eurocars
5/17/15 - Never forget
- Location
- Indianapolis
- Car(s)
- 2006 GTI
Wanted to start his thread since there arent many resources out there for shaving MKV bays. Please feel free to contribute ideas, I will add ideas to this post.
AC Delete Belt:
For FSI's ONLY: Tying to find the correct A/C belt is tough, this Gates belt is the same one needed. Amazon currently has it for ~ $18
Gates K060374 Multi V-Groove Belt
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060374...-1&keywords=Gates+K060374+Multi+V-Groove+Belt
For TSI's ONLY: A/C compressor delete bracket/idler - 06J 145 172 - Uses normal TSI belt
Master Cylinder sensor delete cap:
Comes from a 1973-1983 Porsche 911.
Black cap: Porsche part number is 911.355.905.02
White cap: Mercedes part number 0004315433
Chrome: http://www.vintageeuroparts.com/100263.html
You can get them on ebay for around $15 shipped
The warning lamp can be turned off by jumping the two pins
Remote thermostat housing/coolant globe delete:
Lots of people have asked about this one; you can replace your coolant globe with a remote thermostat housing. I used the moroso unit and mounted it behind the headlight but will eventually move it to somewhere its more hidden. You will need the housing, adapter, cap and fittings. Summit Racing stocks the parts.
Moroso Remote Thermostat Housings 63426:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63426
Filler Neck for top of housing:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63466
Use whatever "regular style" pressure cap you like, but double check pressure cap rating for stock system. I dont remember what it is (maybe 18 psi?)
I'll add more ideas to this thread as I think of them and as others post up.
Washer fluid neck delete:
This is an easy one; get a 1 inch threaded pcv cap (I prefer vinyl caps but they're harder to find, McMaster makes you buy in bulk. I have extras if people need some, PM me) Pull the neck off of the main reservoir and cap it off. When you need to fill it, use a small funnel with a hose on it to feed fluid into the container. The cap only runs you a couple bucks and hose/plastic funnels are cheap.
Battery relocation:
To relocate my battery, I use 2 gauge wire from from front to back. The battery is grounded out on the body under the rear seat belt bolts. Be sure to remove the paint where its going to contact so it has a good connection. You can buy cable at most auto parts stores and at summit racing. I would suggest picking up about 15 feet of positive, maybe 2-5 ft of negative depending on where you want to ground out at. For mounting, I took the OEM rear carpet, traced it on a piece of plywood then used a jig saw to cut a pattern just like the carpet. There are plenty of different brackets for batteries out there. I personally bought a billet one from Weiland Custom Machine for my 75/35 red top optima that mounts and holds the battery from the bottom so you don't see any brackets on top.
They are ~ $80 on amazon. If you decide to go with a smaller battery like an odyssey, you can mount it sideways under the carpet as long as you trim the foam underneath. Be sure to measure so you get one with the correct dimensions.
Tucking the fusebox:
This is a very in-depth process that takes alot of time and experience to do. The first time I did mine on my MKV, it took 2 weeks of a few hours each day. Even though I did not do it this way the first time, it seems like the best option for moving the harness is to move the ecu inside instead of trying to leave it in the cowling. From what im told, it will only need 4-6 inches of extension vs the 3 ft or so I did to mine. For mounting the fusebox itself, I cut out the glovebox then made a bracket that bolted to the brace behind the dash. There was already a hole with threads on it in the area that I cut mine. This process is more trial and error than the rest (except maybe the hard pipe) and will take alot of research before you decide to go for it. Spend the money on good materials (shrinkwrap, heat gun, wire etc) and it will be worth it. Dont go getting the boxes of spooled wire from Harbor freight unless you want to have issues later
Brake pedal switch relocation:
The brake pedal switch can be relocated from the master cylinder to the interior brake pedal. The switch is a hall-effect style that uses a magnet inside the master cylinder to pass in front of the sensor and complete the circuit. You can purchase a generic magnet from the hardware store and create a bracket to mount the switch
N75/249 (wastegate solenoid/DV) delete:
For those people people running aftermarket wastegate control solenoids or mechanical BOV's, you used to have to keep the oem DV and wastegate solenoid plugged in and tucked out of the way to keep the ECU happy. I've found that you can run a 1k ohm resistor rated at 1/4 watt or more in its place. The resistance of the stock parts are ~12.5 and 25 ohms, but the ECU doesnt mind the extra resistance. Tested to work on both FSI and TSI MKV's, have not tested on MK6's but I would assume it works for them as well
AC Delete Belt:
For FSI's ONLY: Tying to find the correct A/C belt is tough, this Gates belt is the same one needed. Amazon currently has it for ~ $18
Gates K060374 Multi V-Groove Belt
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-K060374...-1&keywords=Gates+K060374+Multi+V-Groove+Belt
For TSI's ONLY: A/C compressor delete bracket/idler - 06J 145 172 - Uses normal TSI belt
Master Cylinder sensor delete cap:
Comes from a 1973-1983 Porsche 911.
Black cap: Porsche part number is 911.355.905.02
White cap: Mercedes part number 0004315433
Chrome: http://www.vintageeuroparts.com/100263.html
You can get them on ebay for around $15 shipped
The warning lamp can be turned off by jumping the two pins
Remote thermostat housing/coolant globe delete:
Lots of people have asked about this one; you can replace your coolant globe with a remote thermostat housing. I used the moroso unit and mounted it behind the headlight but will eventually move it to somewhere its more hidden. You will need the housing, adapter, cap and fittings. Summit Racing stocks the parts.
Moroso Remote Thermostat Housings 63426:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63426
Filler Neck for top of housing:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-63466
Use whatever "regular style" pressure cap you like, but double check pressure cap rating for stock system. I dont remember what it is (maybe 18 psi?)
I'll add more ideas to this thread as I think of them and as others post up.
Washer fluid neck delete:
This is an easy one; get a 1 inch threaded pcv cap (I prefer vinyl caps but they're harder to find, McMaster makes you buy in bulk. I have extras if people need some, PM me) Pull the neck off of the main reservoir and cap it off. When you need to fill it, use a small funnel with a hose on it to feed fluid into the container. The cap only runs you a couple bucks and hose/plastic funnels are cheap.
Battery relocation:
To relocate my battery, I use 2 gauge wire from from front to back. The battery is grounded out on the body under the rear seat belt bolts. Be sure to remove the paint where its going to contact so it has a good connection. You can buy cable at most auto parts stores and at summit racing. I would suggest picking up about 15 feet of positive, maybe 2-5 ft of negative depending on where you want to ground out at. For mounting, I took the OEM rear carpet, traced it on a piece of plywood then used a jig saw to cut a pattern just like the carpet. There are plenty of different brackets for batteries out there. I personally bought a billet one from Weiland Custom Machine for my 75/35 red top optima that mounts and holds the battery from the bottom so you don't see any brackets on top.
They are ~ $80 on amazon. If you decide to go with a smaller battery like an odyssey, you can mount it sideways under the carpet as long as you trim the foam underneath. Be sure to measure so you get one with the correct dimensions.
Tucking the fusebox:
This is a very in-depth process that takes alot of time and experience to do. The first time I did mine on my MKV, it took 2 weeks of a few hours each day. Even though I did not do it this way the first time, it seems like the best option for moving the harness is to move the ecu inside instead of trying to leave it in the cowling. From what im told, it will only need 4-6 inches of extension vs the 3 ft or so I did to mine. For mounting the fusebox itself, I cut out the glovebox then made a bracket that bolted to the brace behind the dash. There was already a hole with threads on it in the area that I cut mine. This process is more trial and error than the rest (except maybe the hard pipe) and will take alot of research before you decide to go for it. Spend the money on good materials (shrinkwrap, heat gun, wire etc) and it will be worth it. Dont go getting the boxes of spooled wire from Harbor freight unless you want to have issues later
Brake pedal switch relocation:
The brake pedal switch can be relocated from the master cylinder to the interior brake pedal. The switch is a hall-effect style that uses a magnet inside the master cylinder to pass in front of the sensor and complete the circuit. You can purchase a generic magnet from the hardware store and create a bracket to mount the switch
N75/249 (wastegate solenoid/DV) delete:
For those people people running aftermarket wastegate control solenoids or mechanical BOV's, you used to have to keep the oem DV and wastegate solenoid plugged in and tucked out of the way to keep the ECU happy. I've found that you can run a 1k ohm resistor rated at 1/4 watt or more in its place. The resistance of the stock parts are ~12.5 and 25 ohms, but the ECU doesnt mind the extra resistance. Tested to work on both FSI and TSI MKV's, have not tested on MK6's but I would assume it works for them as well
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