Hey guys I had a mkvi gti got rid of it for a Subaru and want to get back into a mkv gti. I'm looking at one at a dealership with full maintenance records 1 owner 92k miles w/ clean carfax for a really good price. What are some issues to look out for? Reliability wise would I be pretty safe making a move for this?
V
Possible issues w/ a mkv tsi mkv?
- Thread starter Bouse
- Start date
donjuan1jr
whats a turbo?
- Location
- East of queens west of hamptons
Short answer no.
pb4ugoout
Ready to race!
- Location
- Anderson, SC
Since no one else actually answered the questions:
1.) Check the records for/ask the dealer if work was ever done on the transmission, if it's a DSG. Ensure fluids have been changed regularly and if the mechatronics unit was replaced. Drive it to ensure it is shifting smoothly. Check reverse for surging.
2.) Check the records for/ask the dealer if work work was ever done on the cam shaft, fuel pump, and cam follower. If these were not replaced, be advised that the extended warranty is 10yrs/120,000mi, whichever comes first. I'd check and change the cam follower immediately regardless.
3.) If it hasn't been done already, the timing belt is coming up for replacement. This is a costly replacement.
4.) Ask about oil consumption. These cars burn increasing amounts of oil as they age. There are lots of reason and lots of fixes. Most of the fixes are band-aids to a larger issue that is costly.
5.) Make sure the aircon works.
6.) Headliners tend to sag. Check it.
7.) MFD, screen between the gauges, had a fading issue. Make sure it's not acting weird.
8.) Listen for squeaks from the starter motor when starting the car.
9.) Check that the doors lock and unlock properly when the keyfob is used. Faulty door latches are common and can cause all manner of strange door lock activity, including but not limited to, the doors not actually locking but the alarm arming.
10.) While idling, listen to the left side of the engine for "crickets." Indicates a faulty idler pully. Could also have a failing water pump. This goes hand in hand with the timing belt. If you're servicing one you might as well do all of them.
1.) Check the records for/ask the dealer if work was ever done on the transmission, if it's a DSG. Ensure fluids have been changed regularly and if the mechatronics unit was replaced. Drive it to ensure it is shifting smoothly. Check reverse for surging.
2.) Check the records for/ask the dealer if work work was ever done on the cam shaft, fuel pump, and cam follower. If these were not replaced, be advised that the extended warranty is 10yrs/120,000mi, whichever comes first. I'd check and change the cam follower immediately regardless.
3.) If it hasn't been done already, the timing belt is coming up for replacement. This is a costly replacement.
4.) Ask about oil consumption. These cars burn increasing amounts of oil as they age. There are lots of reason and lots of fixes. Most of the fixes are band-aids to a larger issue that is costly.
5.) Make sure the aircon works.
6.) Headliners tend to sag. Check it.
7.) MFD, screen between the gauges, had a fading issue. Make sure it's not acting weird.
8.) Listen for squeaks from the starter motor when starting the car.
9.) Check that the doors lock and unlock properly when the keyfob is used. Faulty door latches are common and can cause all manner of strange door lock activity, including but not limited to, the doors not actually locking but the alarm arming.
10.) While idling, listen to the left side of the engine for "crickets." Indicates a faulty idler pully. Could also have a failing water pump. This goes hand in hand with the timing belt. If you're servicing one you might as well do all of them.
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Eh, I'd want some pretty good documentation that the car has been looked after. Two major things are the ABS pump and timing chain tensioner. Both are costly with the later being catastrophic if it fails.
See if you can find out with revision tensioner it has if not the latest I'd stay away.
If those two things check out ok then you should be good, just normal VW stuff.
FWIW....I got rid of my MKV w/ 98K miles for those very two reasons. I was on borrowed time on the timing chain issue and off loaded it so someone else can deal with it.
See if you can find out with revision tensioner it has if not the latest I'd stay away.
If those two things check out ok then you should be good, just normal VW stuff.
FWIW....I got rid of my MKV w/ 98K miles for those very two reasons. I was on borrowed time on the timing chain issue and off loaded it so someone else can deal with it.
donjuan1jr
whats a turbo?
- Location
- East of queens west of hamptons
The tsi has a timing chain, half your points are null..
At higher mileage the tsi needs work, lots of oil leaks, turbos do not last at all due to the wastegate rattle.
It's a high maintenance vehicle.
pb4ugoout
Ready to race!
- Location
- Anderson, SC
Totally missed the part of the title that said TSI. That's what I get for reading too fast.
You are lucky to have access to full maintenance records.
Some items mentioned before, plus others:
1) Has intake manifold been replaced (extended warranty to 120K miles)?
2) Have intake valve pockets been cleaned? Easy to do when intake manifold is off, but labor time to clean them is NOT included in warranty time when manifold is replaced (so a dealer won't automatically do it).
3) Was Timing chain tensioner updated?
4) TPMS transmitters replaced lately (they are good for about 6 years)?
5) Has ABS pump been replaced (2009's were especially bad)?
6) Look closely at top of front fender wheel arches for rust (extended warranty applies). In fact, look all over for any signs of rust.
7) Look at bottom-front point of each front door for outward bending damage - common in freezing winter climates.
8) PCV Valve failures are common, has it been replaced?
9) Although it's at a dealer, I'd still be inclined to take a code scanner and be sure someone has not recently reset any engine faults to hide them (on some scanners that means a green light versus yellow light condition).
I love my GTI, but if you need / want something really reliable, buy a boring Honda!
Some items mentioned before, plus others:
1) Has intake manifold been replaced (extended warranty to 120K miles)?
2) Have intake valve pockets been cleaned? Easy to do when intake manifold is off, but labor time to clean them is NOT included in warranty time when manifold is replaced (so a dealer won't automatically do it).
3) Was Timing chain tensioner updated?
4) TPMS transmitters replaced lately (they are good for about 6 years)?
5) Has ABS pump been replaced (2009's were especially bad)?
6) Look closely at top of front fender wheel arches for rust (extended warranty applies). In fact, look all over for any signs of rust.
7) Look at bottom-front point of each front door for outward bending damage - common in freezing winter climates.
8) PCV Valve failures are common, has it been replaced?
9) Although it's at a dealer, I'd still be inclined to take a code scanner and be sure someone has not recently reset any engine faults to hide them (on some scanners that means a green light versus yellow light condition).
I love my GTI, but if you need / want something really reliable, buy a boring Honda!