Hey there everyone,
If you’re a member of other car forums you might have seen our ‘how to’ threads regarding component speaker installation. Apparently a few of the members here certainly have because I’ve received quite a few emails recently asking if I could do one up here on installing three way component sets into the Golf. So without further ado; this is how to install components into Golf doors.
Step one: Take one original door complete from factory. Remove any residue left on the door in preparation for sound deadening.
Step two: Apply sound deadening to outer skin (although in the photo you can only see the deadening through the midbass hole you do need to do the entire outer skin – this often necessitates the removal of the inner / outer door skin and / or window mech entirely).
Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the midbass drivers. Your midranges in the top of the door will also require diffusers if they’re not sealed units (many smaller 2” & 3” midrange drivers are sealed units).
Step four: Attach aftermarket cables onto the three factory speaker wire pairs. The factory wires are a large enough gauge to handle up to around 100 watts continuous. Any more power than this and you’ll need to run new larger cable runs through into the doors. We tend to solder the aftermarket cables on about four inches back from where the plug would sit. This way when you sell the car you simply de-solder the aftermarket cables and solder the factory plugs right back in. Once soldered they should be heat shrunk, not taped! We also put a plug on the midrange driver too so the door trim can be removed if need be.
Step five: Make the baffles. These take a similar shape to the factory ones so they can screw into the factory screw holes (thus avoiding damaging the door). They're usually constructed from MDF but we've made them from perspex or even 6061 alloy depending on application. If they are MDF then they should be painted with polyester resin to avoid absorbing water. The midbass one will obviously be much thicker than the midrange one.
Step six: Sound deaden inner skin and remove all air bubbles. Make sure you leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains.
If you’re a member of other car forums you might have seen our ‘how to’ threads regarding component speaker installation. Apparently a few of the members here certainly have because I’ve received quite a few emails recently asking if I could do one up here on installing three way component sets into the Golf. So without further ado; this is how to install components into Golf doors.
Step one: Take one original door complete from factory. Remove any residue left on the door in preparation for sound deadening.

Step two: Apply sound deadening to outer skin (although in the photo you can only see the deadening through the midbass hole you do need to do the entire outer skin – this often necessitates the removal of the inner / outer door skin and / or window mech entirely).

Step three: Add diffuser panels behind the midbass drivers. Your midranges in the top of the door will also require diffusers if they’re not sealed units (many smaller 2” & 3” midrange drivers are sealed units).

Step four: Attach aftermarket cables onto the three factory speaker wire pairs. The factory wires are a large enough gauge to handle up to around 100 watts continuous. Any more power than this and you’ll need to run new larger cable runs through into the doors. We tend to solder the aftermarket cables on about four inches back from where the plug would sit. This way when you sell the car you simply de-solder the aftermarket cables and solder the factory plugs right back in. Once soldered they should be heat shrunk, not taped! We also put a plug on the midrange driver too so the door trim can be removed if need be.


Step five: Make the baffles. These take a similar shape to the factory ones so they can screw into the factory screw holes (thus avoiding damaging the door). They're usually constructed from MDF but we've made them from perspex or even 6061 alloy depending on application. If they are MDF then they should be painted with polyester resin to avoid absorbing water. The midbass one will obviously be much thicker than the midrange one.


Step six: Sound deaden inner skin and remove all air bubbles. Make sure you leave enough clearance for door handle and lock control rods to move freely. Also leave a little deadening around the top of the speaker hole to act as a 'roof' against water when it rains.

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