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Old 06-28-2017, 01:43 PM   #1
ROH ECHT
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Who's installed the GIAC 2.0T In-Tank Fuel Pump Upgrade?

http://www.giacusa.com/news_and_medi...ews.php?id=208

I need low pressure help and will likely install this kit. My low fuel pressure always drops to 3.5 bar whether I have the oem or my USP hi-flow tank pump installed.

I have the install instructions...but they are not the easiest to follow. So, if you have installed this kit please give your review on how the install went. I may have someone else install it, or at least partly, because I only have the use of one of my hands and I don't think I can zip-tie the additional pump to the basket once they are both inside the tank. I also do not get where to put the boost sensor relay. I assume it will be up front as just the wires need to head back to the fuel tank. I wish GIAC has, or made, a DIY video for this.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:56 PM   #2
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You might want to consider this instead:
https://torqbyte.com/products/torqbyte-pm3
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:31 PM   #3
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How much is it? The kit is literally just an extra pump controlled by a Hobbs switch like the USP kit. You could build the same thing for ~$100
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:51 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xSabretoothx View Post
You might want to consider this instead:
https://torqbyte.com/products/torqbyte-pm3
I am...but hoping to see if it works with the oem pump rather than having to reinstall my TTRS pump from USP...only because I hate the inaccurate fuel gauge readings and I read the TTRS has issues below 1/4 tank for some...though I don't recall ever having any. But if I could make adjustments to the TTRS float or something...I would go back to it. The PM3 lpfp driver looks easier to install than the GIAC kit.

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How much is it? The kit is literally just an extra pump controlled by a Hobbs switch like the USP kit. You could build the same thing for ~$100
Eurocars, you asking xSabertoothx the price of the PM3 lpfp driver? It's listed at $374usd. GIAC's kit is $550.
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:59 PM   #5
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The ultimate goal is to just get a low pressure actual to meet its request and have the high pressure request to be as it should rather than the 110 bar it has been until I reduced the boost allowing the request to raise partially to 125 bar. My high pressure actual is always over its request by the way.
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:15 PM   #6
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I was talking about the GIAC kit. If you're considering it, I can help you piece one together for much less
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eurocars View Post
I was talking about the GIAC kit. If you're considering it, I can help you piece one together for much less
Thank you but I'm considering not using the GIAC kit as it looks easier to use the PM3 lpfp driver with either the oem or the USP 'hi-flow' I already have. Not a huge build here...not seeking more or the most...I just want the low actual pressure to do what the request is and hope the high pressure request will be as it should. I have a compound issue with too much boost and low fuel pressure from the tank pump. I'm just looking to correct it the easiest way at this point.
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Old 07-07-2017, 02:07 PM   #8
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Receiving my new oem controller today and will get it installed first. Then next to come is the torqbyte PM3, and finally I will likely swap out the oem lpfp to my USP hi-flow lpfp once the fuel level sender is transferred. I will report changes to my hpfp request and my lpfp actual as I go.
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Old 07-07-2017, 03:29 PM   #9
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Awesome! Hope that set-up works well for you.
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Old 07-07-2017, 06:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
Receiving my new oem controller today and will get it installed first. Then next to come is the torqbyte PM3, and finally I will likely swap out the oem lpfp to my USP hi-flow lpfp once the fuel level sender is transferred. I will report changes to my hpfp request and my lpfp actual as I go.
I would try the OEM pump first since that is what you are tuned for. My understanding from working with DM was that tuning was necessary when upgrading the LPFP
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Old 07-07-2017, 11:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
Receiving my new oem controller today and will get it installed first. Then next to come is the torqbyte PM3, and finally I will likely swap out the oem lpfp to my USP hi-flow lpfp once the fuel level sender is transferred. I will report changes to my hpfp request and my lpfp actual as I go.


If it's the "H" version, the pm3 doesn't work with those. I think torqbyte has a work around though
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Old 07-11-2017, 01:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
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I would try the OEM pump first since that is what you are tuned for. My understanding from working with DM was that tuning was necessary when upgrading the LPFP
I hope to use the oem lpfp...I don't use the DM tune anymore...back with the GIAC K04-HO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by high_octane3541 View Post
If it's the "H" version, the pm3 doesn't work with those. I think torqbyte has a work around though
It is that H-version oem controller that I installed Friday July 7, '17. Looks like nothing was wrong with the E-version(details below)...so it may be going back in real soon along with the PM3.

Haven't got to do a data log yet...tried a quick one yesterday in 4th but only got to 6100 rpm and already saw the pressure just go under 4 bar(3.88) at a 4.26 request. At 6200 rpm is where my lpfp actual always dropped below 4 bar in the past...so still need to get a full pull of data...but looking like I need to go further as I thought with the PM3 and lpfp upgrade. I do plan to install the PM3 with the oem lpfp and check data before installing the lpfp upgrade because wanting to see and post when the actual fuel pressure in the low lines are corrected.
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:52 PM   #13
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So...Torqbyte and another here says the 1K0906093H is KR@P! Made in China and doesn't solve its issues. It is also not compatible with the PM3. Torqbyte says they will have an oem replacement available in a few weeks if interested. It won't eliminate the need for the PM3 if needed,, but you can hopefully trust it is better quality than the oem offerings.

So, I reinstalled my old, E-vrsion-1K0906093E, control unit today.
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Old 07-17-2017, 05:37 PM   #14
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I got the oem "v-E" controller reinstalled and a new G-version is on order. But, when looking into swapping the fuel level sender from the oem lpfp to the USP hi-flow, as suggested by Deutsche Auto Parts' diy video @ 3m55s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cit56QE5UHo for correct fuel level reading on your gauge, I found they are completely different designs and cannot be simply transferred as they say in the diy vid.

I just hope when I install the PM3 with the oem lpfp I see the corrections needed. Then I need to decide which lpfp upgrade would be best because I hate the USP hi-flow's gauge misfunction.

Can I do something like this in the oem basket?: http://www.highflowfuel.com/ag-13051...-gti-2-0l.html
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Old 01-11-2018, 05:26 PM   #15
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So any resolution to this?

I am going Revo stage 4 and everything is done minus the lpfp upgrade. I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.... Can I swap the lpfp with the TTRS pump leave the original control module and wire in the PM3 unit? This is supposed to be a "plug and play" solution just really can't find any confirmation
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Old 01-11-2018, 07:25 PM   #16
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I opted to go PM3 rather than GIAC's dual lpfp.

The PM3 helped raise and keep actual pressure above 4 bar with the tiring oem lpfp still installed. But the PM3 and oem controller works with the oem pump and the TTRS lpfp. You can wait and upgrade it to a TTRS when you see pressures drop below 4 bar. I plan to integrate the TTRS into the oem housing and sender when this happens because of the following.

The PM3 and oem controller will plug in to the TTRS upgrade...you just will not have correct fuel gauge readings with the TTRS sender installed. The readings will be slightly off...meaning it won't read completely full and may run empty when it sayd you have 10 or 15 miles to go. I found this out when I had the TTRS installed for a couple of years.
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Old 01-11-2018, 07:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
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So any resolution to this?

I am going Revo stage 4 and everything is done minus the lpfp upgrade. I can't find a definitive answer anywhere.... Can I swap the lpfp with the TTRS pump leave the original control module and wire in the PM3 unit? This is supposed to be a "plug and play" solution just really can't find any confirmation
Here is a diagram from Torquebyte. Hopefully this will clarify how things are hooked up. Yes the OEM controller is still used for signal but not for current anymore. That signal is passed to the Torquebyte unit which replicates the signal and will now supply the current to the pump via its big fat wire connected directly to battery (max current).

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Old 01-12-2018, 01:14 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
I opted to go PM3 rather than GIAC's dual lpfp.

The PM3 helped raise and keep actual pressure above 4 bar with the tiring oem lpfp still installed. But the PM3 and oem controller works with the oem pump and the TTRS lpfp. You can wait and upgrade it to a TTRS when you see pressures drop below 4 bar. I plan to integrate the TTRS into the oem housing and sender when this happens because of the following.

The PM3 and oem controller will plug in to the TTRS upgrade...you just will not have correct fuel gauge readings with the TTRS sender installed. The readings will be slightly off...meaning it won't read completely full and may run empty when it sayd you have 10 or 15 miles to go. I found this out when I had the TTRS installed for a couple of years.
Are you unable to correct the fuel level issue with vagcom? There is an adaptation to change where the fuel meter sits. Or I'm guessing it's just not calibrated for mkv gti?

I'm too OCD to have my fuel level off, maybe I'll pick up the ttrs pump and another original pump and figure out how to fit it into the OE basket like you. If you have any insight into that process any info would be appreciated.
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Old 01-12-2018, 01:15 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Here is a diagram from Torquebyte. Hopefully this will clarify how things are hooked up. Yes the OEM controller is still used for signal but not for current anymore. That signal is passed to the Torquebyte unit which replicates the signal and will now supply the current to the pump via its big fat wire connected directly to battery (max current).

Awesome, that's how I thought it all worked, sort of just needed the "yeah that's correct" from someone with experience.

Would it be at all possible to take power from my amp or the power cable ran for the amp? Don't feel like running another power cable haha.
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Old 01-12-2018, 03:37 AM   #20
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I haven't heard of that ability and the senders cannot be swapped. Also, you can tap into your AMP power...see here; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cit56QE5UHo

My vid; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ssta6Ky1skg
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