GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

CRC GDI cleaner

gti2slow

gti2slow

Go Kart Champion
Location
NH
I've used CRC GDI stuff as well as Seafoam annually using a spray nozzle through the IAT port. I have had good results when done on an engine at operating temperature and with a heatsoak. I have not saved any borescope shots after my last cleaning but this dudes video really is similar to my results (My buildup was not nearly as bad, I have no buildup as I clean every year)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_giqO78tLY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48JSlXlvMC0

Thought I would share as this for anyone interested in what a chemical clean can do. It wont get the engine spotless but will melt off any of the chunky buildup.
 
ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
I see more valve stem and guide just using 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA...

before;


after:


...apologies for the cheap $10 bore-scope
 
gti2slow

gti2slow

Go Kart Champion
Location
NH
golfballer78 said:
Do you actually see the valves afterwards? Many times the chem/spray stuff doesn’t totally work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it cleans up pretty good. the key is it needs done while the engine is warm to work.
 
ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
UberDSG said:
any more info on the method? do you spray into the manifold as well or just in fuel tank?
Click to expand...
Yes, I have a diy vid on my Utube channel...I make my own solution with 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA and use a pressure sprayer through the IAT sensor port. Additives in the fuel tank do nothing for valve build-up because direct injection sprays directly into the combustion chamber, so nothing is passing the intake valves with direct injection. All of the solution info is in the vid description...as the solution was changed from what I say in the vid, so to use more fuel and less solvent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy53uOVeSKw&t=202s
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
Yes, I have a diy vid on my Utube channel...I make my own solution with 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA and use a pressure sprayer through the IAT sensor port. Additives in the fuel tank do nothing for valve build-up because direct injection sprays directly into the combustion chamber, so nothing is passing the intake valves with direct injection. All of the solution info is in the vid description...as the solution was changed from what I say in the vid, so to use more fuel and less solvent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy53uOVeSKw&t=202s
Click to expand...



Do you need to change the oil after this process? I would imagine the gunk falling into the oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
S T said:
Do you need to change the oil after this process? I would imagine the gunk falling into the oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I don't myself but you could if you have concerns. By "gunk", I assume you mean the solid bits? Out the exhaust.

If by "gunk" you mean a liquid...Mineral spirits and NAPHTHA are already found in oil treatments and additives in small amounts, so if a tiny bit passes by piston rings or valve seals, it will likely evaporate shortly. Most important, I feel, is to allow the thing to idle for up to ten minutes following the treatment...followed by a gentle drive for about the same time. Just to ensure all is well lubed and debris is clear. I try to remain under 3k rpm at all times until I have done a good long idle and for the following drive. Also, I do not have a Cat but if there was a Cat, the heat on the cat (1200°F to 1600°F) should turn everything to ash. Plus, any debris on the Cat will increase the temps aiding in this process.

I only considered doing my own method after having seen 3M, CRC, and BG44K Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaners and methods all being a blowby type. I just looked at their MSDS's to discover they all used spirits or NAPHTHA mixed with fuel so to come up with my own solution and to avoid having to disconnect the throttle-body hose from the throttle-body per their applications.

I have on two occasions(at 75k and 150k miles) added an ounce(two tablespoons) of spirits to my oil when I am about 100 to 200 miles from changing my oil. I drive gently of course...but to just give it a cleaning inside after those intervals of miles. MSDS can be your friend...search a products MSDS and check out the solution's percentages and a bit of math allows you a good idea of how much of what is in there.
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
I don't myself but you could if you have concerns. By "gunk", I assume you mean the solid bits? Out the exhaust.



If by "gunk" you mean a liquid...Mineral spirits and NAPHTHA are already found in oil treatments and additives in small amounts, so if a tiny bit passes by piston rings or valve seals, it will likely evaporate shortly. Most important, I feel, is to allow the thing to idle for up to ten minutes following the treatment...followed by a gentle drive for about the same time. Just to ensure all is well lubed and debris is clear. I try to remain under 3k rpm at all times until I have done a good long idle and for the following drive. Also, I do not have a Cat but if there was a Cat, the heat on the cat (1200°F to 1600°F) should turn everything to ash. Plus, any debris on the Cat will increase the temps aiding in this process.



I only considered doing my own method after having seen 3M, CRC, and BG44K Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaners and methods all being a blowby type. I just looked at their MSDS's to discover they all used spirits or NAPHTHA mixed with fuel so to come up with my own solution and to avoid having to disconnect the throttle-body hose from the throttle-body per their applications.



I have on two occasions(at 75k and 150k miles) added an ounce(two tablespoons) of spirits to my oil when I am about 100 to 200 miles from changing my oil. I drive gently of course...but to just give it a cleaning inside after those intervals of miles. MSDS can be your friend...search a products MSDS and check out the solution's percentages and a bit of math allows you a good idea of how much of what is in there.
Click to expand...



I use AMSOIL Power Foam to do this process and it does work. Was advised to change oil after the process that’s why i was asking, different people different opinions of course and I respect yours. Sound valid in what you said. Not sure if it applies to me whilst using power foam inserts of minerals, any thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
I don't myself but you could if you have concerns. By "gunk", I assume you mean the solid bits? Out the exhaust.



If by "gunk" you mean a liquid...Mineral spirits and NAPHTHA are already found in oil treatments and additives in small amounts, so if a tiny bit passes by piston rings or valve seals, it will likely evaporate shortly. Most important, I feel, is to allow the thing to idle for up to ten minutes following the treatment...followed by a gentle drive for about the same time. Just to ensure all is well lubed and debris is clear. I try to remain under 3k rpm at all times until I have done a good long idle and for the following drive. Also, I do not have a Cat but if there was a Cat, the heat on the cat (1200°F to 1600°F) should turn everything to ash. Plus, any debris on the Cat will increase the temps aiding in this process.



I only considered doing my own method after having seen 3M, CRC, and BG44K Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaners and methods all being a blowby type. I just looked at their MSDS's to discover they all used spirits or NAPHTHA mixed with fuel so to come up with my own solution and to avoid having to disconnect the throttle-body hose from the throttle-body per their applications.



I have on two occasions(at 75k and 150k miles) added an ounce(two tablespoons) of spirits to my oil when I am about 100 to 200 miles from changing my oil. I drive gently of course...but to just give it a cleaning inside after those intervals of miles. MSDS can be your friend...search a products MSDS and check out the solution's percentages and a bit of math allows you a good idea of how much of what is in there.
Click to expand...



Also, do you crank the side to crank the valve down each time? So it touches the top part of the valves


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
S T said:
Do you need to change the oil after this process? I would imagine the gunk falling into the oil?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...



Lol i just realized i am one of ur subscribers on YouTube. Great videos btw very helpful


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
S T said:
Also, do you crank the side to crank the valve down each time? So it touches the top part of the valves
Click to expand...
Not sure what this means...the engine is running when doing the blow-by in my diy vid...and the fuel/solvent solution contacts everything air does while passing from the intake manifold into the combustion chamber.

I assume the instructions you have do not have the engine running, yes? If they have you injecting their product while not running...I would follow those instructions. Those products I mentioned, CRC-BG44K-3M, all inject while running.

S T said:
Lol i just realized i am one of ur subscribers on YouTube. Great videos btw very helpful
Click to expand...
LOL, thanks.

OK, I just looked at Power Foam instruction:

Directions

Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray.
Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area.
Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner assembly.
While engine is running, spray foam directly into throttle body as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process.
Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.
Replace air cleaner.
Restart engine. Repeat application of Power Foam as needed.

So, your engine should be running and already up to operating temps when you begin.
 
S T

S T

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Brunei
ROH ECHT said:
Not sure what this means...the engine is running when doing the blow-by in my diy vid...and the fuel/solvent solution contacts everything air does while passing from the intake manifold into the combustion chamber.



I assume the instructions you have do not have the engine running, yes? If they have you injecting their product while not running...I would follow those instructions. Those products I mentioned, CRC-BG44K-3M, all inject while running.



LOL, thanks.



OK, I just looked at Power Foam instruction:



Directions



Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray.

Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area.

Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner assembly.

While engine is running, spray foam directly into throttle body as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process.

Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.

Replace air cleaner.

Restart engine. Repeat application of Power Foam as needed.



So, your engine should be running and already up to operating temps when you begin.
Click to expand...



Yea my engine was running with those procedures, sorry didn’t mentioned that. Got mixed up with another video that manually took the manifold off to scrape the carbons.
It’s a pretty good product IMO and does it’s job.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
ROH ECHT

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Oh, OK.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top