Help - LPFP Install Fail - Strange Issue

[Twist1]

Also if you have a 2018 don't even think about doing lines without some major cussing. VW decided it would be cute to tape the fuel line to the evap line. Which is not accessable in the channel.

But after a lot of pita my car is officially DONE. It has everything it needs and ready to wreck some mustards until the motor blows up in a week because I'm cursed.

 

[Twist1]

After your comment I did some research and testing and the 525 pulls 18A at full draw. 84% of 18 is....15 amps.

And what do you know, our fuse is a 15A fuse so thats how they last a little while at least on oem controller.

But what is so silly to me is paying 700$ for 3 more lousy amps.

Also the hellcat 525 lpfp flows 30 less lph than a walbro 450 that is able to run on full draw

If calculated with difference (2.7A) in draw between the two the 525 still comes out top without a controller even with the increased draw but barely. Only about 10-15LPH.

This calculation was done in the range our LPF System sees, around 50-60psi or 5-7bar.

 

[Gvazquez]

The stock controller will burn up at around the 17 amp mark. The controller allows up to 35 amps.

 

[aaronc7]

It's my understanding that the 450 and 525 are essentially the same pump, but the 525 uses more current to drive the pump harder, for a given voltage. So yes, exactly like you said...... if staying with stock fuel pump controller I don't think there is any reason to go for the 525.

Also 6 bar =~ 90 psi, so use that for the calculations. I did a quick and dirty and it basically works out that both the 450 and 525 flow the same for a given current

Also keep in mind there's 2 versions of the 450 and 525.

F9000267 - 450 with 87psi relief valve
F9000274 - 450 with 112psi relief valve -- i assume this is what the kits use, the 267 would be awfully close to operating pressure
F9000285 - 525 with 112psi relief valve
F9000295 - 525 same as above but no built in check valve

 

[The Dude]

No one knows because it isn't all amp based. The controller interprets Ecu PW signals from the ecu and turns that into power for the pump. Speed = power or draw of the pump. 84% IS the safe limit.

This is from TI website:

Our data shows us that the F90000285 pump flows 8% more than the F90000274 pump, but in order for that to happen, it has to draw 15% more current. So it is essentially the same pump, but using more current to drive the electric motor harder.

So a 525 at 84% is still out flowed by a 450 with a controller at 100% speed. Interesting. I need a Pm4 but the $$ is outrageous

yea, with a PM4 and 525 you're 12-1300 into the setup, or pag parts has a brushless for 1500. Honestly, I'm kinda leaning towards the brushless. It's only an extra couple hundo, and I'll probably never have to replace it, ever. It's overkill, but whatever. I'll never run out of fuel. ever.

 

[jimlloyd40]

Also if you have a 2018 don't even think about doing lines without some major cussing. VW decided it would be cute to tape the fuel line to the evap line. Which is not accessable in the channel.

But after a lot of pita my car is officially DONE. It has everything it needs and ready to wreck some mustards until the motor blows up in a week because I'm cursed.

I'll bet you wreck some ketchups too. ?

I sure the hell hopes it doesn't blow.

 

[Twist1]

I'm gonna experiment with using a thicker gauge wire to ground into the chassis and then drive the pump up to 86% or so (should still be safe).

It's been great so far however. Still have some fueling headroom @ e70/31psi (barely lol) but a 450 would be maxed out here.

Never thought I'd be scratching 600hp in my mk7 :O

 

[888Gen3]

The stock controller will burn up at around the 17 amp mark. The controller allows up to 35 amps.

Yes, fully right - The OEM pump controller gets hot = 95 degree Celsius and then switches off - Self protection (Your car's fuel supply is cut off immediately !!!).
Our controller for 2.0 TSI Gen.3 allows 95 Amp (You can provide 3x Walbro 450 pumps ! with it and it remains cool ca. 45 degree Celsius)
and it works 100% like the OEM stock pump controller - Plug & Play. Also software changes is at the same location as when modifying stock controller.
Manual is included in the package. We tested this very stable fuel supply (constantly 7 bar) several times with more than 600HP in 2.0 TSI Gen3. MQB.

 

[mk7_drew]

So this happened to me after installing my RS3 pump and Audi controller with about 3 gallons left in the tank, everything done as per instructions. Car idled for about 10 minutes and was fine. While driving (slowly keeping RPMS under 3k) to a gas station to refill the tank the car gets an EPC light.
While idling car shuts off and won’t start.
Filled about 3 gallons in the tank same issue.
I then started checking fuses and the fuel pump control module fuse (15a) was blown, I replaced with another 15 amp fuse as that’s all I had at the time and the car started after a couple attempts. Seems to be driving fine now (Later Switched to 20a for somewhat peace of mind)

Looking at my previous logs the pump duty % is set to 70% so the controller shouldn’t be overheating especially at idle. (Correct?)

I don’t think this is a tune issue as after my 20 mile commute to work everything now seems fine.

Should I revert back to a 15a fuse, keep the 20a because of increased draw or is it possible there was another issue causing the fuse to blow in the first place?

I would like to isolate the issue because from my experiences fuses don’t just blow just like that especially if the thread maker and myself have the same issue as far as I can tell.

 

[aaronc7]

My S3 fuel pump fuse is 20A stock. You’ll be fine

 

[Mosquito]

My S3 fuel pump fuse is 20A stock. You’ll be fine

Interesting. I thought ROW had 20A fuses and NA 15A.

I am installing my RS3 pump tomorrow but can only get it tuned for next Tuesday so I am watching this closely.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

F9000295 - 525 same as above but no built in check valve

I've tired searching and cant find an answer... so does the stock pump have an internal check valve? as I'm wondering if this is even needed? having a pump with the least about of restriction seems like a better option as your draw would be the same but you would gain flow ability.

 

[aaronc7]

I've tired searching and cant find an answer... so does the stock pump have an internal check valve? as I'm wondering if this is even needed? having a pump with the least about of restriction seems like a better option as your draw would be the same but you would gain flow ability.

I can't say for certain, but I don't know of any stock pump that does not have an internal check valve... OEM all about quick starts and such.

I agree-- the "535" will actually work quite well on stock controller due to reduces electrical needs. Maybe an extra crank or two on startup, but not a huge deal.

 

[MSH]

......I agree-- the "535" will actually work quite well on stock controller due to reduces electrical needs. Maybe an extra crank or two on startup, but not a huge deal.

Not on stock controller (PM4) but with my no check valve Pagparts 535 I almost never have starting issues when it's cold or warm. Just a handful of times when I've had a stop where I was somewhere for say 45 mins and come back and start that it would crank a bit longer before firing.

 

[Kyle1116]

Dead thread I know but, what does a 450 typically get set to in order to get rid of that pesky low engine speed code? Any help is deeply appreciated. Thanks in advance.