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Turbo is done, now what?

buyingconstant7

Ready to race!
Location
Calgary, AB
Car(s)
2007 GTI 3 Door 6spd
Since I bought this car a year ago, I've had a weird boost issue. Car sometimes felt slow, sometimes felt normal. No codes or anything. In full boost, it would majorly surge, followed by a small power cut, throughout the rev band. Thought it was diverter valve, nope. My wastegate actuator rod has play. Since it's internally wastegated, I guess it's time for a turbo. I can get a known good OEM used K03 replacement for $550. Or should I upgrade? People are saying to ditch the car and go new or something else. I love this car and see it's potential. It does need some work, I need a RR brake caliper, rear pads and rotors, a passenger front CV axle soon, needs tires and an alignment, and my subframe clunks REAL bad. And now this, but I can still drive the car. Ditch car? Get just a K03? Or upgrade? If I were to upgrade what should I get?? K04? I don't want to ruin my bank account.
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
I would first test the resistance of the N75-boost control valve. It should be 25 ohm-minimum across its two pins. It is mounted on the turbo, just unplug it and ohm test it. I would also test the pcv. It can leak boost, so you just blow into the PCV to intake manifold tube after disconnecting the tube from the manifold. I would check all else that can leak boost...boost plumbing connections and the intake manifold.

I wouldn't replace the turbo without inspecting it. If you have a bore-scope, you can remove the turbo outlet and scope the compressor and the down-pipe can be removed and you can also check the turbine condition and waste-gate for damage or play.

You didn't mention if you checked the error/fault codes. I assume you have no way to look at its running data, correct?
 

MagicMK

Drag Racing Champion
Location
PA
It really doesn't make any sense that the Turbo would fail and you'd get absolutely no codes. If you're talking about installing a Turbo, which is a serious undertaking, then you should hopefully have the Ross Tech software or a high end scanner. You need to check ALL of the body and engine codes, not just codes that trigger a CEL. A failed turbo (if it even is that) should be causing a whole s-load of trouble codes.
 
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