GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

LIGHTWEIGHT Wheels

blaqsheep

Autocross Champion
Location
Canada
Car(s)
IS38 GTI
Meaty vs. OEM+

The ride isn't as bad as I thought it'd be on the 19's, I'm just more fearful they'll get damaged by our shitty roads.


 

victorofhavoc

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas City
So what exactly do you recommend? I would think have a wide front track would be good for high speed stability and transitions. I have to also clear the big ttrs brakes. Do you think an 18x9 et 40 would cause this numb steering?
You're right a wider track helps with high speed stability, but typically you want to get that width from widening everything in the suspension and driveline while keeping offset as high as possible. If you have a loose bike wheel around you can do an experiment to prove the point by spinning the wheel and trying to turn it left and right directly from the axle, then use a longer similar rod to do it again but from further away. You'll find it takes more force and is more inconsistent. If you lower offset you're changing the contact point of hub to wheel position from centerline and that affects where the hub is in relation to the spinning mass.

It's hard to explain/picture without being able to draw you a diagram and explain along the way... And I'm sorry for the not so great explanation...

40 offset would definitely bring things in closer to oem centerline. Overall that's closer to 0.5" between the two sides and would be a noticeable difference on track. My +45 is almost too close to the strut, but I took the compromise route. An adjustable lca could give you width and camber, but they're pricey and I think only verkline makes one right now. I'm still waiting to see how it works out for Mini7, but the spherical connections might be too rough for street use.
 

Gvazquez

Go Kart Champion
Location
North Carolina
You're right a wider track helps with high speed stability, but typically you want to get that width from widening everything in the suspension and driveline while keeping offset as high as possible. If you have a loose bike wheel around you can do an experiment to prove the point by spinning the wheel and trying to turn it left and right directly from the axle, then use a longer similar rod to do it again but from further away. You'll find it takes more force and is more inconsistent. If you lower offset you're changing the contact point of hub to wheel position from centerline and that affects where the hub is in relation to the spinning mass.

It's hard to explain/picture without being able to draw you a diagram and explain along the way... And I'm sorry for the not so great explanation...

40 offset would definitely bring things in closer to oem centerline. Overall that's closer to 0.5" between the two sides and would be a noticeable difference on track. My +45 is almost too close to the strut, but I took the compromise route. An adjustable lca could give you width and camber, but they're pricey and I think only verkline makes one right now. I'm still waiting to see how it works out for Mini7, but the spherical connections might be too rough for street use.
I think I kinda get what you're saying. I appreciate taking the time to explain that also. The suspension geometry is basically everything and those verkline control arms look to be pretty legit. I believe they adjust caster too.
 

Desslok

Autocross Champion
Location
PA
Car(s)
2019 Rabbit
Meaty vs. OEM+

The ride isn't as bad as I thought it'd be on the 19's, I'm just more fearful they'll get damaged by our shitty roads.



The Pretorias are pretty wheels, but I vote for the meatier look. 19" wheels look cool. 2" thick sidewalls don't.
 

Acadia18

Autocross Champion
Location
The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
Car(s)
2019 Golf R

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
Well, not agreeing with you. You're clearly wrong.

Good thing it's subjective. I rather have TE37 than those Neubends
 
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