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MK5 GTI on the Cheap

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
Yes, parking lights when the car is turned off, then completely off as soon as the key is removed except on night time where the coming home lights would stay for a few seconds. Actually before coding the DRL, I used to leave the switch on all the time (as headlights during daytime are mandatory in Europe for cars that don't have DRL installed)

You can find the auto headlights switch with the light sensor on Aliexpress, I guess most of them come from the same factory anyway
Ha, see I am the last one to advise on the original light switch. I did change mine fairly quickly to mimic, as close to my Audi's headlight switch, as I could.
 

Royson345

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Jersey
So I was curious, have you had the intake valves cleaned due to the carbon buildup from DI or have you at least taken a look at them recently?
 

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
So I was curious, have you had the intake valves cleaned due to the carbon buildup from DI or have you at least taken a look at them recently?
I have not inspected the valves for carbon build-up. The reason being is for the fact the engine runs so smoothly and not doing so will not cause catastrophic failure.
 

Royson345

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Jersey
I have not inspected the valves for carbon build-up. The reason being is for the fact the engine runs so smoothly and not doing so will not cause catastrophic failure.
Gotcha. I was only asking because German DI engines are notorious for bad carbon buildup on the intake valves. Being how your engine is so high on miles its hard to believe they are in great shape. Im at 104k miles and am curious as to how they are. It already misfires on cold starts, which is a symptom of bad buildup on the valves. Either way it needs to be done to ensure the problem doesnt get any worse.
 

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
Gotcha. I was only asking because German DI engines are notorious for bad carbon buildup on the intake valves. Being how your engine is so high on miles its hard to believe they are in great shape. Im at 104k miles and am curious as to how they are. It already misfires on cold starts, which is a symptom of bad buildup on the valves. Either way it needs to be done to ensure the problem doesnt get any worse.
From what I understand FSI is less prone to the carbon issue as the TSI. Or at least that is what the Humble Mechanic has said. I am sure most of my miles are highway miles, so that is what most likely has saved me. So far, knock on wood, no symptoms of carbon build-up have shown their ugly heads.
 

Royson345

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Jersey
From what I understand FSI is less prone to the carbon issue as the TSI. Or at least that is what the Humble Mechanic has said. I am sure most of my miles are highway miles, so that is what most likely has saved me. So far, knock on wood, no symptoms of carbon build-up have shown their ugly heads.
Well thats good to know! Wasnt aware the fsi was better than the tsi regarding the carbin buildup. Still, im curious to see how they are with my current mileage.

I ordered the timing kit from ecs to do the timing belt. Any advice before I dive into this project? Any potential hangups I can steer clear of? I have another vehicle so i have the luxury of taking my time with it as down time is a non issue.
 

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
I ordered the timing kit from ecs to do the timing belt. Any advice before I dive into this project? Any potential hangups I can steer clear of? I have another vehicle so i have the luxury of taking my time with it as down time is a non issue.
Biggest thing is to mark the pulleys, count the belt teeth and mark the belt. Make sure the new belt goes on in the exact position as the old one. Remember when the old belt is off and you are installing the new belt, you can move the crank pulley, back one tooth position, to help you get the belt on in the correct position. Otherwise you have to pull the belt really tight, which I was unable to do and I really think this is where most people mess this job up.
 

Royson345

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Jersey
Biggest thing is to mark the pulleys, count the belt teeth and mark the belt. Make sure the new belt goes on in the exact position as the old one. Remember when the old belt is off and you are installing the new belt, you can move the crank pulley, back one tooth position, to help you get the belt on in the correct position. Otherwise you have to pull the belt really tight, which I was unable to do and I really think this is where most people mess this job up.
Moving the crank pulley back one tooth will set the pulley in the correct position once the tensioner pulley is tightened correct?
 

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
Moving the crank pulley back one tooth will set the pulley in the correct position once the tensioner pulley is tightened correct?
Yes, back one tooth, install belt, matching the marks you have made on the new belt (all the counting and double checking from the old belt). Once the belt is slipped on move the crank forward to it previous position and you will see how tight the belt gets on the front side. Activate the tensioner and rotate twice then check the pulleys markings line-up.
 

Royson345

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
New Jersey
Yes, back one tooth, install belt, matching the marks you have made on the new belt (all the counting and double checking from the old belt). Once the belt is slipped on move the crank forward to it previous position and you will see how tight the belt gets on the front side. Activate the tensioner and rotate twice then check the pulleys markings line-up.
So after the belt is installed I rotate the crank back the one tooth I moved it before tightening the tensioner?
 

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
So after the belt is installed I rotate the crank back the one tooth I moved it before tightening the tensioner?
Yes, with the belt installed on the cam, back one tooth for the crank and start installing the belt on the crank. You will easily get about half the belt installed on the crank. At this point there are enough belt teeth engaged with the crank pulley that the belt will not slip. Rotate the crank and the belt will go fully engage the crank, then deploy the tensioner.
 

doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
Three Digit Test and Grease is Everywhere.

Since I am going back to Washington for the double header, I felt the need to replace the left front outer axle boot. I had a boot kit which was missing the large outer clamp. In my great wisdom I decided the get a universal boot clamp and install the new boot. Once installed I took the GTI for a test drive and upon my return, I threw it on the lift, all looked good.

Before patting myself on the back and celebrate a job well done, with an ice cold beer, I came to the conclusion I needed to perform a three digit test. I am sure some of you are wondering what the three digit test is. Well to refrain from incriminating oneself, I will leave the answer to your imagination. Once returning from the three digit test I discovered the universal clamp had failed and grease was everywhere.

I was able the get a complete axle boot kit from the local import part store. From the kit, I was able to rob the large clamp and pack of grease. I was able to manipulate the boot enough to add the grease and then installed the clamp, without removing the axle. This past the three digit test, so take it from me never use a universal cv boot clamp on a Volkswagen.

Also take note, I purchased a used cv boot clamp tool which worked great. It was made in the USA, but unsure what manufacture. Picture below.

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Used clamp tool..... Ebay............. $16.90
Lobro axle boot kit.... Import Parts......$25.15

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Cost / Maintenance ---------- $5131.60
Miles Driven ------------------ 14,856
------------------------------------------------
Cost Per Mile ---------------- $0.35
 

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doc280

Ready to race!
Location
North Carolina
I Did Go Back To Washington, Then Returned On The Same Day.

I did go back to Washington to catch the game which had been rained before. Due to scheduling constraints this round trip had to be made in one day, 724 miles. All performed as to to be expected, with the added surprise of obtaining 30.3 miles to the gallon, on the trip up there.

Before making this trip I did discover the diverter valve (version D) was leaking oil into the electrical connection and the diverter piston was sticking. I replaced the old diverter valve with a new version D valve.
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Pierburg version D diverter valve....EBay.....$18.59
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Cost / Maintenance ---------- $5150.19
Miles Driven ------------------ 16,266
------------------------------------------------
Cost Per Mile ---------------- $0.32
 

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vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
I did go back to Washington to catch the game which had been rained before. Due to scheduling constraints this round trip had to be made in one day, 724 miles. All performed as to to be expected, with the added surprise of obtaining 30.3 miles to the gallon, on the trip up there.

Before making this trip I did discover the diverter valve (version D) was leaking oil into the electrical connection and the diverter piston was sticking. I replaced the old diverter valve with a new version D valve.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Pierburg version D diverter valve....EBay.....$18.59
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Cost / Maintenance ---------- $5150.19
Miles Driven ------------------ 16,266
------------------------------------------------
Cost Per Mile ---------------- $0.32
Did you notice any difference in power?
 
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