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Highest mileage on a FSI?

Nd272

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Ireland
I’m at 140k , only have the car about 6 months, put about 4K miles on it in that time, plan on changing the oil every 5 k going forward
I’m revo stage 1 as well


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Bankze8

New member
Location
South Africa
Got my car exactly a month ago from today. Got with 80k miles, bone stock. Had the cam follower, PCV, diverter valve and control arm bushings changed out within the first 2 weeks on ownership. Then changed the brake pads... So far love this car, it’s not burning any oil at all but noticed that the temp hovers between 80-90 degrees I suspected a failing thermostat, will change that in the next 2 weeks along with the coolant expansion tank and get a good flush of the system with proper coolant going in. Oil change and gearbox oil change will happen just before adding a downpipe around mid March. Timing belt was done in 2017 by the previous owner, got all receipts of any & all work done on the car


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Nd272

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Ireland
Got my car exactly a month ago from today. Got with 80k miles, bone stock. Had the cam follower, PCV, diverter valve and control arm bushings changed out within the first 2 weeks on ownership. Then changed the brake pads... So far love this car, it’s not burning any oil at all but noticed that the temp hovers between 80-90 degrees I suspected a failing thermostat, will change that in the next 2 weeks along with the coolant expansion tank and get a good flush of the system with proper coolant going in. Oil change and gearbox oil change will happen just before adding a downpipe around mid March. Timing belt was done in 2017 by the previous owner, got all receipts of any & all work done on the car


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Best of luck with it, I’ve had two mkv gtis the first one done exactly the same thing was a thermostat, either that or it’s a coolant sensor, if it’s fluctuating between halfway and the left hand side is mostly likely the thermostat

The specialist I bring mine to also does the intake valve cleaning while doing this job as the intake manifold has to come off so it saves on the labour to get both done at the same time

Re oil my first car didn’t really burn too much , my current one does burn a fair bit more, I am stage 1 though and have higher mileage (140k) versus my old car which had around 100k on it

My current car is using about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart every thousand miles


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Bankze8

New member
Location
South Africa
Best of luck with it, I’ve had two mkv gtis the first one done exactly the same thing was a thermostat, either that or it’s a coolant sensor, if it’s fluctuating between halfway and the left hand side is mostly likely the thermostat

The specialist I bring mine to also does the intake valve cleaning while doing this job as the intake manifold has to come off so it saves on the labour to get both done at the same time

Re oil my first car didn’t really burn too much , my current one does burn a fair bit more, I am stage 1 though and have higher mileage (140k) versus my old car which had around 100k on it

My current car is using about 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart every thousand miles


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Thanks bud. You’ve had 2 of them, must surely believe I made a good choice... yep it’s to the left so I’m pretty sure it’s the thermostat. The intake valve clean was done by the previous owner 5k miles ago so I’m good.

My mechanic says to do the job he would charge me $187 including labour and parts (coolant bottle, cap, thermostat and the coolant flush)

As for oil I’ve done 2.5k miles and oil level shows extremely minimal movement



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Nd272

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Ireland
Thanks bud. You’ve had 2 of them, must surely believe I made a good choice... yep it’s to the left so I’m pretty sure it’s the thermostat. The intake valve clean was done by the previous owner 5k miles ago so I’m good.

My mechanic says to do the job he would charge me $187 including labour and parts (coolant bottle, cap, thermostat and the coolant flush)

As for oil I’ve done 2.5k miles and oil level shows extremely minimal movement



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Good stuff, looks like you have it all under control. Handy that the previous owner had the valve cleaning done as well, one less thing to worry about .

Good that it’s not burning too much oil, some burn some don’t as I said my previous one used little to no oil. I am fortunate with my current car that I bought it from a gti specialist here in Ireland and it was actually belong to one of the guys who runs the garage. They had been looking after the car for a number of years for a customer who decided to sell up and the garage owner actually bought it off him.

I’ll be bringing it in at about 1000 more miles for an oil change and ask them about maybe using a higher viscosity oil to see will it burn less (seeing as though I am stage 1 tuned) I’ve heard some guys using 5w40 instead of 5w30 when tuned , don’t know if it makes a difference or not

Want to get an intake next and a down pipe and go stage 2 , we will see!

Hope your car goes good for you best of luck with it


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vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
How much oil does it burns? Yes, using an higher viscosity oil will mitigate somewhat the issue but it's better to just top up the oil in my opinion (although 5W-40 is also totally fine)
 

Nd272

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Ireland
How much oil does it burns? Yes, using an higher viscosity oil will mitigate somewhat the issue but it's better to just top up the oil in my opinion (although 5W-40 is also totally fine)


Hiya,

I guess in the 4000 miles I’ve had it I reckon I’ve used about 2 liters of oil, usually check it every week an top up as necessary. The first half to three quarters of a liter were used when I had forgotten to check it for a while and it was just above the min line (light hadn’t come on or anything) I’m usually religiously checking it every week.

I’m usually in fairly dense commuter traffic on highway going to work and coming back so that is probably a factor too.


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Bankze8

New member
Location
South Africa
Good stuff, looks like you have it all under control. Handy that the previous owner had the valve cleaning done as well, one less thing to worry about .

Good that it’s not burning too much oil, some burn some don’t as I said my previous one used little to no oil. I am fortunate with my current car that I bought it from a gti specialist here in Ireland and it was actually belong to one of the guys who runs the garage. They had been looking after the car for a number of years for a customer who decided to sell up and the garage owner actually bought it off him.

I’ll be bringing it in at about 1000 more miles for an oil change and ask them about maybe using a higher viscosity oil to see will it burn less (seeing as though I am stage 1 tuned) I’ve heard some guys using 5w40 instead of 5w30 when tuned , don’t know if it makes a difference or not

Want to get an intake next and a down pipe and go stage 2 , we will see!

Hope your car goes good for you best of luck with it


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My mechanic recommended I switch over to Shell Helix Ultra 5W40. I have been using this oil in previous vehicle and never had issues with it. I’ll be getting a tune soon, my friend reckons I tune with Unitronic. His stage 2 plus

Thanks though many happy miles are in order.


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Nd272

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Ireland
I’m at 146k now, just bad timing belt water pump and alternator belt done. It’s due another dsg service at 160k but will get that done at next oil service. I’m just wondering from all you guys on here with fsi engines, have we all done the cam chain and tensioner , it’s something I’ve only really learned about recently , I need to check the paperwork from the indy vw specialist who I bring the car to.

aside from that is it worth just fixing things before they go wrong at this this high mileage, recondition the turbo budget for other parts etc or just keep on top of the maintenance till it gives up and drop a new engine in ?
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Mine has 154k miles on it. It's had the head rebuilt and new rings and rod bearings at 120k miles. The tune I had at the time was boosting 28 psi and it began to smoke quite a bit form the exhaust...and made it necessary to repair. I change the oil each year because not putting many miles on it now. It uses less than 1L per oil change and I put between 4k and 5k miles yearly. I have it tuned back to the original K04 tune by GIAC and boost is 23 to 25 psi max.

I recently began to freshen it up. I installed new wheel well liners, the front splash guard, left headlight assembly, new injectors, new oil filter housing assembly, new LPFP(upgraded to 265L/hr), thermostat, and new +battery cable. Next is a new K04 turbo and catted down-pipe, because turbo has nearly 100k miles on it and it's non-catted right now but going back. Also, going to do new coil-overs.
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ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Why do you want to put a catted DP? Also why replace the turbo if it's not bad?
DP and turbo aren't going on just yet. "Next", ↑ up there, means the turbo and DP are going on when the turbo is shot. The turbo has near 100k miles on it so it could take time. The catted DP is because my rail pressure target is just 110 bar instead of 140 bar as it should be per my tune. After much back and forth with GIAC, we determined nothing is wrong...it just must be because something is different. I switched to a K04+ tune by DriverMotorsport for a couple of years. That is when I removed the catalyst and I also added a Forge WGA. I switched back from DM to GIAC and then it had the target raill pressure of 110 bar when it as said, should be 140 as it was before those changes. So, when I do the turbo(when needed), I am going to do a catted DP at the same time. Just in case it isn't the WGA causing the fueling issue and so I don't install just the turbo and then find I need to replace the DP to see if a catted DP fixes the fueling. Just want to remove both changes that occurred at the same time. Then I can go back to GIAC and say "OK, now what?" if the problem remains. When I had GIAC loaded pre DM tune, the target did go to 140 bar. Since making those two changes while running the DM and returning to the GIAC tune????? We, GIAC and myself, have gone through hours of discussions and numerous emailing of data logs. They can only figure it is due to the changes and for some weird reason, fuel pressure is not needed. Again, ?????

Basically, just trying to solve a mystery.
 

vwengineer

Ready to race!
Location
Switzerland
Ahah yes seems to be a strange story. If I understand how these cars are tuned, they define the engine load they want according to some variables and the ECU then somehow computes the boost/fuel values by itself, they do not specify these targets directly?
 

ROH ECHT

K04 PLAY
Location
PDX OR
Car(s)
2007 MKV GTI
Ahah yes seems to be a strange story. If I understand how these cars are tuned, they define the engine load they want according to some variables and the ECU then somehow computes the boost/fuel values by itself, they do not specify these targets directly?
It's what GIAC was saying I believe. They had me remove all WG preload on the Forge WGA and the rail pressure target actually did go above 110 bar. So, it may just be that the rail pressure target could be fixed (not that it is really broken or even wrong according to GIAC.) by going one lighter spring in the WGA. I may just try that before pulling the trigger on the turbo & DP ordering. Would be nice to see how that would affect the rail pressure data. The target since switching back from DM never went over 110 bar. Then, again, when GIAC suggested remove the preload....rail pressure actually went up to near 130 bar...between 125 and 129 IIRC. But then I put just a tiny bit of preload back on just to ensure there was no slop at the rod the WG linkage and it went right back to 110 bar. They did say the Forge WGA has had an effect on tunes on others...they just hadn't seen it happen yet on a MK5. I believe the WGA has the yellow spring and I do have the set of other rated springs and I will try the blue first. Everything is running fine so there is no rush...and again, it is just an unsolved mystery I want to solve. I have noticed one thing since the 110 bar target appeared....the cam follower life has extended due to all this.
 

kingkhan

Ready to race!
Location
Canada
I got my 08 last year, but am currently at 300K KM ~ 180K miles. As far as I can tell, it still has the original drivetrain including the clutch and turbo which are still going strong. The car was mostly driven on the highway, but it was neglected when I got it.

I got the following work done when I bought it:

- Complete timing belt + waterpump, and timing chain tensioner.
- New valve cover gasket
- Cam follower replaced
- replaced all coils and plugs and diverter valve, but still had a bad misfire
- PCV replaced, but misfire was still present.
- Ended up doing a full intake cleaning along with replacing an injector which finally resolved the misfire.
- Full set of brakes
- VW Rust warranty replaced hood and front part of rockers.

The car does burn some oil, but nothing too crazy. My plan is to try and put as much mileage as possible on this car to see how far I can take it.
 
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