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Old 05-14-2019, 07:00 PM   #1
gti2slow
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CRC GDI cleaner

I've used CRC GDI stuff as well as Seafoam annually using a spray nozzle through the IAT port. I have had good results when done on an engine at operating temperature and with a heatsoak. I have not saved any borescope shots after my last cleaning but this dudes video really is similar to my results (My buildup was not nearly as bad, I have no buildup as I clean every year)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_giqO78tLY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48JSlXlvMC0

Thought I would share as this for anyone interested in what a chemical clean can do. It wont get the engine spotless but will melt off any of the chunky buildup.
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Old 05-15-2019, 04:21 AM   #2
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Do you actually see the valves afterwards? Many times the chem/spray stuff doesn’t totally work.
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Old 05-15-2019, 02:13 PM   #3
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I see more valve stem and guide just using 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA...

before;


after:


...apologies for the cheap $10 bore-scope
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Old 05-16-2019, 08:44 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by golfballer78 View Post
Do you actually see the valves afterwards? Many times the chem/spray stuff doesnt totally work.
Yeah, it cleans up pretty good. the key is it needs done while the engine is warm to work.
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Old 05-18-2019, 01:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
I see more valve stem and guide just using 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA...

before;


after:


...apologies for the cheap $10 bore-scope
any more info on the method? do you spray into the manifold as well or just in fuel tank?
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Old 05-20-2019, 01:47 AM   #6
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any more info on the method? do you spray into the manifold as well or just in fuel tank?
Yes, I have a diy vid on my Utube channel...I make my own solution with 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA and use a pressure sprayer through the IAT sensor port. Additives in the fuel tank do nothing for valve build-up because direct injection sprays directly into the combustion chamber, so nothing is passing the intake valves with direct injection. All of the solution info is in the vid description...as the solution was changed from what I say in the vid, so to use more fuel and less solvent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy53uOVeSKw&t=202s
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:14 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
Yes, I have a diy vid on my Utube channel...I make my own solution with 4 parts fuel to 1 part spirits or NAPHTHA and use a pressure sprayer through the IAT sensor port. Additives in the fuel tank do nothing for valve build-up because direct injection sprays directly into the combustion chamber, so nothing is passing the intake valves with direct injection. All of the solution info is in the vid description...as the solution was changed from what I say in the vid, so to use more fuel and less solvent: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fy53uOVeSKw&t=202s


Do you need to change the oil after this process? I would imagine the gunk falling into the oil?


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Old 05-24-2019, 01:29 PM   #8
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Do you need to change the oil after this process? I would imagine the gunk falling into the oil?


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I don't myself but you could if you have concerns. By "gunk", I assume you mean the solid bits? Out the exhaust.

If by "gunk" you mean a liquid...Mineral spirits and NAPHTHA are already found in oil treatments and additives in small amounts, so if a tiny bit passes by piston rings or valve seals, it will likely evaporate shortly. Most important, I feel, is to allow the thing to idle for up to ten minutes following the treatment...followed by a gentle drive for about the same time. Just to ensure all is well lubed and debris is clear. I try to remain under 3k rpm at all times until I have done a good long idle and for the following drive. Also, I do not have a Cat but if there was a Cat, the heat on the cat (1200F to 1600F) should turn everything to ash. Plus, any debris on the Cat will increase the temps aiding in this process.

I only considered doing my own method after having seen 3M, CRC, and BG44K Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaners and methods all being a blowby type. I just looked at their MSDS's to discover they all used spirits or NAPHTHA mixed with fuel so to come up with my own solution and to avoid having to disconnect the throttle-body hose from the throttle-body per their applications.

I have on two occasions(at 75k and 150k miles) added an ounce(two tablespoons) of spirits to my oil when I am about 100 to 200 miles from changing my oil. I drive gently of course...but to just give it a cleaning inside after those intervals of miles. MSDS can be your friend...search a products MSDS and check out the solution's percentages and a bit of math allows you a good idea of how much of what is in there.
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:58 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
I don't myself but you could if you have concerns. By "gunk", I assume you mean the solid bits? Out the exhaust.



If by "gunk" you mean a liquid...Mineral spirits and NAPHTHA are already found in oil treatments and additives in small amounts, so if a tiny bit passes by piston rings or valve seals, it will likely evaporate shortly. Most important, I feel, is to allow the thing to idle for up to ten minutes following the treatment...followed by a gentle drive for about the same time. Just to ensure all is well lubed and debris is clear. I try to remain under 3k rpm at all times until I have done a good long idle and for the following drive. Also, I do not have a Cat but if there was a Cat, the heat on the cat (1200F to 1600F) should turn everything to ash. Plus, any debris on the Cat will increase the temps aiding in this process.



I only considered doing my own method after having seen 3M, CRC, and BG44K Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaners and methods all being a blowby type. I just looked at their MSDS's to discover they all used spirits or NAPHTHA mixed with fuel so to come up with my own solution and to avoid having to disconnect the throttle-body hose from the throttle-body per their applications.



I have on two occasions(at 75k and 150k miles) added an ounce(two tablespoons) of spirits to my oil when I am about 100 to 200 miles from changing my oil. I drive gently of course...but to just give it a cleaning inside after those intervals of miles. MSDS can be your friend...search a products MSDS and check out the solution's percentages and a bit of math allows you a good idea of how much of what is in there.


I use AMSOIL Power Foam to do this process and it does work. Was advised to change oil after the process thats why i was asking, different people different opinions of course and I respect yours. Sound valid in what you said. Not sure if it applies to me whilst using power foam inserts of minerals, any thoughts?


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Old 05-24-2019, 09:00 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
I don't myself but you could if you have concerns. By "gunk", I assume you mean the solid bits? Out the exhaust.



If by "gunk" you mean a liquid...Mineral spirits and NAPHTHA are already found in oil treatments and additives in small amounts, so if a tiny bit passes by piston rings or valve seals, it will likely evaporate shortly. Most important, I feel, is to allow the thing to idle for up to ten minutes following the treatment...followed by a gentle drive for about the same time. Just to ensure all is well lubed and debris is clear. I try to remain under 3k rpm at all times until I have done a good long idle and for the following drive. Also, I do not have a Cat but if there was a Cat, the heat on the cat (1200F to 1600F) should turn everything to ash. Plus, any debris on the Cat will increase the temps aiding in this process.



I only considered doing my own method after having seen 3M, CRC, and BG44K Direct Injection Intake Valve Cleaners and methods all being a blowby type. I just looked at their MSDS's to discover they all used spirits or NAPHTHA mixed with fuel so to come up with my own solution and to avoid having to disconnect the throttle-body hose from the throttle-body per their applications.



I have on two occasions(at 75k and 150k miles) added an ounce(two tablespoons) of spirits to my oil when I am about 100 to 200 miles from changing my oil. I drive gently of course...but to just give it a cleaning inside after those intervals of miles. MSDS can be your friend...search a products MSDS and check out the solution's percentages and a bit of math allows you a good idea of how much of what is in there.


Also, do you crank the side to crank the valve down each time? So it touches the top part of the valves


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Old 05-25-2019, 05:11 AM   #11
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Do you need to change the oil after this process? I would imagine the gunk falling into the oil?


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Lol i just realized i am one of ur subscribers on YouTube. Great videos btw very helpful


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Old 05-25-2019, 07:01 PM   #12
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Also, do you crank the side to crank the valve down each time? So it touches the top part of the valves
Not sure what this means...the engine is running when doing the blow-by in my diy vid...and the fuel/solvent solution contacts everything air does while passing from the intake manifold into the combustion chamber.

I assume the instructions you have do not have the engine running, yes? If they have you injecting their product while not running...I would follow those instructions. Those products I mentioned, CRC-BG44K-3M, all inject while running.

Quote:
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Lol i just realized i am one of ur subscribers on YouTube. Great videos btw very helpful
LOL, thanks.

OK, I just looked at Power Foam instruction:

Directions

Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray.
Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area.
Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner assembly.
While engine is running, spray foam directly into throttle body as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process.
Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.
Replace air cleaner.
Restart engine. Repeat application of Power Foam as needed.

So, your engine should be running and already up to operating temps when you begin.
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Old 05-25-2019, 08:24 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by ROH ECHT View Post
Not sure what this means...the engine is running when doing the blow-by in my diy vid...and the fuel/solvent solution contacts everything air does while passing from the intake manifold into the combustion chamber.



I assume the instructions you have do not have the engine running, yes? If they have you injecting their product while not running...I would follow those instructions. Those products I mentioned, CRC-BG44K-3M, all inject while running.



LOL, thanks.



OK, I just looked at Power Foam instruction:



Directions



Protect painted surfaces and mass airflow sensors (MAF) from spray.

Ensure application is in a well-ventilated area.

Run engine to normal operating temperature and remove air cleaner assembly.

While engine is running, spray foam directly into throttle body as fast as possible without stalling engine. It is common to have to rev the engine above idle to facilitate this process.

Shut off engine and allow to sit for 10-15 minutes.

Replace air cleaner.

Restart engine. Repeat application of Power Foam as needed.



So, your engine should be running and already up to operating temps when you begin.


Yea my engine was running with those procedures, sorry didnt mentioned that. Got mixed up with another video that manually took the manifold off to scrape the carbons.
Its a pretty good product IMO and does its job.


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Old 05-26-2019, 12:30 AM   #14
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Oh, OK.
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Old 05-26-2019, 12:38 AM   #15
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Oh, OK.


With AMSOIL Power Foam, whats your opinion whether to change oil or not?


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Old 05-26-2019, 10:29 PM   #16
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Here's the ingredients:

Solvent Naphtha≥25 - ≤50
Distillates, hydrotreated heavy naphthenic≥10 - ≤25
Butoxyethanol≥10 - ≤20
Morpholine≥1 - <3

...so it is 4.5oz to 9oz NAPHTHA in its 18oz can. NAPHTHA dries quicker than mineral spirits, so no. I don't think you need to change the oil immediately after. I would always recommend going 50 or more miles before doing an oil change following a valve blow-by. Also...try keeping it under 3k rpm for more than 15 minutes or so to allow the solvent to dry and lubrication to re-coat all it should.
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