca
Car(s)
VW Jetta GLI
Axle bolts are definitely stretch bolts. They're like 180ft lbs and then add 1/4 turn and done.

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josein06gli

GLI OWNER
Location
San Diego, Ca
Car(s)
VW Jetta GLI
No? I replace the axle ones every time

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rich10

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
las vegas
I suppose it wouldn't hurt to replace them.
I was just shocked when the vw parts guy told me they weren't stretch bolts...
 

Fred930

Scirocco MK II Track Car
Location
Wisconsin
Guess I'm too dumb to know what you're talking about. Are you worried about the 6 triple square bolts that hold the axle (CV) to the transmission hub? Or are you replacing the axle nut?

If josein06gli is cranking those little M8 triple square bolts to 180 ft-lbs, then it's no wonder he has to replace them. But maybe you are confusing it with the big axle nut, which probably does have a spec that high (and that nut might be a locking type that should be replaced each time).

But unless you buggered up the head (you did use a triple square, not hex, driver - right?), then I don't think they need to be replaced. On the other hand, there's sure nothing wrong with using new clean hardware. Just be sure to torque them to the correct spec (and that sure isn't 180 ft-lbs).
 

josein06gli

GLI OWNER
Location
San Diego, Ca
Car(s)
VW Jetta GLI
No way I'm cracking the axle bolts to 180 they would break in half. I'm talking about the axle bolt. The one that holds the axle to the hub. Not the end of the axle to the tranny.

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Fred930

Scirocco MK II Track Car
Location
Wisconsin
In his original post, rich10 said he ordered 6 bolts from the Dealer - so I'm pretty sure he was talking about the axle (CV) bolts - not the hub bolt (it's a nut on my old Scirocco race car - and I've had that one come loose - so it might benefit from a new one each time).

Anyway, as far as I know CV bolts can be reused and are torqued to a much lower spec. But if the head is messed up even a little bit (which is easy to do if they are full of road grime and the bit slips), then put in new ones.
 

josein06gli

GLI OWNER
Location
San Diego, Ca
Car(s)
VW Jetta GLI
The 6 bolts on the inside of the axle to mount it to the tranny with cages I also replace whenever I do a cv boot. I'm particular like that. Those can be re-used, but we all know when a cv boot goes grease goes everywhere so I replace them cuz I don't wanna clean those too

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rich10

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
las vegas
Does anyone know the torque specs on the 6 bolts going to the tranny?
For clarification, this is for a outer boot replacement on the drivers side.
 

langer

i fix teefs
Location
Baltimore
Does anyone know the torque specs on the 6 bolts going to the tranny?
For clarification, this is for a outer boot replacement on the drivers side.

I just cranked 'em down. Lol. I couldn't fit my torque wrench in that small spot. If the car was on a lift, different story. God help me if they ever fail due to under/over torquing.
 
Last edited:

PA_Dubber

New member
Location
Bethlehem, PA
Here's a screen shot of what the Bentley manual says. I have another question about this, though. In the attached picture, you can see the torque differences between the hex bolt and 12-point bolt. The hex head calls for 148 ft-lb stage 1 (while wheel is off the ground) and 1/2 turn stage 2 (wheel on the ground). The 12-point calls for 52 ft-lb stage 1 and 1/4 turn stage 2. I have the 12-point and I'm currently doing a bearing job, why the huge difference in torque? I wanna make sure I'm doing things right and I normally wouldn't question the Bentley manual but the difference in the torque specs between the 2 bolt head styles is striking to me. Anyone have any input?
 

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