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Replacing Fuel Filter--Getting DAMN clips off?!?!?!?!

GTIMKV20

APR Stage I
Location
MA
Car(s)
VW GTI MKVI
^^ good idea!

anyone actually notice a difference after changing it out? gas mileage.. power?
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
...anyone actually notice a difference after changing it out? gas mileage.. power?
No.
But I believe the idea of changing at 40k is preventative maintenance,
so that you change it before you would experience a degradation in performance.
 

GTIMKV20

APR Stage I
Location
MA
Car(s)
VW GTI MKVI
gotcha.. I'm at 55k and am trying to diagnose a fueling issue. Seems it can't keep up at WOT stage II software without fuel pump file. I've narrowed it down to the LPFP or the HPFP. So I'm installing a new OEM HPFP this week. Hopefully that'll fix my issues, but it would sure be nice if it was just the fuel filter was clogged or something, lol
 

Tip-C

Ready to race!
Location
Montreal, Canada
Really? :iono:

First time I did the filter change was a learning experience.
Second time was easy and quick. The time it takes to unscrew one clamp
would be longer that it took me to release all three lines the second time around.
Preparing to do my third now.
---
Is it not a stiff plastic line, not a rubber line?
Does not seem to be designed to be compressed, pinched,
isn't that why there is a locking mechanism?

The factory method does nor rely on compression for a seal.
The original line and filter nipple are designed for the snap lock,
hope they stand up to the compression lock you substituted.
The thought of fuel line leaks certainly gives me reason to pause. :evil:
I would not be as bold as you changing 21st century
factory methods on a fuel line attachment.

Take a look at the construction of a 20th century rubber fuel line,
traditionally used with clamps.
VW would have to change the line material for safety with a clamp,
and would lose the cost cutting benefit of the plastic line.
Wouldn't be surprised if the filter nipples would need to be more robust too.

Be sure to post back if a line cracks from expansion / contraction / pinch stress and starts leaking.
Guess time will tell.

I think that if you are easily able to get the clips off then do that, but if you struggle for 3 hrs trying to get the last one off or even accidently broke one, then just replace it with a clamp. As far as i'm concerned it works.

To be honest, the only reason I think that VW put little plastic clips is because its cheaper than metal clamps and its faster for the assembly worker to put them on.

The fact that it compresses the hose around the filter's nipple doesn't change anything because the nipple is actually strong enough to support this.

I actually park my car in a small 1 car garage so if there were any fuel leaks I would most likely smell them.

As it is, everything seems to be working fine and if I'm not mistaken it should be time to change it again!
 

notsolinear

Takes his fast for rides
Location
Champaign, IL
If you're having trouble with the buttons, very gently try actuating them with a small set of channel lock pliers. I got two of three with my finger nails, but the third just wouldn't depress. Used the channel locks to put just a little more pressure than my hand could do and the button unfroze. Then it was easy to get the line off by hand.
 

GTIMKV20

APR Stage I
Location
MA
Car(s)
VW GTI MKVI
so where is the cheapest place to grab a filter from? Any online discount VW shops with good prices on this shipped or go to dealer?
 

nhbubba

CEL free until 48,398 mi
Location
Seacoast NH
I bought from ECS. Partly because I was already buying some OE parts few of the other usual suspects offered. The total price after shipping might have been as cheap as the rest too.

My dealer is no deal.

TSI users beware: some of their parts are listed as CCTA only, when in reality they fit CBFA engines too.
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
fuel pump fuse

Thought I would bump this thread and add the fuel pump fuse location,
been asked via PM, might as well share with everyone.

The fuel pump fuse on my car is located in Fuse Box C (left side dash end cap),
fuse # 27 -- 15A ATC size.



** caveat **
VW changes fuse box layouts regularly.
The layout used in my car is valid for US cars manufactured from May 2005 to April 2006 (mine is a Feb 2006 manufacture date).
Fuse location was determined from the Bentley shop manual.
The shop manual lists the choices below for fuse box C layout, my Bentley was last updatd in 2007,
so there may be more variations now :iono:
 
Last edited:

division12

New member
Location
US
is bleeding absolutely neccessary?

I'm about to change my fuel filter, but saw on the bentley manual a warning that said to make sure to bleed the fuel system after replacing the filter. something about damaging the catalytic converter if this step is not done.

the procedure for bleeding seems a lot of work and requires special tools. You also need to pull out the rear seat to gain access to the fuel pump.

Did any of you guys have to do this?
 

JetTurbo

geezer
Location
South Florida, USA
Car(s)
2018 GTi Autobahn 6M
I'm about to change my fuel filter, but saw on the bentley manual a warning that said to make sure to bleed the fuel system after replacing the filter. something about damaging the catalytic converter if this step is not done.

the procedure for bleeding seems a lot of work and requires special tools. You also need to pull out the rear seat to gain access to the fuel pump.

Did any of you guys have to do this?
Clearly I missed that in the Bentley :facepalm:
Have changed my fuel filter three times now (45k, 82k, 126k miles)
without performing that procedure, most recently two weeks ago,
and I have not encountered any issues that I have identified.
Definitely no errors in the ECU so far.
Sure hope it is not shortening the life of my catalyt converter. :rolleyes:
 
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