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HPFP Failure and How to Rebuild?

nitroracer

New member
Location
PA
I picked up a new project recently, in the form of a 2008 Volkswagen GTI with the 2.0L FSI / BPY engine. I've been reading up on problems with these cars and I believe mine has failed a High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) at some point in its past. I'd like to find out what my options are for getting it running well again. As-is the car runs and drives, but has a rough idle, some oil leaking on the back drivers side of the cylinder head (appears to be the valve cover), and two codes P0011-'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1 and P0089 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Performance.

I pulled the HPFP and vacuum pump to get a better look at the intake cam and the results are in the pictures below. First off, the HPFP is new and the cam follower is heavily worn. I noticed the cam chain cover housing where the fuel pump bolts on is all torn up around the follower, I'm assuming this should fit snugly and guide the follower meaning it needs replaced. The cam itself is a later revision with a 2-piece cam and lobe design. The fuel pump lobe isn't flattened out, but it isn't shiny and new either. I'm not sure whether this means I need a new cam or the lobe is replaceable.

ECS sells a kit to replace an intake cam for ~$500 and the cam cover housing is another $150-200 used. At this point, I'm working if my time would be better spent just dropping on a used or reman cylinder head or another used engine entirely. Let me know what your suggestions are.
 

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vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
That looks really bad. I would definitely contact the person who did this, chances are that you have metal shavings in the whole engine. This cover will also need to be replaced I think.
 

vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
Looking at the opening one also can see lots of sludge, guess the oil changes were not done so regularly also the follower seems to be new looking at the coating, probably was just put in to sell the car. I also have a used cam housing (but in perfect condition) as the cam chain kit came with a new one but with the shipping price you are probably better off buying one locally.

Replacing the head would be an option but I think it is much more work intensive also more expensive.
 

GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
Please send your VIN by PM to posters here and pass it on like they did to you. What's the saying " Do unto others what they have done to me" or was that...........


That looks like a poorly maintained engine and with the look of that hpfp lobe with the wear in the center that hpfp was riding it hard. Pull side cover see what trash you find. If you replace cam take note of cam journals particular the one next to side cover. At a minimum install magnets on oil pickup to catch the metal.

 
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nitroracer

New member
Location
PA
Thanks for the replys everyone. I picked up the car knowing it would need work so I was prepared for something to cost a few bucks. Since I'll be diving into this engine pretty deep, what other while you're in there jobs should I be looking at? Timing belt and water pump?

I found a reasonably priced kit through FCP for the cam replacement as well. Does it appear to be missing anything?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-vw-camshaft-replacement-kit-amc-523231
 
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ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
I picked up a new project recently, in the form of a 2008 Volkswagen GTI with the 2.0L FSI / BPY engine. I've been reading up on problems with these cars and I believe mine has failed a High Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP) at some point in its past. I'd like to find out what my options are for getting it running well again. As-is the car runs and drives, but has a rough idle, some oil leaking on the back drivers side of the cylinder head (appears to be the valve cover), and two codes P0011-'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1 and P0089 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Performance. OK, the obvious; change the timing belt w/water pump and pulleys, and timing chain w/tensioner. Change the N205. Change the intake cam. Change the HPFP and CF. Replace the valve cover gasket, but be prepared to replace the valve cover itself after inspecting the inner splash plate that is sealed to the under side as it does become unsealed. This should get it running right and be worry free for a good amount of time.

I pulled the HPFP and vacuum pump to get a better look at the intake cam and the results are in the pictures below. First off, the HPFP is new and the cam follower is heavily worn. I noticed the cam chain cover housing where the fuel pump bolts on is all torn up around the follower, I'm assuming this should fit snugly and guide the follower meaning it needs replaced. The cam itself is a later revision with a 2-piece cam and lobe design. The fuel pump lobe isn't flattened out, but it isn't shiny and new either. I'm not sure whether this means I need a new cam or the lobe is replaceable. That is what shady people do when they don't deal with the CF issue completely and choose to pass it on to another...a previous CF had worn completely through and the HPFP piston had grooved the tri-lobe("fuel pump lobe isn't flattened out") on the intake cam quite badly. Then, with it needing a new cam, HPFP and CF, they only stuck in a new CF and sold the vehicle.

ECS sells a kit to replace an intake cam for ~$500 and the cam cover housing is another $150-200 used. At this point, I'm working if my time would be better spent just dropping on a used or reman cylinder head or another used engine entirely. Let me know what your suggestions are.Just repair it. No need to replace the head or engine. The new bits will allow it to be inspected as work is being done and be prepared for those extras like a valve cover or cam related bits. You may have the oil pan dropped for a clean out and add the magnetic drain if you like...but when my CF allowed the HPFP and cam to be damaged....there wasn't much found in the oil pan.
Most of my suggestions are in response to the first paragraph...just needs the attention the one neglected before. Also, use a 100% Synthetic oil rather than one like Castrol Edge-"Full Synthetic" as Castrol states it is just 51% or more synthetic. Actually, all that state "Full Synthetic" need only be 51% to be allowed to make that statement. LiquiMoly 5w40 is a good one. If oil is seeping from the vacuum pump outlet due to the outlet nipple being loose...you may choose to replace the vacuum pump if little leaks bother you. There is more you could do "since diving deep into this engine", but how far do you want to go? You could rebuild the head giving it new valve stem seals and guides...replace the oil filter housing and cooler seals...replace intake, head, and exhaust manifold gaskets and seals...and replace all coolant and fuel sensors and more. The P0089 code can be the G410 sensor mounted on the left side of the HPFP, the fuel pump control module mounted above the LPFP in the tank, or the LPFP itself. I would replace the G410 on the new HPFP and clear that code. If it returns, you can have it diagnosed or just replace one or both of the remaining bits. But keep in mind the 6.6 bar regulated fuel filter needs to be OK as well.
 
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GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
Post up the mileage on this GTI. For the kit make sure its an upgraded cam seeing that is an AMC aftermarket cam.

Check your PM for Pm on the 08 GTI.
 
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nitroracer

New member
Location
PA
Thanks for the input everyone. I ordered up some parts today while the parts houses were feeling generous for labor day. I'll get this car back in the road.
 

nitroracer

New member
Location
PA
Dug into the tear down a little bit today - I found the source of my oil leak. I needed a new cover anyway, but this was a nice failure.
 

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GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
Dug into the tear down a little bit today - I found the source of my oil leak. I needed a new cover anyway, but this was a nice failure.

Never seen a CF fail like that. Hardly looks like it had an wear, wonder if this was a cheaper aftermarket CF.
 
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