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Power lost after installing 3” piping
- Thread starter S T
- Start date
It seems you may have answered your own question with "I’m stock tuned, just bolt on upgrades atm". You are likely having false reports to the ECU now, where a tune would be designed to enhance performance now. May be time to tune it. I have seen where a tuner, even APR, says, in order; 1st) tune it...then intake and then exhaust.
I read an article in Eurotuner many years ago on the MK5 and tuning it. They installed an intake and then a DP...after they installed each one they dyno'd it and combined the dyno showed about a 4 HP gain, but they said it felt as though it had lost its pep. Then they added the tune, and it finally got its groove back.
I read an article in Eurotuner many years ago on the MK5 and tuning it. They installed an intake and then a DP...after they installed each one they dyno'd it and combined the dyno showed about a 4 HP gain, but they said it felt as though it had lost its pep. Then they added the tune, and it finally got its groove back.
What stage tune wld u recommend? Im not planning to go k04. I know I might be ready to go stage 2 with my current mods, except hpfp upgrade?
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golfballer78
Ready to race!
- Location
- southbay CA.
- Car(s)
- 08' R32 dsg
Yeah, the stock computer will always correct the fuel delivery based on incoming air. Recalibrated fuel timing & raise in boost to that management will make use of those supporting parts. I personally discovered 3in exhaust was overkill anyway.
I agree on that just matter of time for tune. Ain’t cheap either [emoji2] so a 2.5” wld be appropriate u think? 3” DP with 2.5” cat pipes
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Even with a cai installed the stock ecu won’t recognize the increase air?
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golfballer78
Ready to race!
- Location
- southbay CA.
- Car(s)
- 08' R32 dsg
Ecu def recognizes, but the factory program corrects the fuel to maintain 14.7/1 ratio. Therefore it won’t gain anything really unless the ecu is recalibrated with higher performance program. Kinda what I was explaining before. Just throwing parts (which are generally supported mods) alone on computer control injection doesn’t automatically translate to gains in power just because of gains in noise. This has been proven on dynos for years, even on my old Evo 8, mk5 gli or this mk5 R32 currently, computer module re-tuning has made the significant impact, the bolt ons will promote more flow thru the head to go further.
Yea understood on that. Wondering if my Racechip wld make any difference?
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golfballer78
Ready to race!
- Location
- southbay CA.
- Car(s)
- 08' R32 dsg
Never heard of that one. I used giac with switchable files, 91 & 100octane programs. But was still slow at the strip at mid to high 14’s cause of fwd traction losses off the line in first few gears. Awd R32 with giac ecu & United Motorsport haldex module flashes I ran best e.t. Of 14.2 1/4 mi. Also handles better at a circuit. Yer honestly better off going with well known reputable flash files, many documentaries on here of what worked best. Personally I think going over 300 on fwd is silly if you can’t disable the traction control & put it to the pavement.
Well yea fwd & awd makes a big difference. Racechip is basically a piggyback chip that manipulates the ecu, its a german product and pretty famous worldwide. It increases ho/torque by 20% and the results are there.
Yea over 300 for fwd is overkill IMO too, thats y i dont plan to go K04.
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Yeah, Stage 2 for GIAC and APR etc., w/o hpfp.
OK, which Race Chip do you have? S - RS - GTS? The 'S' I presume because it is advertised as a 20% gain. Trying to figure out the 5 settings is near impossible...why they make it so difficult to find what the 5 settings do? And better yet, what hardware requirements are suggested for those settings?
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