GOLFMK8
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Rear Hatch Power

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
Well yes i had the car for a long time so i know how to use both the switch and fob. I have tried holding the fob for longer times, have tried using both at the same time, and so on. And i possibly read all the forums on the issue. Only things I havent done is electrical diagnosis which I need help with, and vagcom reading which I will be doing in the next few days when I meet my friend that has a vagcom.

I just remembered that this started happening last summer when it was hot and it gradually stopped working. I remember because I had to crawl inside the steaming hot trunk all the time to manually open it. Perhaps something melted somewhere? Circuit board? Fuse?

It is unlikely anything melted.
The circuit is protected by a controller, no direct fuse.
Vag-Com is a good starting point,
there is a way to manually test the controller unlock signals to the latch
in Vag-Com, etc. you should be able to identify a failed wire
or other possible cause.
 

moee79

New member
Location
Toronto
Car(s)
2007 VW GTI
Fix update

I finally found what was wrong with my trunk today...

I've been using my trunk with the plastic covers off, and using my golf umbrella to manually open it from the inside. I was too busy to get it fixed, and didn't want to take it in to the dealership and get ripped off on a stupid trunk issue.

Today, I had some time, so I decided to take another look at it. After inspecting for 5 minutes, I noticed a small piece of metal sheet (rough guess is a few mm x 1cm) behind the upper locking mechanism, or at least that's what the dealership parts guy called it. I was merely trying to clean it with a q-tip, and the lower latch made a big clicking sound that I haven't heard for over a year!:headbang:

After that I spent two hours taking the stupid thing off, trying to figure out how the damn thing works, and actually fixing it. It's a simple mechanism, just poorly designed.

So the mechanism is behind/inside the trunk emblem/handle. When you do the unlocking motion, it triggers a small plastic piece inside (which apparently does not come out of the mechanism when it is loose.. out of its place... it just moves around in the damn thing and is JUST big enough to NOT come out). Anyhow, the piece triggers another tiny little plastic piece, which then in turn, triggers the electric motor in the latch. Obviously, there's another electric switch and whatnot in the latch itself, but that's another story.

So why did my trunk not open? Because the first little piece was worn out by the repeated motion, and was loose. I accidentally popped it out of its place; that was then trapped within the mechanism itself; had to use direct sunlight to study the inside; somehow push it back in place using a skinny screwdriver; etc. and all that to find out the thing was worn out and wouldn't click into its place - only works once and loosens itself.

Luckily, I was able to stuff small pieces of plastic to hold it in place. And now I'm thinking I should have taken some pictures...:mad0259:

Oh, the dealership quoted me 389.03CAD for this upper mechanism. Ridiculous. Anyway, thought I'd report back in case anyone else is having trunk issues, or is being ripped off by the dealership. And now I have to sell my extra latch that I bought... lol
 

punkyroge

New member
Location
Winchester
I have a similar problem in that I believe the badge boot release has failed. I have checked all the wiring as shown in the images (thanks!) but the is no cut wires and the light and washer work fine.

The part number(s) on the badge are O 3C5 827 469 C or D, I have a MKV Golf Match 1.9 TDi so my question can I use the boot badge release with part number to replace mine; 1K0 827 469 E/F/G?

Thanks for your help
 

eblaikie

New member
Location
San Marcos, Ca
Does anyone know of a way to just disable the lock so it stays unlocked all the time? I never keep stuff in there and my car is never in a spot that it would get stolen.
 

phillip1978

Ready to race!
Location
VIC AUSTRALIA
Great info on here guys just had the same issues on mine.
Symptoms
MFD stating: rear right fog light, rear left reverse light
Boot light intermittent
Hatch handle actuator no longer working. (had to access emergency release from in the boot)

When pressing on the LHS rubber conduit holding the cables can see the boot light switching on, once released, boot light goes off.
After that closing the hatch, no more issues with MFD tail light messages.

Have ordered the following harness

1K6971147Q - Left hand hatch harness.

Will install it personally once i receive the part, removal of the plastics looks like a complete PITA.

Also having worked as an Avionics Tech with a major international airline.
NEVER SOLDER WIRES IN AREAS THAT HAVE HIGH VIBRATION. ALWAYS CRIMP.

Which is pretty much the entire vehicle.

A few famous cases in the aviation industry in the 60s and 70s of soldering joints vibrating to failure and coming apart.
Difference in those cases aircraft crashed everyone died, wont see that extent in a vehicle, however it is good practice to always crimp wires if you ever intend to splice a damaged harness.
Every wire in a car could be considered as a high vibration situation.
 

mathnitrof

New member
Location
Montreal
Can anyone tell me where I could find a wiring diagram for the harness that include reverse light, heating seats. There is a short somewhere. Also, I would like to know where the wire run behind the plastic cover in the car interior.

Regards,
 

Braden09Rabbit

New member
Location
Chico, CA
I am having the same problem, but I now replaced the whole wiring harness in the rear and still have no power. I can’t seem to find any fuses that are blown. Any help it greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

unie01

New member
Location
ohio
Loving this thread! sub'd
 

Nataraki

Ready to race!
Location
Bay Area, CA
Car(s)
'92 BMW 318i
Having the same issue now, sub'd.
 

MomoAK

New member
Location
Wasilla,Alaska
Like a zombie rising from the dead I awaken this thread! How did those of you who fixed your harness match up the small and medium white wires correctly? My harness was completely split:help:. Every single wire was separated. now I am struggling to match them up correctly. Does someone have the harness diagram/s?
 
Location
ATX
Hi all-
Like many others,
I’ve found itself on this thread several times the past few years and also just like others who’ve posted here just got used to climbing into the back to release by hand..
I have pulled the backside of the hatch off more than once, you have to be very sharp with your motion when removing and re installing (think: *be the rubber mallet*) that peice (w/ 2 screws inside “handles”). And the previous owner had pulled the right side out several times- (where addl. cigarette socket and trunk light are)

However unsure whether anyone would take the time to respond to this thread- it’s 2023 and things change etc.
anyway- the harness is just under 200$ on ecs.com and around the same on FCP euro I think.
I’ve typed in the part numbers into Amazon and found a brand called herth and buss.
My question is, which one of the following fits ‘07 gti 2dr manual Fahrenheit edition ?


Herth+Buss Elparts 51277133 Cable Repair Set, tailgate

Herth+Buss Elparts 51277130 Cable Repair Set, tailgate

HERTH+BUSS ELPARTS 51277020 Cable Repair Set


Thanks a bunch in advance, see y’all on the hatch side!
 
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