Spark plug torque.

[Deadhead77]

Hey all, I am planning on replacing my spark plugs and coils, and I had some questions.
1: what is the torque spec on the plugs
2: I have read a bunch of stuff regarding NGK VS BOSCH oem.
So due to all the BS going on in the world today, I could only get BOSCH coils and I have NGK PLUGS.
Are there any issues with this combo of parts?

 

[ROH ECHT]

It's 22 lb*ft or 30 Nm. So you have for any other torque specs...plugs are on page 36: https://blogvager.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/10-audi_a3_qsb_web.pdf

Have you posted this question elsewhere? Seems recently familiar.
Crack the plugs loose...but just to 1/8 turn. Replace the coils and start it and rev it once to mid-revs (3k rpm). Then shut it off and remove the plugs. This can/may help keep loosened carbon from being relocated into the threads in the aluminum head.

Should be no issue on the combo. Just double check the gap of the plugs before installing them. Should be 0.028" if tuned, or to 0.031" if stock and non-tuned.

 

[MagicMK]

As an FYI, make sure you're using a good torque wrench when torquing into the aluminum head. I have the Hayne's book with all of the torque specs, but I know off hand it's in the low to mid 20's, so ROH's 22 ft lbs sounds correct. I've read good things about the NGK Iridiums, but I installed OE Bosh plugs that I got from FCP. Their site tells you which part are original equipment on the car, which is a neat feature... even if you buy somewhere else. Bosh is the OE on the coils as well, I believe. Back to the torque wrench. A lot of people are using Harbor Freight torque wrenches. I love HF and all, but I did have a 3/8 I used that way over-torqued a ball joint nut and caused it to strip because the wrench never "clicked." Personally, I like the digital wrenches because you can see the torque progression on the screen vs simply waiting for a "click."