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Without/With Catch Can (Atmo) Comparison Pictures + Discussion

BSH Speedshop

Ready to race!
Location
Speedshop, Az
The concept of a catch can being mainly/solely for prevention of carbon build up is something that is completely exclusive to the D/I platforms. Traditional use has been always been completely different.

As the O/P is running a VTA system, regardless of what anyone wants to say, has almost 0 to do with the PCV system in which a catch can system compliments. The reduction in buildup shows the catch can aided in pro longing it for what its worth, but the real issue is within the design of the cylinder head itself.

The real place for a catch can on a performance minded turbo charged engine is to keep oil vapor out of your combustion chamber and out of your charge pipes/intercooler. The BT guys and highly pushed stock turbo guys will see this on the most major scale.
 

Chris@RT

Banned
Location
ga
Wasn't clarified in the post but when the can went in were the valves cleaned so the comparison is starting from scratch? Or are the pics at ~88K a total accumulation?

I do agree that it appears there may be an issue with the valve stem seals. This is something that i think many are overlooking automatically blaming issues on the PCV/EGR. In many cases valve stem seal issues are masked by the fact that the injectors are washing off the intake valves. The 1.8ts sometimes it can be easy to spot since the center valve will have build up but not the outer two which are washed by the injectors. Also the fact that even stock cars can smoke a bit with no cat installed you don't often get the tell tale blue puffs when the engine is cold like you do on a manifold injection car. It is not an easy job so understandable most are not jumping to do it, but it may eventually be more evident that it is an issue.
 

dustinwark

Miesian
Location
Portland
Car(s)
'07 VW GTI
Wasn't clarified in the post but when the can went in were the valves cleaned so the comparison is starting from scratch? Or are the pics at ~88K a total accumulation?

IIRC he posted a thread a while back (maybe 38k miles back) were his valves were cleaned
 
Location
Toronto
wat would be interesting now is to have someone compare these valves with someone who did Saaber's DIY and routed recirc back into the exhaust...
 

staulkor

V-Dubber
Location
Tempe, Arizona
Car(s)
VW GTI MkV Fahrenhei
The concept of a catch can being mainly/solely for prevention of carbon build up is something that is completely exclusive to the D/I platforms. Traditional use has been always been completely different.

As the O/P is running a VTA system, regardless of what anyone wants to say, has almost 0 to do with the PCV system in which a catch can system compliments. The reduction in buildup shows the catch can aided in pro longing it for what its worth, but the real issue is within the design of the cylinder head itself.

The real place for a catch can on a performance minded turbo charged engine is to keep oil vapor out of your combustion chamber and out of your charge pipes/intercooler. The BT guys and highly pushed stock turbo guys will see this on the most major scale.

I totally forgot to mention this. Catch cans do a great job at that. Always have an always will. I am just sharing what I found about their ability to alleviate carbon build up on this platform.

Wasn't clarified in the post but when the can went in were the valves cleaned so the comparison is starting from scratch? Or are the pics at ~88K a total accumulation?

Sorry, I should have been more clear. The intake valves were cleaned at 50k miles then again 38k miles at 88k miles. The pictures show the difference between what with 50k of build up vs 38k of build up.
 

Chris@RT

Banned
Location
ga
Sorry, I should have been more clear. The intake valves were cleaned at 50k miles then again 38k miles at 88k miles. The pictures show the difference between what with 50k of build up vs 38k of build up.

No biggy was just curious since there was no mention of it but I thought I did recall the post linked to later about you cleaning them so just wanted to make sure i knew exactly what I was looking at.
 

Flapenn

2011 Wheel Gap Champion
Location
Long Beach
idk how your engine bay got that dirty....i have a bsh vta cc but i go under the hood at least once a week with a rag and clean that crap up, i could see how it might get that dirty eventually but that would involve lack of cleaning.

a simple wipe down of everything under the hood keeps things looking nice :thumbsup:
 

sirsycott

Vagcom In OC = Me
Location
ORANGE COUNTY
hmm your cylander 1 valve 1-2 looks worse than the before pictures, and cylander 4 looks the same as well,

i'm curious as to what it would've looked like after 50k instead of 38k

however your cylander 2 and 3 looks better towards the base...


i've been vent to exhaust , using saaber's method since 50k after cleaning my valves, when i have another 30k miles , i'll chime in.

still looks like the VTA helps only a little
 

staulkor

V-Dubber
Location
Tempe, Arizona
Car(s)
VW GTI MkV Fahrenhei
When I cleaned the valves the first time, there was a lot of carbon on the valves, and not as much on the walls. When I cleaned them yesterday, there was much more on the walls, and less on the valves. Dont know what this means, but I found it interesting.
 

staulkor

V-Dubber
Location
Tempe, Arizona
Car(s)
VW GTI MkV Fahrenhei
Another thing I forgot to mention is that all the charge piping was squeaky clean with no oil whatsoever. I will try to get pics in the next few days.
 

sirsycott

Vagcom In OC = Me
Location
ORANGE COUNTY
Another thing I forgot to mention is that all the charge piping was squeaky clean with no oil whatsoever. I will try to get pics in the next few days.

yeah, all that oil is in your engine bay :bellyroll:

has to go somewhere right?

on a serious note though, have you noticed any squeeking by your timing belt?

a few VTA guys over in my area have so much oil in the bay , two of them have had squeeky timing belts, and had to have them replaced, one guy had it on since 10k miles, dealer replaced belt for him, tensioner and roller, at 35k, the other guy had 40k replacement, and catch can on at 30k miles

rubber belts dont like rubber from what i recall
 
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