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My second build on my 08 GTI

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
SoCal
I have owned this car for 10 years. Mods started early and I blame this forum and all of my fellow enthusiasts for the low balance of my bank account. The car graduated from stage 1 to stage 2 to K04 with a number of mods to accommodate the increases in power along the way. I had been driving it for a number of years at the K04 level (335/336). In 2017 I decided to refresh the car and go bigger turbo, bigger wheels, bigger tires, bigger brakes and some enhanced seating and am hoping to land somewhere near 500whp. As of 2/27/2018 the car is about 70% done. It will be going to AU Tuning in a couple of weeks for all the final assembly and tuning to get it on the road. Once on the road the fender flares and big wheels will go on.

March 27, 2018 - car went to AUTuning

Update 9/13/2018 - The car is still at AUTuning and it is nearing completion. I decided NOT to go with flared fenders and oversized tires and stick with my stealthy stock look and just refresh the black plastic pieces and grilles. I also decided just this week to replace the YCW coilovers and went with Eibach R1s. In working with Dave at AU he has a solution for a 5th injector on hand if we need it to reach the power level I am happy with. Hopefully the car will go to the dyno for tuning in the next week or so.

As you can see by the list below, this build was rather extensive partially because I chose to replace most everything that I thought might fail on a 10 year old car. Much of the information below was scattered over a long thread I started years ago for a previous slow motion build if you will. I thought I would compile and update the information here just for the new build. This build should have been done months ago but timing is everything and after many stops and starts the project is nearing completion after taking the car off the road in July of 2017.

The build is oriented around track use (road course). It is fun when your car accelerates well, handles well, stops well and can be beat on all day long without burning up. My K04 setup fit that theme well and it was a ton of fun. This build takes all of the good things I learned and turns it up a notch with significantly more reliable power, better suspension, better brakes.

It will not be the fastest MKV out there by any means but it should be a very fun track toy if my past experience has guided me properly. I sold off almost all of my old performance parts that could not be reused for this build and replaced them with new so there was little equipment carried over. The APR intercooler was about the only thing I kept as it was in great shape. Oh I did keep the 42DD 3in Turbo Back exhaust system but I will be modifying it to a 3.5in catback with Burns Stainless Quiet muff.

Update 3-16-2019
Car finally coming along and on dyno yesterday for its initial 91oct tune (347 to the wheels) more tunes coming for all combos of meth and 91 and e85.

Update 7-25-2019
91 oct only tune - 360whp
91 oct and meth - 480whp*

*Eurodyne software, 27psi, full boost by 3500, very wide powerband for this size turbo.


Engine - FSI - BPY
Turbozentrum EFR 7163
Mahle 9:1 pistons 83mm
DM - Forged H-beam connecting rods
Calico Bearings
Supertech valves, retainers and guides
Golf R intake camshaft
Golf R oil pump with balance shafts removed
Fluidampr
IE pinned crank pulley
APR HPFP
RS4 fuel injectors
155 FPRV
CTS LPFP (TTRS)
Torquebyte PM3
Aquamist HFS4 v3.1 Direct inject - 10L reservoir in back hatch - vented to outside
HPA v2 intake manifold - drilled runners for jets
PTP firewall blanket
034 Motorsport Engine and Trans mounts
034 Motorsport pendulum arm
Dash mounted IPad mini and OBD Fusion software
INA roller cam follower conversion kit
APR intercooler
Custom intake
Custom DV relocate
Custom turbo piping
Red top Coils
Golf R Map
BSH Catch Can
42DD Full TBE with HiFlo 200cell cat (Magnaflow muff will be replace with Burns Quiet muff)
AWE boost gauge
iPad Mini 2 w/ODB11 connector for live engine monitoring

Trans
Unitronic Stage III DSG tune (custom with extra clamping force)
New OEM clutch kit and seals
MFactory LSD
INA Engineering DSG cooling system (cools trans fluid)

Suspension
Eibach Multi Pro R1 coilovers
034 Track Density strut mount
Epiceurotuning Tubular front control arms
034 Motorsport swaybar endlinks
034 Spherical Adjustable Rear control arms
034 Spherical rear trailing arms
034 Spherical adjustable rear toe links
Unibrace set - UB, XB and R
Eibach Sway bars - solid - 26f 23r
TyrolSport Deadset subframe kit
Corner balanced

Brakes
Brembo (red) 18Z brakes - 6 piston F - 4 piston R (345/310)
RS3 Master cylinder & new GTI booster
Hawk HPS pads F/R - STREET
G-Loc R16 and R10 F/R - TRACK
Neuspeed Stainless lines F/R
Wilwood parking calipers
Tyrolsport Master Bracket
RS3 Front brake ducts

Wheels - Tires
Street Set - Neuspeed RSe11 - 18x8 (+45) - MIchelin PS4 - 225/40
Track Set - Neuspeed RSe5 - 18x8 (+45) - Michelin Sport Cup 2 - 225/40
Note - 18z Brembo calipers fit under all these wheels without spacers


Lighting
FTP mod (FTP now come on with high beam – very bright)
FTP bulbs switched to yellow 2500K Noya
Euroswitch
Morimoto LED fogs

Seating
Recaro Speedseats
Schroth 4 point harnesses
EuroKreations Rear Seat delete kit

Notes
When doing the build a number of OEM parts that are not performance related were replaced for new.
Wheel bearings f/r
Starter
Air Cond Compressor
Throttle Body
Alternator
Vacuum tubing and connectors
Knock sensors
LPFP controller
Radiator and coolant hoses / connectors
Radiator Fans and mount
Windshield
Headlights
All front grills - OEM with vented fogs
 
Last edited:

clockwise33

New York Giants Fanatic
Location
NJ
Props to you for going all out with this platform, and thanks for sharing it with the community!

How much psi are you going to run?

I ask because I've been doing research on upgrading rods and I'm seeing in tuning communities of other brands (Subaru, Evo Etc) H beams are thought of as insufficient when running lots of boost. Most of the 500hp+ guys are using I beams (Eagle Turbotuff), similar to IE's Tuscan rods.
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
SoCal
Props to you for going all out with this platform, and thanks for sharing it with the community!

How much psi are you going to run?

I ask because I've been doing research on upgrading rods and I'm seeing in tuning communities of other brands (Subaru, Evo Etc) H beams are thought of as insufficient when running lots of boost. Most of the 500hp+ guys are using I beams (Eagle Turbotuff), similar to IE's Tuscan rods.
This was the approach I took...

I have a power goal of 450/450 ish. Keep in mind this is purpose built for track days and I want to be able to beat on it all day long. The EFR 7163 is a small frame turbo and it probably can be pushed to 500 but at the limit it will run very hot and for hours of constant road course work that is just asking for a major failure. I am not seeking max power but rather reliable power. H-Beam rods are good for handling a lot of torque and will be fine for my needs.

If I was going big frame turbo and 600-700hp that revved to 8K rpm I would go with I beams as tensile strength and weight savings really become important if you are making high hp at high rpm, where I am making most of my power well before 6500 and am more concerned with compressive forces that break the OEM rods. (torque) Forged rods, Calico bearings and ARP hardware should be all I need for what I am planning.

Anyway, the short of it is I decided on use and outcome I was looking for and built the motor accordingly.

I mostly used this great article put out by Integrated Engineering.

 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
SoCal
As per usual with this project it is one delay after another. There was an Aquamist cable missing from kit... so we are waiting for a new one.

Edit - AU sent email 10/19, part did arrive and they are working on finishing up the wiring.
 
Last edited:

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
SoCal
No, it has not been tuned and the suspension was all bolted on but not adjusted or aligned (likely way off considering the mods)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
SoCal
Well I was unable to get the Ohlins so I went with Eibach Multi Pro R1. I went through ECS for the Ohlins but they kept pushing back the ship dates so I eventually just asked for a refund.

I was ok with either choice. Wanted a quality Monotube with easy adjust. and I saved over 1000 dollars by finding this deal.

Usually they are about same price Ohlins about 2500 and R1 about 2300. I was browsing the Eibach clearance site this morning and they had both R1 and R2 at big discounts.

R1 - MSRP is 2441.00 Clearance Price is 1357.00

They also have R2 for sale which are remote reservoir separate comp and rebound adj.

R2 - MSRP is 3028.41 Clearance Price is 1857.70


These are really good deals - get em now if you are thinking about upgrading your suspension. Eibach Closeout LINK
 
Last edited:

Mostic

Go Kart Champion
Location
Egypt
Ride
VW Golf
Well I was unable to get the Ohlins so I went with Eibach Multi Pro R1. I went through ECS for the Ohlins but they kept pushing back the ship dates so I eventually just asked for a refund.



I was ok with either choice. Wanted a quality Monotube with easy adjust. and I saved over 1000 dollars by finding this deal.



Usually they are about same price Ohlins about 2500 and R1 about 2300. I was browsing the Eibach clearance site this morning and they had both R1 and R2 at big discounts.



R1 - MSRP is 2441.00 Clearance Price is 1357.00



They also have R2 for sale which are remote reservoir separate comp and rebound adj.



R2 - MSRP is 3028.41 Clearance Price is 1857.70





These are really good deals - get em now if you are thinking about upgrading your suspension. Eibach Closeout LINK


The R2 looks awesome, and only $500 differences.

https://eibach.com/us/i-5642-multi-pro-r2-coilover-kit-double-adjustable-damping-ride-height.html
 

Das Gespenst

New member
Location
Glen Ellyn
Holy shit, wish I had a spare $1800 lying around right about now. A second set of R2s would be awesome (no down time when sent out for rebuild).

So why didnt you go R2 at that price?
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
SoCal
Holy shit, wish I had a spare $1800 lying around right about now. A second set of R2s would be awesome (no down time when sent out for rebuild).

So why didnt you go R2 at that price?
Many other expenses all at once, remodeling a couple of our bathrooms and my TV got killed during demolition so of course I had to replace it immediately 75in 4K QLED bunch of money going out all at once, had to try and please the wife by making a cut somewhere.
 
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