GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

p0118 Code on car

S

SpiffyEh

New member
Location
OKC
Hi,
I'm new to this forum and having issues with my vehicle so I figured posting here is worth a shot since I've seen so much helpful information on other issues I've encountered. I had the car diagnosed by VW and they found a few issues including telling me that the coolant temperature sensor is bad, the large radiator fan is broken, and a couple other evap and vacuum issues. I fixed all of the items and I replaced the fan and the temperature sensor but I'm still getting a code that I wasn't seeing before and the fans seem to run all the time (which I've read is a symptom of the code). Attached is the info given to me by VW about the sensor.

The code is "p0118 powertrain engine coolant temperature circuit high input". I double checked to make sure the temperature sensor is installed correctly and cleared the codes but it came back. I'm at a loss for where to go from here. I did some research and found out there's another temperature sensor? Could that possibly need to be replaced as well?

Vehicle: 2007 VW GTI 4 Door Base hatchback 2.0L

Symptoms:
  • Both radiator fans always running high speed
  • AC doesn't work

Does anyone have an ideas of where I should go from here?

Thank you so much in advance!
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2018-08-23 at 6.26.24 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2018-08-23 at 6.26.24 PM.png
    330.9 KB · Views: 333
GTI's

GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
Yes you have two senders and they carry the same part number. Which on did you replace?
 
GTI's

GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
Do you have access to vcds? Take a look at the G62(the one you changed) and G83 on a cold engine they should read at ambient temp to start.

Do you happen to have the freeze frame data for that P0118 Dtc?
 
S

SpiffyEh

New member
Location
OKC
It doesn't look like there's any freeze frame data. I found the attached screenshot though. The coolant temperature is showing at -40 which seems suspicious since the car wasn't running
 

Attachments

  • 1946df39-db14-4cec-a12b-380b559d6c92.png
    1946df39-db14-4cec-a12b-380b559d6c92.png
    484.7 KB · Views: 360
GTI's

GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
Was this a Sensor from the dealer? With -40°C the sender is faulty or wiring. Check your PM for instructions.
 
Last edited:
S

SpiffyEh

New member
Location
OKC
Did you mean sensor? I got the sensor on ebay but I did buy one that specified OEM (I read online that non-oem ones tend to give up). I got the instructions. Thank you so much! I'll report back with what I find out
 
S

SpiffyEh

New member
Location
OKC
It took some time and lots of reading about the multimeter but I managed to make some progress. This is the first time I've ever used one so bare with me. I checked the wiring first and made sure there was a voltage coming through which looks good (said it should be 5, I got 4.7) then I checked the sensor and the new sensor always has 0 resistance no matter how I test it. I checked the old sensor and it shows 1.60 ohms. I guess the new sensor is faulty after all and the old one didn’t need replacing.I put the old sensor back in and cleared the codes, drove around, etc. The p0118 code hasn’t come back up!

There’s a pending fault (no check engine light yet) for p0420 which I’m not sure what that could be but it’s still pending. The fans seem to be running more regular now which is great! The AC still doesn’t actually blow cold air but I think I need to check if it kicks on correctly - maybe it just needs to be recharged?

One question, the old sensor looks like it has some surface corrosion, it looks like it’s more discoloration than anything and could probably be buffed out but I don’t know if that would damage the sensor or if it’s safer to just replace it. Would you recommend just paying VW the $50 and getting a new sensor for them or just continue to use the old one? I also need to flush the coolant, we didn’t know what we were doing and used an after make (which I read is bad and should be using g12). Would the coolant have an affect on the AC not functioning?

Thank you so much for the guide/idea to check the resistance on those sensors it definitely saved a lot more headache.
 
vwengineer

vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
You can use the sensor as long as it works even if there is some "corrosion" on it but flush the coolant asap because it can also corrode the radiator/oil cooler/heater core (and probably already has at some extent).

P0420 is linked to the catalyst converter, if you have the stock downpipe it means that it needs replacing, if you have an aftermarket downpipe it's normal and you should get a spacer for the lamba sensor to make it disappear.
 
GTI's

GTI's

Drag Racing Champion
Location
MD
SpiffyEh said:
It took some time and lots of reading about the multimeter but I managed to make some progress. This is the first time I've ever used one so bare with me. I checked the wiring first and made sure there was a voltage coming through which looks good (said it should be 5, I got 4.7) then I checked the sensor and the new sensor always has 0 resistance no matter how I test it. I checked the old sensor and it shows 1.60 ohms. I guess the new sensor is faulty after all and the old one didn’t need replacing.I put the old sensor back in and cleared the codes, drove around, etc. The p0118 code hasn’t come back up!

There’s a pending fault (no check engine light yet) for p0420 which I’m not sure what that could be but it’s still pending. The fans seem to be running more regular now which is great! The AC still doesn’t actually blow cold air but I think I need to check if it kicks on correctly - maybe it just needs to be recharged?

One question, the old sensor looks like it has some surface corrosion, it looks like it’s more discoloration than anything and could probably be buffed out but I don’t know if that would damage the sensor or if it’s safer to just replace it. Would you recommend just paying VW the $50 and getting a new sensor for them or just continue to use the old one? I also need to flush the coolant, we didn’t know what we were doing and used an after make (which I read is bad and should be using g12). Would the coolant have an affect on the AC not functioning?

Thank you so much for the guide/idea to check the resistance on those sensors it definitely saved a lot more headache.
Click to expand...



I guess the question is what did the VW tech see that they believed you needed a new ect sensor??

Change coolant asap G13 is the latest greatest per VW. Coolant would not have any effect on AC unless it was overheating and the ECU would turn it off.

The compressor is always turning on the MKV, it has no electromechanical clutch but a regulation valve that change compressor displacement from 5%-100%. This valve can go bad and cause slow cooling, intermittent cooling etc. Valves are NA at dealer but there are available in the aftermarket. Does system work at all?

P0420 http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16804/P0420/001056
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top