Installing a Capacitor...

[Imadeit]

I have a capacitor that I would like to put into my car, cause the amp get really hot after about an hour and change and shuts off automatically. It is an older amp w/o a fan hooked up to a 12' kicker solo baric. I wanted to take some of the stress of the amp w/ a cap and also stop the flickering lights. Can anyone give me some instructions, it probably needs to be charged too. Or should I throw money at best buy and tell them to do it. Thanks fellas.

 

[nikbrewer]

I am not very knowledgeable with caps, but if its over heating, not sure this will help. It should help with the flickering lights, not sure about the over heating

 

[Jersey UG MKV]

Caps are easy to install, but all it does is stop power surges and help with your flickering lights. As far as amp overheating, you might want to think a bout a new amp, as a cap won't help you at all.

 

[CoccoBill]

A cap just ensures the current fed to your amp stays stable without peaks and slopes, provided your battery and electrical system is able to provide it. It won't provide any extra "power", actually on the contrary since it's an extra electrical component that needs to be charged. As stated, it'll probably in no way help your amp overheating.

Which brand/model is your amp, what's the resistance of the elements you're running with it and are you sure it's able to handle the load?

 

[julito04]

as long as its not a flux capacitor, it should be easy :biggrin:

 

[Imadeit]

Caps are easy to install, but all it does is stop power surges and help with your flickering lights. As far as amp overheating, you might want to think a bout a new amp, as a cap won't help you at all.

New amps are not cheap lol nor do I know what I need to look for a bargain. I am looking for performance mods. Dont really feel like adding an amp instead of an intake. I suppose I could just suck it up for now.

 

[plac]

how about start the proper way, by posting the amp specs and your subs wiring configuration?

 

[parapraxis24]

how about start the proper way, by posting the amp specs and your subs wiring configuration?

That would help. Along with where the amp is installed, if it doesn't have proper ventilation it can easily over heat and go in to protect.

Oh, and a capacitor will not stop that from happening.

 

[A41.8QTM]

Very possible you are driving the amp at the limits by running the wiring a certain way...maybe going 2ohm bridged for an amp that isn't meant to handle that.

 

[plac]

Very possible you are driving the amp at the limits by running the wiring a certain way...maybe going 2ohm bridged for an amp that isn't meant to handle that.

I didnt want to mention that, because you assume everyone that posts here knows the basics. But thats not always the case. The ohms is the first most obvious thing to check indeed. Also.. has it always overheated, or did it just start recently?

 

[Imadeit]

I didnt want to mention that, because you assume everyone that posts here knows the basics. But thats not always the case. The ohms is the first most obvious thing to check indeed. Also.. has it always overheated, or did it just start recently?

I am at work slacking off and dont know the specs on the amp, I will get those later. It started overheating with this sub, the kicker. I used to have two ten in kick comps. I had best buy wire everything, cause of a lack of time. Thanks for the help, I will update soon. Though it is obvious the cap is not a solution. Hmm maybe I will sell it for a part lol.

Edit:

There is the amp and sub that I currently have...thanks again

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6198_Power+Acoustik+LT980-2.html
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-pppl5olSE3d/p_2066S10L54/Kicker-Solo-Baric-L5-Series-06S10L54.html

 

[eROCK]

I am at work slacking off and dont know the specs on the amp, I will get those later. It started overheating with this sub, the kicker. I used to have two ten in kick comps. I had best buy wire everything, cause of a lack of time. Thanks for the help, I will update soon. Though it is obvious the cap is not a solution. Hmm maybe I will sell it for a part lol.

Yeah, I agree with the above posts....check the specs of your Solobaric to see if it's 2ohm or 4ohm, and then check to see if your amp can handle that. Or just post the model numbers here and we can verify. Do you still have the two tens? Can you run them for a day to test this theory out?

 

[darcness]

It's likely an ohm load thing. The new sub is probably running at a 2ohm load causing the amp to draw too much current, and hence overheat. It's going to eventually blow the caps in the amp if you don't fix it. You need to run the sub and amp at a proper ohm load, always.

If your sub is wired parallel (+ to + and - to -) then you're running 2ohms. The only options you have with that sub are 2ohms or 8ohms. You're better off getting a different sub or amp. An amp that can run 2ohm mono stable or a sub with dual 2ohm voice coils would be a better setup. If you wire your Kicker to 8ohms (series), the amp is going to be pushing much lower wattage and it'll likely sound like crap.

 

[A41.8QTM]

If those are the correct specs then the amp should be able to handle the 4ohn load of the sub. I don't know if that sub is DVC and if so is it D2 or D4 and how exactly it is wired.

 

[Imadeit]

I think that it is DVC (D2)...other than that...it is wired from battery to back of the car on the drivers side back seat...grounded in the trunk if I am not mistaken...