GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

K04 missing low end torque

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
Try clearing the codes before you crank it. If it still doesn’t start scan it and see what it says.
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
USA
Car(s)
MK 6 GolfR
Standing in front of the car, back left corner of your panel, SB40 and SB43 are for the ignition coils.
SB40 = 20amp
SB43 = 30amp

Even if your panel is post May 2007 it is same 2 fuses.
And as suggested look for any codes to give you clues.

Bentley copyrighted so removed pics.

Check for private message for labeled diagram of board.
 
Last edited:

Perpetuus

Data Encryption
Location
In my garage
Standing in front of the car, back left corner of your panel, SB40 and SB43 are for the ignition coils.
SB40 = 20amp
SB43 = 30amp

Even if your panel is post May 2007 it is same 2 fuses.
And as suggested look for any codes to give you clues.

Bentley copyrighted so removed pics.

Check for private message for labeled diagram of board.

Thanks for checking into this for me. I checked my fusebox but could not find a fuse in the SB43 location. (The SB40 fuse was present and looked fine after pulling it). Also personally looked at another 2007 MkV with a BPY motor and it was the exact same without a SB43 fuse. Very puzzling.


Still, I found the culprit to be a softset engine speed sensor. Reconnected it properly and the car fired right up.

So far, I drove the car for 5 minutes and could confirm that the car idles quieter and smoother. Unfortunately, the spring clamp holding the rubber hose connected to the top of the throttle body pipe (Y-pipe) popped loose at the very first instant that I accelerated harder, putting the car into limp mode. This has not happened since the last time the car drove properly, and never happened even when I did my WOT runs to collect the logs recently.

Previously, when the car was making proper K04 power, the entire throttle body pipe would pop loose as the engine torques under acceleration. It's the BSH throttle body pipe, which has never fitted well because of my large intercooler and because of the WMI spacer I added. However, I made a bracket that anchored to the bottom half of the pipe, which helps retain the throttle body pipe if any hoses pop loose, but there are still three issues:
1) the top of the throttle body pipe is still allowed to move somewhat when the engine torques. I suspect this helped work the rubber piping loose today.
2) the WMI spacer moves the throttle body further down than stock. As a result, the rubber piping coming from the Y-pipe no longer sits in its intended geometry.
3) because of 1) and 2) above, I trimmed a custom silicone elbow to fit the throttle body pipe into the throttle body some time ago. This silicone elbow is not completely straight where it meets the throttle body due to the tight spacing here. the hose clamp works but doesn't sit at an ideal angle or position.

Here's a photo of what it all looks like:


The USRT throttle body WMI spacer:


I am almost tempted to remove the WMI spacer and put back the stock pancake pipe. Not running WMI at this moment so the spacer has a plug on it. Not sure if the flow restriction removed by the CTS throttle body pipe is worth the fight or could be made to fit better. The main reason I am using the Y-pipe is for it to feed my relocated DV.
 
Top