V
Whiteline suspension products……..
- Thread starter rysskii3
- Start date
I dont blame ya at all
its a great bar, but this deal is sweeter, so the bsh bar has to go:thumbsup:
bRett 32
Ready to race!
- Location
- Redwood City, CA
Rear bars aside you should certainly be able to feel (and see) what the WALK does for your car. The steering feel and front traction will be noticeably improved.
As for going from a large rear bar to 24mm front and rear, you'll likely lose some lift-throttle rotation but pick up some grip and balance in steady-state cornering. Both bars are adjustable so you'll be able to dial in the balance to your liking, if you're a big autocrosser you may miss the rotation of the rear end, but if your car spends more time on the track it will almost certainly be quicker and more predictable.
As for going from a large rear bar to 24mm front and rear, you'll likely lose some lift-throttle rotation but pick up some grip and balance in steady-state cornering. Both bars are adjustable so you'll be able to dial in the balance to your liking, if you're a big autocrosser you may miss the rotation of the rear end, but if your car spends more time on the track it will almost certainly be quicker and more predictable.
:thumbsup: would would be the best setting on both bars if i want it to perform like on a track but also be daily car? and i def dont want understeer. i was thining soft on front bar and full stiff on the rear bar
bRett 32
Ready to race!
- Location
- Redwood City, CA
Not to take the easy out, but its really going to depend on your preferences and driving style.
If you want to look at the adjustment options in terms of a given setup you liked previously, or something others are running and liking - Whiteline's rule of thumb is; on their 3-point adjustable bars, using the center hole will give you the anti-roll characteristics of the given diameter of your par - in this case the bars are 24mm, so using the center hole gives you the effective performance of a 24mm bar - move one hole stiffer and you get the effective performance of a 25mm bar - move to the furthest outboard hole and you have the effective performance of a 23mm bar.
*you can probably use this as a rough approximation on other brands of solid sway bars, but Whiteline is the only company I know of that deliberately calculates the placement of their adjustment holes in this manner.
I understand that you don't want understeer, and I would agree that the OEM setup pushes early and often - but this is where we get into personal preference. I tried to get my car as neutral as possible washing into understeer as the tires gave way - to me that is the easiest and most predictable way to drive the car - you can let the car take its set and dial in power until the front begins to lose grip and bring it back on-line with throttle inputs. I ran with the front bar in the middle position, and the rear bar in either the middle or stiff position with stock shocks and springs as I had no adjustments to ride height or dampening.
If you want the car to yaw more you can play with tire pressures, alignment specs, dampening adjustments, as well as softening the front bar. You may also find that where you needed lots of bar to get the car to rotate before, you may need slightly less now as the WALK will give you some additional front-end traction/grip and improve turn-in precision slightly.
The adjustments are pretty quick and easy, so the best answer is to get some time behind the wheel and do what makes you most comfortable.
If you want to look at the adjustment options in terms of a given setup you liked previously, or something others are running and liking - Whiteline's rule of thumb is; on their 3-point adjustable bars, using the center hole will give you the anti-roll characteristics of the given diameter of your par - in this case the bars are 24mm, so using the center hole gives you the effective performance of a 24mm bar - move one hole stiffer and you get the effective performance of a 25mm bar - move to the furthest outboard hole and you have the effective performance of a 23mm bar.
*you can probably use this as a rough approximation on other brands of solid sway bars, but Whiteline is the only company I know of that deliberately calculates the placement of their adjustment holes in this manner.
I understand that you don't want understeer, and I would agree that the OEM setup pushes early and often - but this is where we get into personal preference. I tried to get my car as neutral as possible washing into understeer as the tires gave way - to me that is the easiest and most predictable way to drive the car - you can let the car take its set and dial in power until the front begins to lose grip and bring it back on-line with throttle inputs. I ran with the front bar in the middle position, and the rear bar in either the middle or stiff position with stock shocks and springs as I had no adjustments to ride height or dampening.
If you want the car to yaw more you can play with tire pressures, alignment specs, dampening adjustments, as well as softening the front bar. You may also find that where you needed lots of bar to get the car to rotate before, you may need slightly less now as the WALK will give you some additional front-end traction/grip and improve turn-in precision slightly.
The adjustments are pretty quick and easy, so the best answer is to get some time behind the wheel and do what makes you most comfortable.
i guess ill just play with it till i get it right. cant waut to get all of it installed. thanx man!
GodSquadMandrake
Radioactive Rotary Rocket
- Location
- Minneapolis
Hmmm. I put the APR 27mm hollow rear bar on, stock fsb, WALK, and mine is really reluctant to oversteer unless I'm really trying hard. Even with the Bilstein PSS9's set on full hard in the rear, 6 in the front, 40 PSI in the rear and 32 psi in the front tires. Stock alignment though. I think I just need a higher rear spring rate.
bRett 32
Ready to race!
- Location
- Redwood City, CA
Do you have your alignment specs? if the rear is toed-in it may make the car reluctant to rotate.
Also while your APR bar is listed as a 27mm if I recall their bars are hollow - which means to know the effective diameter you need to know the wall thickness of the steel they are using. The effective diameter of a hollow bar is the outer diameter less the inner diameter. So if the OD is 27mm, but the ID is 6mm your effective bar diameter is only 21mm ........ the length of the lever arms and positions of the end link attachment holes must also be considered, but generally speaking a 27mm hollow bar and a 27mm solid bar for the same application will not yield the same increase in roll stiffness.
Also while your APR bar is listed as a 27mm if I recall their bars are hollow - which means to know the effective diameter you need to know the wall thickness of the steel they are using. The effective diameter of a hollow bar is the outer diameter less the inner diameter. So if the OD is 27mm, but the ID is 6mm your effective bar diameter is only 21mm ........ the length of the lever arms and positions of the end link attachment holes must also be considered, but generally speaking a 27mm hollow bar and a 27mm solid bar for the same application will not yield the same increase in roll stiffness.
hahaha, APR sucks:thumbsup:
bRett 32
Ready to race!
- Location
- Redwood City, CA
Nothing wrong w/ hollow bars - you'll hear some people swear by one or the other (solid or hollow) - my point was that solid and hollow bars of the same diameter aren't apples-to-apples comparable.
I believe the APR bars are private-label Hotchkis bars (which you'll find a number of tuners do) so they partnered w/ a reputable brand to supply their bars - I have no issues w/ Hotchkis or APR, I just think highly of the Whiteline stuff.
I believe the APR bars are private-label Hotchkis bars (which you'll find a number of tuners do) so they partnered w/ a reputable brand to supply their bars - I have no issues w/ Hotchkis or APR, I just think highly of the Whiteline stuff.
i have heard good things from a few mk4 and subi guys. cant wait to try out the other stuff thats on the site