Problem: my bulbs, with the ignitor and plastic "holder" intact, cannot seemingly twist into the headlight assembly. I will get home from a commute to find my headlights dim, open up the back of the housing, and find the bulbs/ignitor had fallen back out of the housing.
I've spent an hour in my garage trying to figure out a correct orientation and nothing works... they are just loose and will fall. Does it get too hot in there for me to just tape the bulb/ignitor up on the housing?
EDIT: reread the thread and seems like I can't install correctly with the ignitor already installed.
EDIT EDIT: Ok, when you secure the outer ring with bulb your hand is the *only* thing keeping the bulb from falling forward. I don't get it? How on earth would you secure the ignitor to the rear of the bulb if the bulb isn't secured into anything? The engineering of this piece is insane.
Old thread but oh well...i got ebay bulbs due to its just a light bulb ...i didnt remove bumoer just took my time takibg it apart and watching how things line up then i installed bulb then oyshed ring on n turn then snapped red/blk box back in and plugged back in harness...wayyyy easier then removing headlight imo
If you are having problems installing the hid igniter here's a tip... Before trying to install it take a look at the inner plastic ring inside the igniter, the notches on the inner ring should line up with the notches on the igniter which goes on the bulb. So if you find yourself using way too much force to snap the igniter in place there's your problem
You can move the ring around by using a small flat head screwdriver
If you are having issues getting the igniter to clip on, look at the inside and you should see a plastic ring, if the notches don't line up take a small flat head screw driver and rotate it until they line up with the outside notches. Then it should just clip right in with little effort.
My passenger side has been going out after several minutes of driving. Ordered new bulbs to discover the ballast wasn't locked in place and it has melted the base of the bulb. The two contacts on the ballast have carbon buildup, is it safe to clean this with electrical cleaner? Or do these ballasts hold a charge like a capacitor?
Thanks for a great DIY! The summaries on page 11 were very helpful.
The most helpful suggestion from the summary was practice the installation with your old bulb until you're comfortable with the procedure. Also, make sure there are no burs on the mating surfaces that will impede assembly. A TINY amount of dielectric grease on the mating plastic surfaces also helps. Good luck!
It's funny how easy this really is to do once you know how to do the process. I think I did my last bulb change in under 1 minute. It comes from understanding the proper alignments and an understanding of how the igniter connection works.
I recently had to swap out bulbs and I think they're disagreeing with my car. I found a link either here or the 'tex to a third party Korean manufacturer, so bought a pair (was around $40 iirc) they installed fine but I've been having intermittent issues with both sides randomly going out and back on again. The bulb model is a d2c which I was under the impression was compatible with a d2s socket.
The passenger side bulb is dead, I attacked it with a continuity tester today, the fuses check out using the same method. They are rated for 35 watts, and iirc mine were 6000k's. The driver side occasionally goes out but no real idea as to why and it is completely random whether driving on a flat stretch or hammering around a corner and hopping a sidewalk (no I don't really drive over sidewalks). I bought them off Amazon, brand is MaxLux.
Just wanted to add my 2 cents. I got the "Left Dipped Beam Not Working" message and headlamp symbol on my dash, and sure enough, the left headlamp was inoperative. Pepboys and AutoZone told my wife to GTFO with her GTI. One guy said "That installation took us 3 hours, and we still didn't get it done. You gotta go to the dealer.")
When I got the left bulb out, I saw that it had shattered into two pieces ("well, here's your problem!") Don't know how the f*ck that happened.
Tricks that worked for me:
Use a little bit of dielectric grease! As I was practicing screwing the locking ring on and off, it got stuck, and took about 5 minutes and a lot of torque to get it unstuck. After that, I applied about a peppercorn size amount of dielectric grease to a Q-tip and spread it around the inside of the locking ring. After that, installation was a cinch. If you have trouble unscrewing the locking ring, know that I really wailed on it and finally got it to pop off.
On the lip of the plastic base of the bulb, where the glass bulb enters the plastic, there are a few little nipples sticking out. (Don't confuse these with the larger knobs on the base of the bulb). I filed those nipples down a bit with a nail file.
Practice! You are doing this blind, so practice 1) screwing the locking ring on and off without the bulb, 2) screwing the locking ring on and off with the old bulb. Your hand will learn how it all works, and when you do it for real it'll be easier.
The driver's side was more difficult because there's less room. Best position was to stand facing the engine, slightly to the left of the headlamp assembly, and reach in with my left hand. Then your wrist is lined up well to screw and unscrew components.
Read the tips on page 11 and study the orientations of the bulb in the locking ring. That helped. Also, remember, all the pieces screw off and screw on the same way. Keep that rotation in your head while you have your hand in there.
Sounds complicated but if you read up in advance it's really easy.