Rainbow IQ 320.25 install, reviews, and pics

[RuddyR32]

Quick update all. Got the Rainbows (minimal drama), Dynamat (front doors), PDX-5, Cleansweep and all wiring installed this weekend. Tomorrow the sub goes in, the new VW iPod connection and Zoombak get hooked up, the JL sub control knob gets installed, Dynamat goes in the boot (sorry trunk) and my Garmin will be hardwired ... then we should be rockin!!!

Have loads of photos that I'll comb through and then do my best to post the install procedure. Can't wait to get this finally finished. Everything is out of sight, so looks pretty stealthy.

Thanks for everyones contributions to date ... hopefully everyone will be up and running here shortly.

Stay tuned ... Ruddy!

 

[El Borracho]

photos!!! review!!!

 

[plac]

Got shipping confirmation on the adapter today. A little slow going out but all is good...no worries. I'm out of town Wed-Tue so it'll be the following weekend before I make any more progress on the install.

that was over a week ago. you dont have the harness yet??

 

[quality_sound]

Can't remember, did you install a sub as well? I'm pretty sure you said you has some sound deadner installed too correct?

One of my big concerns is how the mid-bass will perform. I listen to lots of electronic/drum & bass, and the mid bass in the stock system isn't worth a shit. I had a 10" sub installed & while I had some decent low sub-bass hits, the mid-bass was severly lacking. Can you elaborate on the mid-bass on the Rainbows a little?

Thanks!

If you want some killer midbass then forgo the Rainbow 6.5" and jump right up to something like a JL ZR800-CW or a Dayton RS225-4. If you don't have a lot of power the Dayton is a better choice as it's more sensitive and it has a tad more cone area but if you can throw a solid 250+ watts to each, I prefer the JLs. They do sound differently though. The Dayton, being designed for use in an enclosure is not quite as snappy as the JL but that also makes it sound a little more sub-like (I ran mine down to 4-Hz with no problems) which some people will prefer. The JL sounds like a proper midbass (I CAN go down to 40Hz but it stops adding anything meaningful under about 70Hz) which might throw some people off.

Also, midbass in a MkV sucks balls unless you have T/A. There's nothing you can do about it. When I first got my Daytons in I couldn't for the life of me see what the hype about 8" midbasses was...then I set the T/A and it was a night and day difference. The midbass was so good I contemplated not running a sub at all.

If you're on a budget and HAVE to run the PDXs I'd run the PDX-5 and a 4.150 bridged to the midbasses with a HU or processor that will allow an active 4-way setup. You won't believe how much better it'll sound.

 

[Monkeykungfu]

If you want some killer midbass then forgo the Rainbow 6.5" and jump right up to something like a JL ZR800-CW or a Dayton RS225-4. If you don't have a lot of power the Dayton is a better choice as it's more sensitive and it has a tad more cone area but if you can throw a solid 250+ watts to each, I prefer the JLs. They do sound differently though. The Dayton, being designed for use in an enclosure is not quite as snappy as the JL but that also makes it sound a little more sub-like (I ran mine down to 4-Hz with no problems) which some people will prefer. The JL sounds like a proper midbass (I CAN go down to 40Hz but it stops adding anything meaningful under about 70Hz) which might throw some people off.

Thanks for your input. Was curious, have you heard the Rainbow midbasses yet, or are you just guessing that the Dayton's or JL's are better? The Rainbows midbasses are 8" by the way. Either way, I've got Rainbows are sitting right next to me... figure I would at least give them a try & see what I think.

Also, midbass in a MkV sucks balls unless you have T/A. There's nothing you can do about it. When I first got my Daytons in I couldn't for the life of me see what the hype about 8" midbasses was...then I set the T/A and it was a night and day difference. The midbass was so good I contemplated not running a sub at all.

Please explain what T/A is an acronym for. Also, if there's nothing we "can do about it" how can you "set the T/A?" I've read it's much better if you can get relocate the midbasses to the front of the door pointing back towards you, makes sense. Is this what you're referring to here? If it is, maybe one day, I don't have time for all of the custom work now however.

If you're on a budget and HAVE to run the PDXs I'd run the PDX-5 and a 4.150 bridged to the midbasses with a HU or processor that will allow an active 4-way setup. You won't believe how much better it'll sound.

I've got a PDX-5 installed now. Only the 10" sub is on it now until this weekend. My Actual Test Measurement came back with 110 W for the full-range channels (specs say 75 w) & 416 w for the sub channel (specs say 300 w). I'll bridge the amp to the fronts bringing 220 w to each side, I would guess that would fair decently on the Rainbows & sub, shouldn't it?

I'm also installing a JL Cleansweep & sound deadener in each door as well. Ought to be a decent start I believe, I can always modify it or change it later if I'm still not happy with it. I'm fairly certain I'll add more deadener in other areas of the car too at some point.

 

[quality_sound]

I have heard the Rainbows and while a step up from the OEMs they're not in the same league as the JLs and the Daytons.

T/A is time alignment. A lot of newer HUs have it as well as many processors. I'm running an Audison Bit One.1. Yes relocating the midbasses will help (still not perfect) but it's also not reversible either.

Definitely deaden the doors. I took the outer skins off so I could do the back side of the regulators as well. It made a noticable difference. I also did everything from under the back seat to the back of the hatch and the hatch door as well as the sides. That didn't make much difference at all.

Why are you running a Cleansweep? You don't need the de-EQ and you can use a regar LOC for signal tapping. You could sell the CS and get a processor with time alignment and have much more potential. You would need more amp channels though.

You have decent power but I'd still add more for the midbasses and run them on their own channels. That way you could use time alignment. If you try to time ign your set as t is the results will be less than desirable.

 

[A41.8QTM]

Got it earlier this week and was motivating to finish the install this weekend but other stuff (beer) got in the way and I didn't make much progress other then to pull the passenger seat and find a Sirius tuner...I didn't order/pay for sat radio :biggrin: I'll either sell it or just hold it for whenever I get rid of the car. Anyway, need to run the wires from the dash and get the amp and LC6i mounted still.

that was over a week ago. you dont have the harness yet??

 

[6spdcoupe]

I have heard the Rainbows and while a step up from the OEMs they're not in the same league as the JLs and the Daytons.

T/A is time alignment. A lot of newer HUs have it as well as many processors. I'm running an Audison Bit One.1. Yes relocating the midbasses will help (still not perfect) but it's also not reversible either.

Definitely deaden the doors. I took the outer skins off so I could do the back side of the regulators as well. It made a noticable difference. I also did everything from under the back seat to the back of the hatch and the hatch door as well as the sides. That didn't make much difference at all.

Why are you running a Cleansweep? You don't need the de-EQ and you can use a regar LOC for signal tapping. You could sell the CS and get a processor with time alignment and have much more potential. You would need more amp channels though.

You have decent power but I'd still add more for the midbasses and run them on their own channels. That way you could use time alignment. If you try to time ign your set as t is the results will be less than desirable.

With the comparison of JL and Daytons Vs the Rainbows are you speaking generally or specifically to the IQs ? While I cannot agree with either, it would be easier to swallow if speaking directly towards the IQs. To claim Rainbow is not in the same league as JL or Dayton in a broad entire lineup is quite the bold statement, not to mention one that I have Never heard and most likely would not hear again.

T/A would not make any major benefit unless ran active. If someone is trying to correct the subpar location of the midbass via T/A, the rest of the setup would be way off as well. It is passive ! You only have left-Right to work with and will end up doing more harm than good.

 

[quality_sound]

With the comparison of JL and Daytons Vs the Rainbows are you speaking generally or specifically to the IQs ? While I cannot agree with either, it would be easier to swallow if speaking directly towards the IQs. To claim Rainbow is not in the same league as JL or Dayton in a broad entire lineup is quite the bold statement, not to mention one that I have Never heard and most likely would not hear again.

I wasn't saying Rainbow as a company isn't in the same league as JL or Dayton. I was saying the IQ 8" midbass isn't as good as the JL or the Dayton. I have heard many Rainbow installs and the only ones I thought had good midbass were the Kickbasses. The poster I replied to specifically wanted really solid midbass, hence my recommendation. For 95% of listeners the IQ midbass is plenty.

T/A would not make any major benefit unless ran active.

I said that.

 

[6spdcoupe]

I wasn't saying Rainbow as a company isn't in the same league as JL or Dayton. I was saying the IQ 8" midbass isn't as good as the JL or the Dayton. I have heard many Rainbow installs and the only ones I thought had good midbass were the Kickbasses. The poster I replied to specifically wanted really solid midbass, hence my recommendation. For 95% of listeners the IQ midbass is plenty.

You realize, with the exception of just a tad more in the 80-180 region the kick bass versions are no more, nor less than standard, correct ? In fact, if going by published recommendation, then you are limited to not go below 80. In which case I would go standard version all day long. In an active setup the 8" in the IQ line is just a standard X-plain driver - absolutely no issues giving a full robust output with adequate power.

Between the ease on install, light weight and the fact that is a full set it is an easy choice over the Daytons. No doubt the Dayton has an abundant amount of output, but they you are limited to either making passives or going active and choosing drivers to match.

The JL midbass never did anything for me, always found them thin in the bottom end and lacking a bit of character.

I said that.

I did just notice that, I stand corrected.

 

[6spdcoupe]

Also forgot to ask .... why are you in Germany now ? What happened to Cali ?

 

[quality_sound]

You realize, with the exception of just a tad more in the 80-180 region the kick bass versions are no more, nor less than standard, correct ?

Exactly, the midbass region. If you want your 8s to be mini subs then there would be better options than the Kickbass, I agree.

In fact, if going by published recommendation, then you are limited to not go below 80. In which case I would go standard version all day long. In an active setup the 8" in the IQ line is just a standard X-plain driver - absolutely no issues giving a full robust output with adequate power.

Agreed, if you want your midbass to play under 80Hz, and there's really no reason for that, then the Kickbass is NOT the driver for you.

Between the ease on install, light weight and the fact that is a full set it is an easy choice over the Daytons. No doubt the Dayton has an abundant amount of output, but they you are limited to either making passives or going active and choosing drivers to match.

Fair enough, but that's why I made sure to mention that it's not a simple swap out. I mean, technically you could just swap the midbass drivers but we both know that rarely results in satisfactory results.

The JL midbass never did anything for me, always found them thin in the bottom end and lacking a bit of character.

Exactly, midbass drivers. The bottom two octave are stronger on a lot of other drivers but I only run mine to 70Hz. From 70Hz to say 250Hz or so they work wonderfully. I'm still looking for something a bit more efficient but I'm not unhappy with them by any means.

 

[quality_sound]

Also forgot to ask .... why are you in Germany now ? What happened to Cali ?

I'm stationed here now. Only took 8 years to get out of Beale. LMAO! :lol:

 

[6spdcoupe]

Agreed, but to clarify - my responses were based primarily on:

The poster I replied to specifically wanted really solid midbass, hence my recommendation.

In which case the general consumer is not fully aware of where 'mid bass' and 'sub bass' change. Im sure you have seen your fair share of clients that mean one thing and ask for another. No fault of their own, but it does happen. When one asks for a stout output of 'mid bass' alot of times they are looking for a replacement of adding a sub. No, certainly not all the time, but the confusion does exist !

With the ability to play below the 'standard' 80 it may tickle the neck hair of a few enough to be happy.

 

[6spdcoupe]

I'm stationed here now. Only took 8 years to get out of Beale. LMAO! :lol:

:lol: Guessing this is a good thing ? :thumbsup: