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Old 05-16-2018, 05:17 PM   #1
Tehred5pade
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P052A *rough idle*

2012 cc 2.0 tsi (stock as your grandmas cc)

so i drove the car home from work and car was fine. this morning i go to drive to work and it idles rough, so i shut it down and drive my truck.

just got home and looked at the cel codes and got p050, so i unplugged my maf and started up again and still chugged. i then took the intake filter box out and started up again just in case the charcoal crap thing may have been messing with it and still rough idle but this time i got misfires in all 4 cylinders and then p05a popped up. clearly something with timing now. i do not want to unplug the cam sensor to force it into limp mode because im 99.99999% sure its not a bad cam sensor.

so im at a cross road, has anyone had good luck with this code. ive called 3 shops and all basically quoting me about $6k for a new engine if there was a valve kiss. if no kissing happened, it will be about $3k.

im almost thinking of doing a k series swap... or parting out the dsg and few other parts and buying something else if i cant figure something out.

any advice? i know tldr

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Old 05-16-2018, 08:47 PM   #2
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P025a...that's fuel pump control module, right? Does it come back after codes are cleared? If so, first try cleaning the wiring connectors above the fuel pump between the control module and pump at the top of the tank...under the back seat.

P050 and P05a I cannot even find...so please confirm those are correct please...but if one is P050A, you need to search for a post-MAF leak. This could even include a split/crack in the seams of the intake manifold. I would test your PCV as well.
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:01 PM   #3
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P025a...that's fuel pump control module, right? Does it come back after codes are cleared? If so, first try cleaning the wiring connectors above the fuel pump between the control module and pump at the top of the tank...under the back seat.

P050 and P05a I cannot even find...so please confirm those are correct please...but if one is P050A, you need to search for a post-MAF leak. This could even include a split/crack in the seams of the intake manifold. I would test your PCV as well.
Sorry, meant p052a and p050a. Any idea what could be causing this? I'm not in a rush to fix it because I'll be leaving for about 9mons soon anyways
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:17 PM   #4
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Which came first...check time stamp or mileage stamp if either are available?
P050A is usually a leak post MAF sensor and so the MAF reports very little air to the ECU.
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:21 PM   #5
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Which came first...check time stamp or mileage stamp if either are available?
P050A is usually a leak post MAF sensor and so the MAF reports very little air to the ECU.
P050a... Which is why I unplugged the maf. Doing that forces the ECU to go by the map. When I unplugged it I got a p0100 obviously but that's fine... The p052a scares me.
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:31 PM   #6
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That one may most likely be the N205 on the cam chain adjuster cover. It is one of the easiest bits to swap.
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:37 PM   #7
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That one may most likely be the N205 on the cam chain adjuster cover. It is one of the easiest bits to swap.
So you don't think I jumped a tooth? I've changed one of those before... Installed my intake and dropped it on it and cracked it.

I guess it's worth a shot. I'll order one now. Worse case I'm out a few bucks I guess
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:42 PM   #8
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Unfortunately there's no way to check it. You have to trust the code on this one. You would have misfire codes if it jumped. Try spraying its wiring connectors first. If it doesn't idle better, then do a swap. Probably need to inspect the chain adjuster though...all of its poly may be gone. You can or should be able to look at the adjuster data to see how much it is adjusting. It gives that data in percentages...so obviously 100% means it is trying to adjust and is maxed out.
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:47 PM   #9
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Unfortunately there's no way to check it. You have to trust the code on this one. You would have misfire codes if it jumped. Try spraying its wiring connectors first. If it doesn't idle better, then do a swap. Probably need to inspect the chain adjuster though...all of its poly may be gone. You can or should be able to look at the adjuster data to see how much it is adjusting. It gives that data in percentages...so obviously 100% means it is trying to adjust and is maxed out.
Okay. I do have misfires in all 4 cylinders though... Might be from the p050a code though when it was idling too low and stalled. I don't want to take the cover off yet though because the seal isn't reusable. I'll see if my cheap Amazon OBD2 reader can see the timing chain tensioner adjustments... Highly doubtful. So if the n205 doesn't fix it, I'll be popping the dust cover off and inspecting the rails I guess
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Old 05-17-2018, 03:47 AM   #10
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Yeah, most likely. There's always two ways to go about it. Check hardware and then replace sensors...and there's the reverse.
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Old 05-20-2018, 05:49 PM   #11
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little update....

n205 didnt fix my issue. i am looking at taking the head off and replacing valves and pistons most likely or either parting out the car.

this stuff will have to wait though as i go to korea soon and wont be home till this time next year. at that point ill decide whether i want to rebuild and sell, do a built motor and bt because why the ef not, k series swap because why the ef not at this point, or part the pos out. car is in perfect condition, just jumped a few teeth on the timing is all but these cars arent worth anything and tsi engines are hella expensive.
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Old 05-20-2018, 11:14 PM   #12
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Remove the cam tensioner cover and check cam alignment to confirm it jumped teeth when you begin after you return...good luck.
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Old 08-01-2018, 06:33 PM   #13
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just got back from a little deployment and bought a borescope and the valves didnt kiss the pistons... so looks like i just need to start on timing chain kit job. ecs tuning has them for $540, so thats a lot easier on the wallet than replacing the motor. might need help installing it. im not in a rush... have till january to get it installed. right now i have a broken wrist so i cant do too much anyways
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Old 08-05-2018, 03:01 PM   #14
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took the cam timing chain cover off to inspect how far off timing it is. i couldnt find the copper link closest to the intake side but the exhaust was 5 links off. if the exhaust side was pointing straight up, the intake side is sitting at about 1:30. its worse than i thought but thankfully no valves kissed
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:57 PM   #15
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Yeah, very good they didn't. Cam alignment check is always best in checking this. Hope all is fine when completed with the task.
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Old 08-07-2018, 12:31 PM   #16
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Yeah, plan on buying an engine brace and start repairing it. What do you think about just replacing the chain tensioner and gaskets? Chain seems fine and rails look good too but I've never done a timing job and don't know if that's a good idea or not
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Old 08-26-2018, 05:04 PM   #17
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alright, finally coming back to the cc to work on it a little here and there and bought an engine brace to start taking the timing chain off.

i took the engine mount off but cant figure out how to get the lower portion off. my instructions just say remove subframe mount bolts (the 2 bolts facing downwards on the engine mount) but i cant find out anything about removing the subframe thing on the side of the engine.

maybe this isnt required... idk.
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Old 08-26-2018, 09:44 PM   #18
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found the bolt size... its an m12 for future reference if that 1 person comes along in 5yrs and just happens to have the same stupid issue ha
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