Removing FP to check cam follower...

[gtiwop]

I am about to undertake the job and I have two questions for you guys and yes I've read the DIY.

1- After releasing the pressure by bleeding the bleeder valve I read that it has to be removed. What's the point of that? The valve is not connected to anything except the FP body so why remove it?

2- When disconnecting the fuel line I am supposed to leave the (internal?) rubber line connected so that it will be easy to reconnect. What I cannot figure out is how the fuel line, even with the metal part disconnect, is going to have enough play, since the metal part is still over the rubber line, to allow the pump to move back without putting a kink in the metal tube.
I'm a noob at this, please have patience. Thanks for the time and help.:bow:

 

[Little_Red_Fast]

I am about to undertake the job and I have two questions for you guys and yes I've read the DIY.

1- After releasing the pressure by bleeding the bleeder valve I read that it has to be removed. What's the point of that? The valve is not connected to anything except the FP body so why remove it?You have to remove it so that you can remove the Torx holding the HPFP in place that is completely blocked by the bleeder valve. Without removing this, you cant check the follower.

2- When disconnecting the fuel line I am supposed to leave the (internal?) rubber line connected so that it will be easy to reconnect. What I cannot figure out is how the fuel line, even with the metal part disconnect, is going to have enough play, since the metal part is still over the rubber line, to allow the pump to move back without putting a kink in the metal tube. It will have play, I followed the APR instructions to a "T" and had zero issues.
I'm a noob at this, please have patience. Thanks for the time and help.:bow:

Comments in bold, hope it helps :thumbsup:

 

[mose6161]

1 - the bleeder valve sits in the way of a torx bolt you have to remove

2 - undo the metal liine, take my word for it, it's easy and possible and it will have enough play.

 

[dbduke]

Also, keep in mind that there will still be some pressure left even after you completely vent the bleeder valve. Use a 13mm long socket to remove the valve itself, placing a towel around your ratchet to pickup the last of the fuel. Wear goggles, cloth gloves (fuel will eat right through nitrile and latex) and do it *outside*.

 

[utekineir]

i was reading the instructions for some kit, think it was the stasis k04 pdf,

said for removing the fuel pump to first unplug the top black connector on the fuel pump then run the car for 10 seconds to depressurize the pump.

Did it the other day, worked like a charm, I'll be doing that every time now.

 

[Little_Red_Fast]

Good info there Utekineir :thumbsup:

 

[dbduke]

i was reading the instructions for some kit, think it was the stasis k04 pdf,

said for removing the fuel pump to first unplug the top black connector on the fuel pump then run the car for 10 seconds to depressurize the pump.

Did it the other day, worked like a charm, I'll be doing that every time now.

Yes you can do that, or pulling the fuse works too. That won't get all of the pressure, though, so make sure you still vent and remove the bleeder valve.

 

[utekineir]

Yes you can do that, or pulling the fuse works too. That won't get all of the pressure, though, so make sure you still vent and remove the bleeder valve.

Fuse definitely works also, but you have to remove the black connector anyway to have easy access for checking the follower, the fuse is a nice precaution but not necessary.

It doesn't change the steps necessary to check the follower, its just an easy way of avoiding a spray while bleeding, a rag is still necessary below the bleeder.

 

[gtiwop]

Great help! thanks guys.

 

[mreuro]

sweet

 

[JoeyDaBomb]

I hope you don't have an 06, Banjo fittings FTL.