GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

Power lost after installing 3” piping

S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
Yeah, Stage 2 for GIAC and APR etc., w/o hpfp.



OK, which Race Chip do you have? S - RS - GTS? The 'S' I presume because it is advertised as a 20% gain. Trying to figure out the 5 settings is near impossible...why they make it so difficult to find what the 5 settings do? And better yet, what hardware requirements are suggested for those settings?
Click to expand...



Yea got the “S” version to give it a try. Honestly you don’t feel that much of a difference between settings although there is slightly. Supposedly 5 is the highest mode. They never advertised about hardware requirements like stage 2 does saying that other versions have higher output %. Never thought of that.


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golfballer78

golfballer78

Ready to race!
Location
southbay CA.
Car(s)
08' R32 dsg
Over years of experience, many engine management files either turbo or n/a will deliver similar results of each other with variance of support parts added to help the timing alterations perform better. If one company claims their flash performs “so much better” then the other guys, often it’s bullshit, and it will put the same numbers as competitive file. Or they wrote a really aggressive file that may not be safe for daily driving.
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
golfballer78 said:
Over years of experience, many engine management files either turbo or n/a will deliver similar results of each other with variance of support parts added to help the timing alterations perform better. If one company claims their flash performs “so much better” then the other guys, often it’s bullshit, and it will put the same numbers as competitive file. Or they wrote a really aggressive file that may not be safe for daily driving.
Click to expand...



I agree on that statement and i was skeptical at first cos many other piggybacks companies are bs. Somehow racechip caught my attention after several research about it. It doesn’t just improve hp/tq it actually claims to reduce fuel consumption due to the less gear change. IMHO i see their goals and it does result in fuel economy. After all, Racechip is not meant to over do what individual engine is capable of, only to its maximum stock capabilities. Their goal is to (yes increase hp/tq) and reduce fuel consumption on a daily drive. Even though with those increased power its not overly and still produce a better driving experience, not racing unless chip GTS. But for the higher versions of the chip that goes up to 50% increase thats abit too much without stressing the engine and components IMO.


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S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
golfballer78 said:
Over years of experience, many engine management files either turbo or n/a will deliver similar results of each other with variance of support parts added to help the timing alterations perform better. If one company claims their flash performs “so much better” then the other guys, often it’s bullshit, and it will put the same numbers as competitive file. Or they wrote a really aggressive file that may not be safe for daily driving.
Click to expand...



I’ve yet to choose which tune companies to opt for when i am ready. There’s quite a few now even some new ones. Obviously APR being one of the first on the market. I just found out about ATM tuning which is easy available in my country.


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ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
S T said:
Yea got the “S” version to give it a try. Honestly you don’t feel that much of a difference between settings although there is slightly. Supposedly 5 is the highest mode. They never advertised about hardware requirements like stage 2 does saying that other versions have higher output %. Never thought of that.


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Click to expand...
I spent a good amount of time looking for that info on what the five settings do and for what hardware requirements are required to get the best performance with their tune and came up empty. I wish they would state something on their site or at least provide it to their customers when purchased. I suppose you could email/message them so to find out what hardware their tune is designed to run optimally...and which of those five settings one should select and when. Perhaps their tune is designed for everything being stock...iono :iono:
 
ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
S T said:
I’ve yet to choose which tune companies to opt for when i am ready. There’s quite a few now even some new ones. Obviously APR being one of the first on the market. I just found out about ATM tuning which is easy available in my country.


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Click to expand...
What ever is available and has some sort of good track record and longevity is fine. You don't want a tune from some place that will shut down soon after you get their tune...trust me, I have one of those. I spent $700 usd and I don't even use their tune because they shut down before I got it dialed in and working well. So, Eurodyne is another option if living where there aren't many choices or dealers to load a tune, because you load their tune yourself. I believe with REVO you can now load tunes yourself...there may be others allowing this by now.
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
What ever is available and has some sort of good track record and longevity is fine. You don't want a tune from some place that will shut down soon after you get their tune...trust me, I have one of those. I spent $700 usd and I don't even use their tune because they shut down before I got it dialed in and working well. So, Eurodyne is another option if living where there aren't many choices or dealers to load a tune, because you load their tune yourself. I believe with REVO you can now load tunes yourself...there may be others allowing this by now.
Click to expand...



Ok now im having another small issue, car is bounce revving at idle. This only happened after I installed a new exhaust setup last week. I sense its some vacuum leak but i double chked everything upon completion. My suspicion is the 02 sensor but cant be sure. Maf is fine, coil packs & plugs are new. No codes were thrown at me though. I had this similar issue a while ago and it turned out to be brittle brake booster hoses which I replaced and car was back to normal.

Any idea?


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Cjpolokid

Cjpolokid

Ready to race!
Location
New York
S T said:
Ok now im having another small issue, car is bounce revving at idle. This only happened after I installed a new exhaust setup last week. I sense its some vacuum leak but i double chked everything upon completion. My suspicion is the 02 sensor but cant be sure. Maf is fine, coil packs & plugs are new. No codes were thrown at me though. I had this similar issue a while ago and it turned out to be brittle brake booster hoses which I replaced and car was back to normal.

Any idea?


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Click to expand...



Check the diver valves cause the downpipe increased flow so you might have blew out ur diver valve


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S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
Cjpolokid said:
Check the diver valves cause the downpipe increased flow so you might have blew out ur diver valve


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Click to expand...



I just opened it other day and was fine, plus it’s attached to gfb+.


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ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
S T said:
Ok now im having another small issue, car is bounce revving at idle. This only happened after I installed a new exhaust setup last week. I sense its some vacuum leak but i double chked everything upon completion. My suspicion is the 02 sensor but cant be sure. Maf is fine, coil packs & plugs are new. No codes were thrown at me though. I had this similar issue a while ago and it turned out to be brittle brake booster hoses which I replaced and car was back to normal.

Any idea?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Yes, bouncy/lumpy idle is most likely mechanical rather than electrical. Would either be a leak in vacuum or PCV tubing, intake manifold, or a seal. But can also be a failed PCV.

So, do you have Ross-Tech's vcds or other diagnostic tool? How do you know the MAF is fine? How's your LTFT additive look when you reset it?

Anyway, if you unplug the MAF and the idle returns to running smoothly...you have a leak
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
Yes, bouncy/lumpy idle is most likely mechanical rather than electrical. Would either be a leak in vacuum or PCV tubing, intake manifold, or a seal. But can also be a failed PCV.



So, do you have Ross-Tech's vcds or other diagnostic tool? How do you know the MAF is fine? How's your LTFT additive look when you reset it?



Anyway, if you unplug the MAF and the idle returns to running smoothly...you have a leak
Click to expand...



Did the pcv chk test, dipstick test, oil cap test, maf test all seems ok. Only thing i can think of is the brake booster (one connected to the wall) cos thats the only hose I replaced during the exhaust installation. The brakes did seem hard at first and gradually soften over time. I’ve yet to chk the brake booster, its a pain to reach to need to remove my CAI.
I used my obd2 device, i know it won’t read in depth as vcds etc. that’s my only access for now. I do hope it the brake booster cos it was a pain to replace and install.


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S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
Yes, bouncy/lumpy idle is most likely mechanical rather than electrical. Would either be a leak in vacuum or PCV tubing, intake manifold, or a seal. But can also be a failed PCV.



So, do you have Ross-Tech's vcds or other diagnostic tool? How do you know the MAF is fine? How's your LTFT additive look when you reset it?



Anyway, if you unplug the MAF and the idle returns to running smoothly...you have a leak
Click to expand...



Found the culprit, its a broken brake hose that’s connected to the brake booster. It’s covered in the oem heat shield so couldn’t see until I pulled it out. Need to replace the long plastic hose that runs across the wall to connect to the brake booster.


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