Stg 1 is the file you would get with just an intake and/or completely stock. It runs lower boost levels. Typical 2.0T's in GLI/GTI applications have around 215whp and something around 230-235wtq.
Stg 2 is a different file from Stg 1. It increases the boost levels, but its use is optimized with a TBE (turbo back exhaust) or a downpipe and intake. I suppose you could run Stg 2 with just a DP and stock intake/catback, but you will probably see slightly more gains and perhaps more smoothness with an intake.
Do not upgrade or get a Stg 2 file if you don't have a TBE or DP. It won't be a smooth power delivery.
For myself, with the stock catback and an ATP 3" catless DP with the Neuspeed P flo intake, I'm probably going to end up going with Stg 2 APR.
Dan, I'm not sure if this question was answered, but what is required to get V Tune with APR? Can you have just the basic Stg 2 chip (93 octane only), or do you have to upgrade to 2 or more programs in order to get the V Tune?
I was looking into getting the APR Stage 1 chip for my stock 06 GTI.
- Do I have to get it flashed somewhere, or can I do it myself? What is involved. I'm very good with computers and pretty good with coding.
- Can I order the hardware ECU unit, then just swap it in and out from 'chipped' to 'stock' when I visit the dealership for service?
- Or.. could I flash back and forth from 'chipped' to 'stock'? (sort of like the giac flashloader utility mentioned on the first page) But if the dealership overwrites the 'stock' bootloaded ECU firmware, would that run the custom flash?
If someone could answer these questions at least briefly, that would be appreciated. I want to do this right so I don't get a void warranty or something along those lines. I would like the ability to either swap out physical ECU's or be able to have it so the dealer can't tell, and if they overwrite the flash I'd like to be able to flash it back.
1.) You bring it into a APR dealership. Around here, some of the APR dealerships are also VW dealerships, so it works out warranty wise.
2.) Are you asking that you want a totally new ECU and then put the stock one back in for work? That's involved and expensive. If you're that worried about warranty work, then see if there's a mod friendly dealer around or don't get flashed at all.
3.) APR has the EMCS system that you use through the cruise control. You basically hold down the set button and the CEL flashes once, that's program one, usually stock. You keep holding it down, it flashes twice, that's program 2, usually 91 or 93 octane program.
BTW, APR has their sale till next Friday where if you get the one program, you get another one free ($150 dollar value) AKA you buy 93 program, you can have stock programming for free. If you buy 2 programs for $750 plus tax and labor, then you get a fully loaded ECU (Stock, 91/93, 100 octane, etc etc.); everything but the security lockout which is another $60 if I recall correctly.
I'm pretty informed about this stuff and I don't even have it yet. Got to do your research man.
It's literally all on their website, except the sale pricing.
Alright, well thank you for that info. I was hoping to be able to just swap out the hardware ECU unit itself with the stock one if I had to go out to the dealer for service. I did read through APR's site, and it looked like you got the actual hardware ECU unit when you purchase it for $600... so what do you get when you buy it off their website? :iono: