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So you want to start modifying?

Goingnowherefast

Go Kart Champion
Location
Walled Lake, MI
Modifying your car $100 dollars at a time…

V1.1 12/18/14 With updated tune information
V1.2 1/1/15 updated with tire information
V1.3 7/26/15 updated with cheap K04 DIY and Upgrade Paths

There’s always people asking how to and where to start modifying their car so I’m going to be compiling a thread of information and links to get people started. First things first, what engine do you have? Open up your bay and look on top of the cover it will either say FSI (2006-8.5) or TSI (2008.5-2009). This guide is mainly for FSI engines.

Engine:

Tunes: Also known as “chips” even though that definition is incorrect. This is the best bang for buck when it comes to easy power gain with little/no modification. There are 5 main options for tuning and all of them offer tunes for bone stock cars to bigger turbo/full bolt-on cars. For the average enthusiast there is also “stages” of tunes, in which the tune will be tailored to a specific set of modifications not you individual car.

-APR: Audi performance racing is a US based company that specializes in most VAG applications. (http://www.goapr.com/) APR tunes through the OBDII port and programs are switched through the cruise control stalk. APR offers stages of upgrades:
• Stage 1: Modifications necessary: none. A tune for a bone stock car that removes the rev limiter and increases boost and modifies timing.
• Stage 2: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe. A tune for a car with just an exhaust; Note: only downpipe is required.
• Stage 2+: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe + upgraded HPFP. A tune for cars with a bit more exhaust flow and fueling.
• Stage 3: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe + upgraded HPFP + APR manifold and GTX2867R Turbo. A tune for cars running a bigger than stock turbo.
• K04 tunes: APR offers many different tunes for the K04 turbo.

-DM: Driver’s Motorsport is an upcoming tuning company offering custom tunes and “staged” tunes at low prices. (http://www.drivermotorsport.com/) Stages are mostly the same as APR but again they are tailor made to your car. They offer heavy E47 support and F23T support as well and have had great reception so far. Tunes can be applied by either sending your unit to Drivers Motorsport or you can buy a handheld programmer that will allow you to flash in the convenience of your driveway.
• Stage 1: Modifications necessary: none. A tune for a bone stock car that removes the rev limiter and increases boost and modifies timing.
• Stage 2: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe and intake. A tune for a car with just an exhaust; Note: only downpipe and intake is required.
• Stage 2+: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe, intake and fuel pump. A tune for a car with just an exhaust; Note: only downpipe, intake and fuel pump is required.
• Tunes for just about any turbo you want (K04, F23T)

-Revo Technik: Revo is a European tuning company that specializes in Volkswagen group and Ford group vehicles. They offer staged upgrades as well and they are basically similar to APR and Unitronic (http://www.revotechnik.com/). Tunes can be uploaded through the OBDII or you can purchase a SPS programmer which will allow you to change tunes on the go and tweak several parameters.
• Stage 1: Modifications necessary: none. A tune for a bone stock car that removes the rev limiter and increases boost and modifies timing.
• Stage 2: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe and intake. A tune for a car with just an exhaust; Note: only downpipe and intake is required.
• Stage 2+: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe, intake and fuel pump. A tune for a car with just an exhaust; Note: only downpipe, intake and fuel pump is required.
• Stage 3: A tune for K04 applications and all of the latter.
• Stage 4: A tune for all the above but with a GT3071R turbo.
• Stage 5: A tune for engines with upgraded internals, bolt-ons and the GT3071R turbo.

-Unitronic: Unitronic is a large tuning company specializing in the VAG platform. They offer staged tunes for our cars ranging from just a reflash to big turbo tunes. Tunes are done through the OBDII port, but you can also purchase UniConnect which allows on the go program switching at your convenience.
• Stage 1: Modifications necessary: none. A tune for a bone stock car that removes the rev limiter and increases boost and modifies timing.
• Stage 1+: Modifications necessary: Intake. A tune for a car with only an intake system.
• Stage 2: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe. A tune for a car with just an exhaust; Note: only downpipe is required.
• Stage 2 HPFP: Modifications necessary: 2.75-3.0 inch downpipe + upgraded HPFP. A tune for cars with a bit more exhaust flow and fueling.
• Stage 2+: Modifications necessary: Downpipe, intake, S3 injectors, HPFP and K04 Turbo.
• Stage 3: Modifications necessary: Downpipe, intake, RS4 injectors, HPFP, a larger turbo of your choice.

-GIAC: Another tuner with over 20 years of experience with many different platforms. They offer stages a bit unlike the other major tuners. (http://www.giacusa.com/products/software/) Tunes are flashed through the OBDII port or a Flashloader can be purchased to changes tunes at your convenience.

• Stage Xplus: Modifications necessary: None. A tune for stock cars. (Note: Downpipe and intake is recommeded)
• Stage X2: Modifications necessary:Intake, Downpipe, HPFP, inter-cooler. A tune for a nearly full bolt-on car.
• Stage X3T04: Modifications necessary: K04, Downpipe, Intercooler, intake, HPFP. A tune for a K04 turbo and supporting mods.

There are many more tuning companies available to check out like: Eurodyne, .dotuning, UM, Gonzo etc.

Intakes: More air means more power and there is a wide variety of intakes available that will accomplish this. Our stock intakes actually flow quite well compared to other cars hence why an intake is not necessary for most of the “off the shelf tunes”, but more air is never a bad thing. Intakes are cheap and there are many to choose from but here’s just a couple to get you started.

-CTS (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_Turbo_MK5_FSI_Air_Intake_System-3416-0.html)
-Neuspeed (http://www.neuspeed.com/651097-neuspeed-p-flo-air-intake-kit.html)
- APR (http://www.goapr.com/products/intake_carbonio_20tfsi.html)

Exhausts: For turbo cars there are two main sections that will be talked about with our applications (Cat-backs and downpipes). As the name suggests a downpipe is the section of exhaust that connects from the turbo to past the cats. Also as the name suggests a cat-back is the portion of exhaust that runs from behind the cats (hence cat-back) to the tips. On our cars 90% of the power gain will be had through changing of the downpipe. The stock cat-back flows quite well all things considered. The golden rule for exhausts on our cars is downpipe for power, cat-back for sound. (Note: Turbobacks are both combined AKA a full system)

-Downpipes: Here are just a few popular downpipe options ranging from 2.5-3.0 inches.

• Eurojet (http://www.eurojetracing.com/exhausts/20t/mk5mk6-gtijetta-gli-20t-modular-v-banded-downpipe)
• Euro customs (http://eurocustomstuning.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=31)
• Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mkv-gti-downpipe)
• AWE (http://www.awe-tuning.com/awe-fsi-downpipe-w-ceramic-cat)

-Cat-backs: Here are a few cat-back options.

• CTS (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/CTS_Turbo_VW_MK5_GTI_3_Cat_back_Exhaust-3428-99.html)
• Magnaflow (http://www.uspmotorsports.com/MagnaflowExhaust-cat-back--MKVGTI2.0T.html)
• Autotech (http://www.autotech.com/product/stainless-steel-exhaust/10-297-500K.html?fromcat=)
• Milltek (http://www.millteksport.com/exhaust.products.cfm?variantid=159#.U1fPv_ldXE0)

HPFP upgrade: Stands for high pressure fuel pump. I won’t get into the operation of a direct injection engine too much but basically there are two fuel pumps, a high pressure and a low pressure. For our engines the high pressure fuel pump has a really hard time flowing high rates of fuel at low RPM high load scenarios as well as high hp applications. A few different options exist, some being DIY internals and others being complete pumps.

-APR HPFP: They have two options available either a complete brand new pump with their internals or you can send in your stock unit and they will upgrade it. (http://www.goapr.com/products/fsi_fuel_pump.html)
-Autotech: They sell DIY internals and will also upgrade your stock unit for $50. (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Engine/Fuel/Pump/ES2226090/)
-HPFP upgrades: They sell DIY internals and full pumps.
(http://hpfpupgrade.com/BrowseProducts/Show/Volkswagen/2.0T+FSI)

Water/meth: A lot of tuners offer a 100 octane “race gas” file. Problem is nobody is going to be normally running race gas in our cars as A. It’s expensive and B. It’s not a racecar. The list of benefits that a water/meth setup are vast but mainly you will see lower intake charge temps and will have the ability to advance timing. I.E. you can run the 100 octane file successfully with water/meth and 93 octane gas. There are few good options for this but it may require a good amount of install work and adjusting to get right but are extremely rewarding.

- There are a few main kits but before you buy W/M id recommend checking out this thread http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50805 which has all you need to know about water/meth with our applications.
 
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Goingnowherefast

Go Kart Champion
Location
Walled Lake, MI
Intercooler: Upgrading to a larger intercooler can decrease charge air temperatures and help resist heat soak better than the stock intercooler. This is turn means that you can make more power and maintain it for longer on hot days. There are very popular options around, some of the most popular are straight off of the MK6 Golf R and Audi S3.

• Forge (http://www.forgemotorsport.com/content.asp?inc=product&product=FMINTMK5&cat)
• Golf R (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Engine/Performance/Intercooler/ES2191795/)
• S3 (Pretty much same as R but it has metal end tanks) (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Engine/Performance/Intercooler/ES2079244/)

Turbochargers:
This will be a huge topic because long story short his is how our little 2 liter four cylinder can make over 400-500whp with the right setup. A turbocharger uses exhaust gases to spin a turbine which is connected to a compressor. This compressor then sucks in air at a much higher rate than what it possible with a “naturally aspirated” application. The amount of pressure the turbocharger is producing can be measured in PSI or BAR with a boost gauge. Note: A boost gauge should literally be the first modification to do when adding power. Our cars come equipped with a K03 turbo which is good for a punchy 200 horsepower application but it is simply too small to move a large amount of air at high rpms. Choosing a turbocharger that is correct for your application and plans is extremely important. Finding out what your end goal is power wise is integral, for instance, if you just cruise around town and only attend local autoX and track days you may want a smaller frame K04 turbocharger or F23T. If you’re building a tire shredding drag beast or highway hero you may want to select a large frame turbocharger like the GT30+ series.

In short…

Big turbos: More power but at higher rpm, longer spool up time.
Small turbos: Less power but accessible at a lower rpm, faster spool up time.
Here are a few popular options: (Kits are available from major tuners above) Smallest to largest

• K04 from Audi S3 (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Engine/ES263849/)

• F23T (http://www.frankenturbo.com/new/F23T.html)

• GT28RS (http://kmdtuning.com/audi/a3/2-0t-f...si-gt28rs-turbo-kit/prod_2441.html?catId=2225)

• GT3071R (http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-VVW-186&Category_Code=VVWTK)

Driveline:

Making extra power is easy; getting it to the ground with an open diff FWD platform is another story. Here are a few common modifications that will help you put that power down and minimize negative FWD issues like wheel hop.

Dogbone insert/mount: Probably one of the cheapest modifications out there, these will help reduce wheel hop and give you better shifter feel (more direct). There are inserts or you can buy the full mount for even more feel. Keep in mind all engine and transmission mounts could transfer more NVH into the cabin.

• BSH (http://www.redline-motorworks.com/BSH_2_0T_TSI_Torque_Arm_Insert_p/10550103.htm)

Clutch: When adding more power our cars with a manual transmission you have to be aware that the stock clutch can only hold so much torque before slipping. You’ll see stories about people’s clutch slipping with just a tune, others will have no problems with the stock clutch on K04 applications. Tons of factors go into this but basically you are adding more power to a clutch that was rated for maybe 250TQ at best so it’s a good idea to replace it. There’s many options to choose from but be aware, you will have to replace your DMF for almost every clutch with a SMF. Sometimes a really light SMF can produce a “chatter” of sorts and can be annoying for some. Along with this, a lighter clutch and flywheel combo will make your car rev faster and more freely. (Note: DSG users won’t need to worry about this) Here’s a few to choose from:

• SouthBend (http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ecommerce/KFSIF-HD-O.cfm?item_id=3296)
• CM (http://www.esetuning.com/Clutch-Masters-FX350-Stage-3-Clutch-Kit-p/17375-hdff-rh.htm)
• RSR (http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3888)

LSD: The differential allows the car to go around the corner with the outside wheel travelling further than the inside wheel without sliding. This is good for normal driving, but when you drive very heavy footed or when things are slippery, this normal differential allows the one wheel to spin and the other to just sit there and the car goes nowhere. A limited slip differential allows some slip so you can go around corners (like the normal differential) but limits the amount of slipping so when you are driving with a heavy foot or are stuck, the one wheel only spins somewhat before the other starts to pull. Basically in corners a LSD makes your “1 wheel drive” car into a true two wheel drive car. Note: labor is expensive for these but many swear by them. Here’s a few popular options, there is little/no debate on which is best. All of them have very positive reviews for forum users.

• Peloquin (http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=372)
• WaveTrac (http://www.autotech.com/product/wavetrac-differentials/10-309-175WK.html?fromcat=)
• Quaife (http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdf19r-1)

Engine/transmission mount: These help reduce movement between the transmission, engine, and body. They can improve shifter feel, reduce wheel hop at the expense of increased NVH. Here are a few popular options. (Note: some of these include the dogbone mount)
• BSH (http://www.bshspeedshop.com/bshstore/products/BSH-%2d-FSI{47}TSI-Engine-Mount-Package-.html)
• SPM (http://www.modbargains.com/spm-aluminum-engine-mount-kit-mk5-mk6.htm)
• 034 (http://store.034motorsport.com/moto...-volkswagen-8j-8p-audi-2-0t-fsi-3-2l-vr6.html)

Summary: This is just a start to the full guide; handling upgrades will be up next. I tried to be unbiased and use as many noteworthy companies as possible in my examples. If you have any questions, comments feel free to post or PM me.

DISCLAIMER: These are NOT the only products available. They are just examples of popular products used and trusted in the community. Please stop replying with individual parts that I didn't list.

Common phrases:
NVH- Noise, Vibration, and Harshness
VAG- Volkswagen Auto Group
Canned/Off-the-shelf tunes- tunes that aren’t specifically made for your car rather for similar modifications
HPFP- High Pressure fuel pump
DMF- Dual Mass Flywheel
SMF- Single Mass Flywheel
FWD- Front wheel drive
LSD- Limited Slip Differential
 
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Goingnowherefast

Go Kart Champion
Location
Walled Lake, MI
Reserved for later use...

V1.1 12/18/14 With updated tune information
V1.2 1/1/15 updated with tires
V1.3 7/26/15 updated with cheap K04 DIY

TIRES:

DISCLAIMER: Most of the information was found here: (http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162254) Credit goes to Gavin @TireRack

Ask anyone who races or builds cars and ask them what the single most important thing you can do to your car is. Chances are they will say one thing: Tires. One of the first modifications to any car should be tires. Our tires are notoriously bad from the factory; not good for dry performance, not good for wet performance, not good for road noise, in fact the only somewhat respectable thing is the wear rating. Tires should be sized and selected based on your needs and budget. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a set of winter tires if you live in somewhere prone to snow and cold conditions and NEVER EVER drive any summer rated tires in snow and extremely cold temperatures. Below are a few a good examples of tires that fit many different budgets and needs...

What I would recommend in selecting tires is find out what you want in a tire… Do you want a track-able tire? All-Season? High-Performance? Noise level? Wear-rating? Find out what you’re looking for and then search online afterwards. There are tons of online resources and reviews on tires.

Extreme Performance Summer Tires: Tires for those looking for the best possible street legal performance. These tires have the best grip out of all other street legal categories, but sacrifice things like noise, wear-ratings, and wet performance. NOT TO BE DRIVEN IN COLD/SNOWY CONDITIONS
-Dunlop Direzza DZII
-Hankook Ventus R-S3 V2
-Bridgestone Potenza RE-11
-BF Goodrich g-force Rivals
-Yokohama Advan neova AD-08

Ultra-high performance summer tire: Great performing tires that give a little bit of grip up for better wear, noise and wet performance over the Extreme performance tires. NOT TO BE DRIVEN IN COLD/SNOWY CONDITIONS
-Hankook Ventus V12 Evo (Great tire, what I run)
-Michelin Pilot Super Sport
-BF Goodrich g-force Sport Comp 2
-Sumitomo HTR ZIII

Performance All-Season: Versatile tires that provide a compromise between performance and comforts/wear. Can be used in colder temperatures, but I would still recommend winter tires.
-Continental Extreme Contact DWS (Had these before, great tire.)
-Bridgestone Potenza RE970AS Pole Position
-Michelin Pilot Sport AS+

Regular All-Season: Year-round tires that are more oriented to giving you better noise, wear and all-weather usability than performance.
-Michelin Primacy MXM4
-Kumho Ecsta LX Platinum
-General Altimax HP
-Bridgestone Turanza Serenity Plus

Cheapest K04 DIY

K04 is one of the most popular and well balanced big turbo options out there. Sure you can buy kits for lots of money ~2,000+, but the beauty of this platform is that we have a high performance big brother (Golf R and S3) that provide tons of great bolt on upgrades. So if you want to go K04 on a budget (and you do), here's the things you will need for the swap...

1. OEM FSI K04 (Brand new= $1,200, Used Golf R= $400-1000) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...rger/ES263849/
2. K04 Install kit (ECS Tuning, Gaskets, bolts, studs, etc.) ((Brand new= $50)) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Kit/ES1843898/
3. Decent amount of Coolant ($25) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...tem/ES2603000/
4. DV relocation kit ($180-$220) http://www.unitronic-chipped.com/ecu...vrelocationkit
5. Golf R/Aftermarket Turbo Outlet Pipe ($150-$200) http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...oses/ES253022/
6. Specialty tools (Triple squares, M bits)

Totals for essentials: $805-$1,695

After you have acquired all those parts, follow this DIY (http://www.scribd.com/doc/16176692/STaSIS-K04-Install), and afterwords update your tune. Congrats you now have a pretty quick little car!

Goingnowherefast's Recommended Stage Paths

So if you're a new guy and you made it to this point of the thread congrats! I'm assuming your head hasn't exploded with information yet so here's a bit more for you. I have put together a few "stages" of upgrade paths that I would recommend to new guys. DISCLAIMER* This is only my personal opinion and is based off of my personal experiences with these cars.

Stage 0
-Stock (The getting ready to mod stage)
-Regular maintenance done
-Upgraded Rev D Diverter Valve
-R8 Red top coilpacks
-Replace spark plugs
-Check Braking system

Stage 1
-Summer Tires
-Dog-bone mount
-Stage 1 tune

Stage 2
-Summer Tires
-Dog-bone mount
-Engine mount
-Downpipe
-Stage 2 tune

Stage 2+
-Summer Tires
-Dog-bone mount
-Engine mount
-Brake pads and DOT4 fluid
-Rear sway bar
-Downpipe
-Intake
-HPFP
-Stage 2+ tune

Stage 2+ Full-bolt ons
-Summer Tires
-Dog-bone mount
-Engine + Transmission mount
-Brake pads and DOT4 fluid
-Coilovers/Cup Kit/Springs + Dampers
-Golf R Intercooler
-Downpipe
-Cat-back
-Intake
-HPFP
-Meth kit
-Sway Bars
-Stage 2+ tune
 
Last edited:

soze

Go Kart Champion
Location
Orange County, CA
Car(s)
Something Else
forgot GIAC
 

U.G.MKV

Stealth mode
Location
SFL
Car(s)
2007 mkv
Forgot Revo SPS, Giac flash loader, Apr map switching, Dm programmer, And all tunes are not basically like apr. Good write up though.
 

Goingnowherefast

Go Kart Champion
Location
Walled Lake, MI
Added GIAC info and added info about AWE. Will update as time goes on and Ill put how each different tuner delivers their tunes as well.

Keep in mind the links are just popular examples of products, not every product available. There's tons of great products out there not listed though I added AWE and Milltek for you guys
 
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vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas
Forgot Autotech hpfp upgrade
 

Goingnowherefast

Go Kart Champion
Location
Walled Lake, MI
Forgot Autotech hpfp upgrade

"-Autotech: They sell DIY internals and will also upgrade your stock unit for $50. (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...ump/ES2226090/)" It's there
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas
Oops my bad
 
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