How to replace N80 canister purge valve?

[cbx750p]

I kept getting this code even after changing the Charcoal Canister. Cleared the code repeatedly but it comes back after a few kilometers of harsh driving...

Thursday,20,December,2012,11:05:49:24118
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.4
Data version: 20120807



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Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.lbl
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 115 Q HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0020
Software Coding: 040300031C070160
Work Shop Code: WSC 91777 210 77305
VCID: 346DF3EA576559B8F5D
2 Faults Found:

001286 - Idle Control System
P0506 - 002 - RPM Lower than Expected - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 67451 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 13:33:40

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 718 /min
Load: 24.3 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 95.0°C
Temperature: 66.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.335 V

001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 13
Mileage: 67813 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 13:25:22

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 838 /min
Load: 24.3 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 89.0°C
Temperature: 49.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.843 V

Today, I replaced the carnister purge valve N80, new hose, the Pressure Limiting Double Check valve....the code cleared and did not seem to return anymore.

Getting to the Double Check valve was a real pain ! The mechanic had to remove the throttle housing just to release a retaining screw of the assembly.

Noticed that there are so much oil everywhere inside the connecting pipes and throttle....I suspect that the purge valve and double check valve failure may have been due to the excessive amount of oil in the intake system.....looks like the Oil Catch Tank may be necessary nevertheless.

The old Double Check Valve Assembly..

The new Double Check Valve Assembly

Oily throttle body

Oil soaked connecting pipe to throttle body

 

[Elmster]

Error codes (EVAP) and irregular idle speed

Hello All

I red this thread and I think I might have a similar problem. I got the following codes:

001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit P0642 - 002 - Low - Intermittent
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control P3137 - 001 - Basic Setting not Completed - Intermittent
001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent - MIL ON

I would like to know from you guys, did it finally help when you replaced those N80 valve and the second valve as well? Did you got the error code still again?

Another thing: My car's idle speed is very irregular, it feels that the engine is running with only three cylinders. And from nowadays it has been started acting weird; when I have driven and the engine is warm (temperature gauge 90 degrees) and the engine is running at idle speed; idle speed suddenly increases to about 1200 rpm and then suddenly might again drop to about 700-800 rpm and is very irregular. Mileage is now about 141000 km's. Ignition coils have been changed since 20000 km's ago and all services have been done as well at time.

Could this above mentioned idle speed problem be as a result of broken N80 valve or is it something else? I think there is a loss of power also but broken N80 valve might cause this as well.

I appreciate all help, thank you.

 

[Sanzio]

Hi Elmster,

I don't think your idle RPM issue is related to the N80 or the double-check valves. I would look into the other two DTC your car has. I would also clean the throttle body using a simple throttle body cleaner for carbon depositions and see if continues with the idle RPM variations. It is a cheap and simple way to start.

But I am almost 100% sure that your idle problem is not related to the N80 or double-check valves.

Good luck with that!

 

[Sanzio]

Hi cbx750p,

Thanks for sharing this!! Great job, so did you ever test your double-check valve before or after replacing it, with a vaccum gauge? Has the DTC P0441 returned after that?

I have not replaced my canister (which is the same as yours), but I took it away the engine and blow through it, it was like clogged or something, since it was difficult for the air to pass through. After doing that, I install it back on the car and did not get the code during weeks. So in my case I suspect I should replace the canister but perhaps it would be a better idea to replace the double-check too, as you did.

Greetings!

 

[Sanzio]

Charcoal canister/filter cleaning

Hello,

I finally decided to check my charcoal canister, since the check engine light kept showing up under the same EVAP trouble code (P0441). Had to disassemble the whole thing and clean it. It is important to mention that my canister looks like this:



I think for the USA and other regions, the charcoal canister is located in the back of the car and it has different design.

So, the first thing to do is to detach the hose and pipe from the canister (by releasing the clamp in the hose with tweezers and twisting clockwise a little the pipe connector until it is free to pull it upward).

Then you will need to release the canister from its support bracket. The release tab is on the back-lower part of the canister (I did it using a flat screwdriver and pulling upward the canister at the same time). This is pretty simple.

Once having the canister in my hands (it is heavier than it looks!), I used a sharp knife to take out the cover that is welded to the canister (like plastic weld), being careful not to break the cover (it is also welded in the middle!):




As the canister is filled with active charcoal (pellets shape), I used an old satellite dish (any metallic surface bigger than 1.5 x 1.5 ft. could work) to spread the pellets out of the canister, after removing a couple of "sponge" filters out of it.





To set fire to the pellets I used a gas L.P. can and I got a spatula to stir the pellets while they were on fire. This process is used to burn the gas fumes that remained in the pellets; to absorb the fumes is their main function but at some point they cannot hold any more fumes and/or they prevent the free flow of fumes). So while on fire, I stirred the pellets using the spatula for about 8 to 10 minutes or until they barely burned. Also, it is very important not to let them carbonize, otherwise they could become useless.

To smother the fire, I used rags over the pellets (not water!).



On the other hand, I had to clean a small filter that is attached to the canister cover. I just pulled it from the underside of the cover:



To clean it, I submerged it in gasoline and used a small brush to remove debris. I used some compressed air too, but I don't think this was useful. You may try it though:



I also wiped the inside of the canister and sanded the edge of canister and cover (where they were bonded/welded) in order to level both surfaces. Finally I put the pellets and "sponge" filters back into the canister. Then I used hi-temp black silicone to seal again the canister. I tryed to make a thin silicone path over the edge of the canister so that it did not spill out (or inside) the canister when putting back the cover on and doing some pressure (TIP: I installed the canister back in the car, so that it could not move; then when I put the cover back on the canister already with fresh silicone over its edges, I used a hard empty carton about the same area of the canister cover, put the carton over the canister and lowered the hood over the carton, as you do not need too much weight over the silicone joint).



I left the car alone at least one night before driving it again. Then I connected the hose and pipe back again into the canister and voila! I have not gotten the code again since then and noticed a small increase in power; problem was the saturated charcoal with gas fumes and the clogged small round filter on the canister cover.

I hope you find this DIY helpful and good luck!

 

[Zach L]

Congrats! Thanks for the good info and keeping up with this thread.

 

[rubixcube101]

Hey guys I was wondering if someone might be able to help me with my codes?

I've tested my n80 valve and I know its definitely not that. I have a feeling its the pressure limiting valve but i don't necessarily want to fork out $100+ without being certain. Coil packs have been replaced recently as well. Also I've done a carbon clean and cleaned all the injectors. I don't recall a whole bunch of oil in the TB when i took it of.

Recently I got one with the intake manifold runner control as well and the car was acting a little lumpy whilst driving. One of the guide pins on one of the intake manifold flaps are broken, I'm not sure the severity of this issue as the car seemed to be running fine for 10000kms after the carbon clean when i noticed this was broken. I would really like to get all my faults sorted for piece of mind. Thanks in advance.

001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 121325 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 09:43:16
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 762 /min
Load: 16.1 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 64.0°C
Temperature: 25.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1000.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V

012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control
P3137 - 001 - Basic Setting not Completed - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 0 km
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 151 /min
Load: 100.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 72.0°C
Temperature: 59.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 1010.0 mbar
Voltage: 9.906 V
Readiness: 0000 0000

 

[Sanzio]

Hello rubixcube101,

How does your carbon canister look like? Where is it located? Under the hood or near your gas tank? I would recommend you whether to clean it as described in my previous post or to buy a new one, and test your car again.

Not sure about your other code, but it seems you may need VAG-COM or similar to do a basic setting reset for that component (Intake Manifold Runner Control). Had to do the same with an EGR valve for a VW Sharan, after cleaning that valve.

Good luck!

 

[rubixcube101]

Hello rubixcube101,



How does your carbon canister look like? Where is it located? Under the hood or near your gas tank? I would recommend you whether to clean it as described in my previous post or to buy a new one, and test your car again.



Not sure about your other code, but it seems you may need VAG-COM or similar to do a basic setting reset for that component (Intake Manifold Runner Control). Had to do the same with an EGR valve for a VW Sharan, after cleaning that valve.



Good luck!

Thanks Sanzio, will have a look at the carbon canister as you mentioned. Same as yours. I have a vagcom so I'll try and do a basic setting output test. However that code hasn't seem to come back thankfully. So it's just the evap code that is the concern at the moment.

 

[idyllik]

hey sanzio, is there any sorts of valves in the canister?
anything stopping us from just connecting it directly without the canister?

 

[0-60Motorsports]

Whats the part number for the valve circled in red for the golf MK6 R?

 

[Hexxum001]

Hey guys, just a fyi. I was throwing codes P0455 and P0171. Obviously the first thing I checked was my gas cap. It was fine and still in good condition. So I changed the N80 purge valve, cleared the codes and so far so good after a week (I hope I didn't just jinx myself). Thanks to this forum for all the good info.

 

[Sanzio]

hey sanzio, is there any sorts of valves in the canister?
anything stopping us from just connecting it directly without the canister?

Hey idyllik,

There's no valves directly connected to the canister. In my car (see pics by me), there is just the N80 valve but it is near the engine and far from the canister. I guess that if you supress the canister and connect directly the hose that comes from the gas tank and then to the N80, you could get a rich air to fuel mixture (AF), but I'm not sure if that would result into something worse. The ECU would need to adjust the AF mix with less gasoline or more air. Further, I think the excess gasoline fumes pressure in your system (without the canister) may eventually (remotely though) damage a hose connection, but it is unlikely.

So bottom line, it is possible to suppress the canister (adding some piece of hose to replace the empty space left by the canister).

Hope that helps!

 

[Natalie]

I've started to have the P0441 code as well. Code seems to come on randomly. I'll clear it, gone for a week and then it comes back. I searched the forums a bit and came across this thread. I'm not completely sure of the output tests that you can perform solely with vagcom but I decided to replace the N80 canister the other week. Cleared the code and ran fine for 300 miles and now the same code is back.

164k miles on my GTI. Is the vapor canister hard to replace (part #06F133781L)?

Address 01: Engine Labels: 06F-907-115-AXX.clb
Control Module Part Number: 1K0 907 115 H HW: 8P0 907 115 B
Component and/or Version: 2.0l R4/4V TFSI 0040
Software Coding: 0403010A18070160
Work Shop Code: WSC 02408 444 54392
VCID: 2B7BD07F8A922166F4-807E
1 Fault Found:

001089 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 002 - Incorrect Flow - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 263637 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 12:12:00

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 772 /min
Load: 17.2 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: 93.0°C
Temperature: 36.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 960.0 mbar
Voltage: 13.970 V


Readiness: 0000 0000

 

[Sanzio]

Hello Natalie,

Did you replace both the canister and the N80 valve or just the canister? I found that my car's problem was a clogged canister output.