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So, I put together a chip FAQ

dpham00

Modérateur Emeritus
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Alright, well thank you for that info. I was hoping to be able to just swap out the hardware ECU unit itself with the stock one if I had to go out to the dealer for service. I did read through APR's site, and it looked like you got the actual hardware ECU unit when you purchase it for $600... so what do you get when you buy it off their website? :iono:

that's for previous gen's, not the mkv. you could buy an extra ecu, but don't forget that the ecu has to be coded by the dealer thru the geko system because the ecu contains your VIN #. it could be done, but it's gonna cost you a lot more than $600, assuming you buy a new ecu.
 

dpham00

Modérateur Emeritus
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Ok question(s)..

I was looking into getting the APR Stage 1 chip for my stock 06 GTI.

Questions:

- Do I have to get it flashed somewhere, or can I do it myself? What is involved. I'm very good with computers and pretty good with coding.

this is covered in the faq, but if you get any major US chip, then you will need to get it flashed. and yes, you can program it yourself, but you will need to buy hardware. the cost of the hardware would be substantially moer than any off the shelf chip. you can also buy bluefin which will let you flash it yourself thru their module.
 

-wiretap-

hax0r
Location
Michigan
Ok thanks. That's all I wanted to confirm. I'll just take it to get flashed I guess. It isn't really the option I wanted, but it will have to suffice.
 

fillup

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Florida
very nice write up, just a few questions.

1) What exactly is flashing. Is it just moding the existing chip?

2) Mind explaining the exaust thing a little more into detail, idk what you mean by downpipe, catback.

3) If I were to chip my car with an apr, would there be any other things that I would need with it besides the chip itself. I saw you listed a few other add-ons you could have but I have no clue as to what they are.

My first car so im a little new to chipping and modding. Thanks in advance.
 

dpham00

Modérateur Emeritus
Location
Los Angeles, CA
very nice write up, just a few questions.

1) What exactly is flashing. Is it just moding the existing chip?

2) Mind explaining the exaust thing a little more into detail, idk what you mean by downpipe, catback.

3) If I were to chip my car with an apr, would there be any other things that I would need with it besides the chip itself. I saw you listed a few other add-ons you could have but I have no clue as to what they are.

My first car so im a little new to chipping and modding. Thanks in advance.

1. the physical chip is already on the car. When you're flashing/chipping a mkv, alls you're doing is overwriting the original program. no physical change is made.

2. the mkv exhaust comes in two sections, the downpipe (front section with cat) and the catback section. there are aftermarket solutions for either or both.

3. nothing additional is required for the chip, though certain parts like the dv and pcv are more prone to failure, so you can replace them when you get the chip, or replace them when they fail.
 

jimmycoop2005

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
United States
Car(s)
Nissan 350z
Very good write up, that answered a lot of my questions. This may seem stupid but what's the "upgraded DV (only applicable on the 2.0T) and PCV"? You mentioned that it will work well with stock cars. If little motor things are changed ie downpipe, intake, exhaust, and pullies and such will it change anything and will they have to reflash?
 

g60_corrado_91

Go Kart Champion
Location
IL
Car(s)
2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
DV = diverter valve

The stock DV is prone to tearing with increased boost amounts, though some guys have had their DV's fail under the stock VW tune.

The PCV has a couple of check valves in it, depending on which version you have. One of the check valve controls boost, the other one is the blow by or whatever. If the one check valve fails, you may or may not see oil by the oil fill cap or some type of moisture there. With the other check valve, you will see decreased boost levels through the whole rpm range. Usually a couple psi.

Downpipe/exhaust isn't really a "little" motor thing. When you get a DP, that's when you have to upgrade from Stg 1 (assuming you're Stg 1), to Stg 2. Stg 2 offers more boost and different timing and fueling needs than Stg 1, since the exhaust is more free flowing. However, buying just the catback, you can run Stg 1 only.

I have an ATP 3" catless DP that I had on the stock VW tune for at least 7000 miles with no issues, and I've recently just gone to APR Stg 2. I also am able to run the stock catback with this DP and support the Stg 2. The DP is where most of the exhaust restrictions are.

Whatever you do, don't get Stg 2 before a turbo back exhaust (TBE) or DP. You'll probably be fine to be on Stg 1 with a TBE or DP, but not Stg 2 with stock DP and exhaust.

Intake may help some, especially with Stg 1 and Stg 2, but it's more of a noise maker than anything. Pulleys are controversial. Some guys say they're not harmonic balanced like the factory pulley, but I honestly can't say since I haven't owned one.
 

jimmycoop2005

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
United States
Car(s)
Nissan 350z
DV = diverter valve

The stock DV is prone to tearing with increased boost amounts, though some guys have had their DV's fail under the stock VW tune.

The PCV has a couple of check valves in it, depending on which version you have. One of the check valve controls boost, the other one is the blow by or whatever. If the one check valve fails, you may or may not see oil by the oil fill cap or some type of moisture there. With the other check valve, you will see decreased boost levels through the whole rpm range. Usually a couple psi.

Downpipe/exhaust isn't really a "little" motor thing. When you get a DP, that's when you have to upgrade from Stg 1 (assuming you're Stg 1), to Stg 2. Stg 2 offers more boost and different timing and fueling needs than Stg 1, since the exhaust is more free flowing. However, buying just the catback, you can run Stg 1 only.

I have an ATP 3" catless DP that I had on the stock VW tune for at least 7000 miles with no issues, and I've recently just gone to APR Stg 2. I also am able to run the stock catback with this DP and support the Stg 2. The DP is where most of the exhaust restrictions are.

Whatever you do, don't get Stg 2 before a turbo back exhaust (TBE) or DP. You'll probably be fine to be on Stg 1 with a TBE or DP, but not Stg 2 with stock DP and exhaust.

Intake may help some, especially with Stg 1 and Stg 2, but it's more of a noise maker than anything. Pulleys are controversial. Some guys say they're not harmonic balanced like the factory pulley, but I honestly can't say since I haven't owned one.

Thank you, this helps a lot. I wasn't planning on stage 2 for awhile, but you think I would be okay with the DP and I was thinking of getting the R32 exhaust (Eurojet) unless you think it wouldn't be worth it, both on a stage 1 tune?

Also where is a good place to go ahead and get an aftermarket DV and PCV?
 

Dr. Burgle

Ready to race!
Location
Fairfax, VA
Thank you, this helps a lot. I wasn't planning on stage 2 for awhile, but you think I would be okay with the DP and I was thinking of getting the R32 exhaust (Eurojet) unless you think it wouldn't be worth it, both on a stage 1 tune?

Also where is a good place to go ahead and get an aftermarket DV and PCV?

I got my PCV fix from 20squared for $70 and free shipping.
My DV I am getting from a local german performance shop.
 

g60_corrado_91

Go Kart Champion
Location
IL
Car(s)
2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
Thank you, this helps a lot. I wasn't planning on stage 2 for awhile, but you think I would be okay with the DP and I was thinking of getting the R32 exhaust (Eurojet) unless you think it wouldn't be worth it, both on a stage 1 tune?

Also where is a good place to go ahead and get an aftermarket DV and PCV?

That's probably fine, but if you're already Stg 1, the jump to Stg 2 is either free or ~$50 dollars from labor. So if that's the case, I would just spend the extra ~$50 and be Stg 2.:smile:

There's a lot of places that sell the DV. I would try searching, but I know like Forge Motorsport has it, 20 squared may, ECS Tuning I think, etc.

I got my PCV warrantied at the dealership to a later version, but I'm still going to do the digitalhippie DIY PCV fix, which is similar to the Euro Jet PCV fix, just cheaper.
 

jimmycoop2005

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
United States
Car(s)
Nissan 350z
That's probably fine, but if you're already Stg 1, the jump to Stg 2 is either free or ~$50 dollars from labor. So if that's the case, I would just spend the extra ~$50 and be Stg 2.:smile:

There's a lot of places that sell the DV. I would try searching, but I know like Forge Motorsport has it, 20 squared may, ECS Tuning I think, etc.

I got my PCV warrantied at the dealership to a later version, but I'm still going to do the digitalhippie DIY PCV fix, which is similar to the Euro Jet PCV fix, just cheaper.

How reliable is the stage 2?
 

Lazy S

Was Ist Oben?
Location
Naperville, IL
Car(s)
2007 red GTI 2dr
APR at Bill Jacobs VW in Naperville

The service dept. at Bill Jacobs VW in Naperville, IL is now an authorized APR Tuning installer. They will install the chip, and also a switch to toggle it back to stock. They will be converting an existing showroom to accommodate a new service area exclusively for tuning upgrades. I just bought my new '07 GTI there, and they were great people to do business with IMHO.
 

g60_corrado_91

Go Kart Champion
Location
IL
Car(s)
2006 GTI 6MT Pkg 1
How reliable is the stage 2?

Pretty reliable so far. The only things you really have to worry about are the DV's and PCV's failing.

Lazy S, Conrad at City VW did mine. I trust him since he has APR Stg 2 on his own MkV GTI. He's a cool guy too, races and tracks his GTI, is a member of the Chicago VW Organization.
 
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