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Eurodyne Maestro 7 tuning thread

613B6

Ready to race!
Location
Ottawa
I've made adjustments here and there
In quite a few places.

For example
I don't fully understand the how target filling and optimum torque maps are configured. They are inverse but don't always match. I've read about what they mean but I've seen similar tunes with different numbers. Mainly on the top end.

There's a map for Max VE, how do you know what that is? I've bumped it because i believe the Ecu calculates this and if you go over starts yanking timing.

The minimum timing Map? does nothing in my experience.

How do you know when the Ecu Is using low vs High octane timing map? I tune with the high map.

Does It use optimal timing map? Ive just copied my high maps over.

min timing map is the bottom point, timing wont go below it no matter how much it tried to pull.

low vs high map from my past experience can only be completed using a switching option, didnt think that was possible right now? Can you achieve your timing results using either high or low?

Optimal map is the "best calculated" timing points as a reference. I think once you get into anything over stock setups, you should be adjusting timing on the dyno or at least with knock, but thats not always going to produce the best result.
 

jjakimetz

Ready to race!
Location
Lake Mary, FL
Also, for the cold starts, have you adjusted tables that note a difference in values between flaps open to flaps closed? If not, they all need to match the flaps open values, because technically your flaps are always open now as far as the ecu knows
 

cruizin01

Go Kart Champion
Location
C-bus Ohio
Car(s)
07 Rabbit
thanks!

do you have any logs of your cold starts? For most common rail maestro cars ive tuned that had cold start issues where all lean, trace an idle log through the temp vs a/f map and add fuel. Id start there if you havent already.

it's been a since last fall since
I messed with this, but i dint think the a/F is measured right at start up. And its open loop. But as soon as this switches over (~20-30 seconds) then it goes to closed loop and the cold start map takes place. But yeah I'm guessing it's lean but i can't adjust it. I do know fuel trims seem to effect this. Mine are usually negative so if i clear the trims it starts better, which makes me think it does run lean as you said.




You can figure out target filling by looking at your table's section (throttle) and going off of the information in the axis. Looks like RPM vs %tq, and output is a percentage, probably load? It's like TQ based pedal follower, but kind of backwards.

still confused. :p

Max VE appears to go off the same principal, it is pedal based (%torque=torque being requested from the pedal angle[driver input]), and is an expected value. Don't change it unless your engine's actual volumetric efficiency somehow increased by getting block work done. Other than that you could raise it at the top for larger turbos or if more boost is expected than stock (at least thats what it looks like).

I agree. I've made adjustments on the top end and it seems to have fixed any "limiter" issues I've had. Eurodyne support has said the ecu can try and limit output If it feels the number had been met.

Min timing map = absolute lowest timing value allowed, no matter what all spark calculations equal. You could raise this to force higher timing I guess, but that sounds like a really BAD idea.

I assumed that.. I think there were two similar maps and i wasn't sure the difference. Il have to look through my maps.

Low vs Hi octane maps (if anything like GM) is based on your detected knock. If it detects no knock, it trends towards the high octane table. When it sees knock, it trends back towards low octane table. It is probably a bad idea to raise the low table much, in the case of bad gas or accidental 87 octane fillup. For power in optimal condition (no knock), tune high octane table.



That makes decent enough sense. I've left my low octane maps alone.






min timing map is the bottom point, timing wont go below it no matter how much it tried to pull.

low vs high map from my past experience can only be completed using a switching option, didnt think that was possible right now? Can you achieve your timing results using either high or low?

Right. That was what i thought originally. This must not be possible with our ecu's though. Would be nice.



Also, for the cold starts, have you adjusted tables that note a difference in values between flaps open to flaps closed? If not, they all need to match the flaps open values, because technically your flaps are always open now as far as the ecu knows

The only adjustable tables based on flaps are the actual flapper table, which I've adjusted to zero. (The map shows the flapper doing nothing at idle, which i don't know if that's true or not.) And timing maps, which should really do anything for the most part. Unless way off one way or the other



Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
 
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HereticByDefault

Go Kart Champion
Location
Chicago
Hopefully this RS4 injector cold start issue will be resolved soon.

Has anyone gotten it completely ironed out yet? If so, how?
 

cruizin01

Go Kart Champion
Location
C-bus Ohio
Car(s)
07 Rabbit
Hopefully this RS4 injector cold start issue will be resolved soon.

Has anyone gotten it completely ironed out yet? If so, how?

Mine weren't too bad with GIAC.

They got worse with with the combination of eurodyne/flapper removal.

TMS said he has gotten things mostly worked out with his maestro tunes, I just havent had the same luck.

DO Tuning claims they know the fix but they obviously have their own tuning tools.

This is really the only characteristic that aggravates me about my car. You basically cant move the car until it at least warms up for a few minutes. Wont allow for any load.
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas
I can probably help if for some reason somebody doesn't understand what those tables are, or where to make changes... Maybe you just need to know what to datalog? It all looks very straightforward though.

EDIT:

It looks almost like too little, is that everything you would need to have access to in this PCM? Are we locked out of some pieces of the calibration for any reason?

Also, I know there are parts of calibration not in place here, but have there been issues with people needing tables that aren't defined, or is it pretty much complete?

Just never taken the time to do it or learn honestly. Appreciate the help if i decide to proceed. Problem is my vehicle runs like a champ. I have everything so dialed in my wastegate, suspension, wm system ect. To take it when it is running so strong right now and mess with it is not something I really want to do. Im basically done with my gti minus a few minor things here and there. More saving and learning for the golf r im planning on as a second car.
 

vegasGTI

Go Kart Champion
Location
Vegas

613B6

Ready to race!
Location
Ottawa
Cruzin, I can email you the two cold start and temp vs maps, I have the flapper but have no issues with cold starts and rs4s.
 

HereticByDefault

Go Kart Champion
Location
Chicago
In an attempt to not be swayed by the $799.99 = $700 strategy, I somehow ended up rounding to $900.

That's an extra $100 I thought I wouldn't have by the end of this build. Nice lol
 

Tmsracing37

Boosty McFlamin Job
Location
MD
Car(s)
06 GTI
Mine weren't too bad with GIAC.

They got worse with with the combination of eurodyne/flapper removal.

TMS said he has gotten things mostly worked out with his maestro tunes, I just havent had the same luck.



This is really the only characteristic that aggravates me about my car. You basically cant move the car until it at least warms up for a few minutes. Wont allow for any load.

Yep, I got them to work fine. With a few hours spent logging just cold starts in different weather conditions, a I can get injector timing around 1.20-1.5 ms and 15.5-14.2afr (for flapperless manifolds) before the 02 sensor warms up and o2 corrections take over. also I upped rpms little for colder ambient weather cold starts. Refer to THE one idle rpm vs temp table
http://s189.photobucket.com/user/Tmsracing37/media/VIDEO0001-1.mp4.html

http://s189.photobucket.com/user/Tmsracing37/media/VIDEO0003-1.mp4.html

http://s189.photobucket.com/user/Tmsracing37/media/VIDEO0002-1.mp4.html
 
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cruizin01

Go Kart Champion
Location
C-bus Ohio
Car(s)
07 Rabbit
Yep, I got them to work fine. With a few hours spent logging just cold starts in different weather conditions, a I can get injector timing around 1.20-1.5 ms and 15.5-14.2afr (for flapperless manifolds) before the 02 sensor warms up and o2 corrections take over. also I upped rpms little for colder ambient weather cold starts. Refer to THE one idle rpm vs temp table

what specifically are you adjusting to get higher injector timing? I wouldn't assume you would use inj correction as that would be all the time. Like I mentioned before I can bump the warmup correction map and all it does is go super rich when o2 corrections start. I havent messed with lamda vs. temp map too much as its fairly new. I did find it can be used to adjust cruising afr's. I have my RPM's bumped to 1000-1100 under cold conditions. I dont know what other maps need adjusting.... :help:
 

Tmsracing37

Boosty McFlamin Job
Location
MD
Car(s)
06 GTI
what specifically are you adjusting to get higher injector timing? I wouldn't assume you would use inj correction as that would be all the time. Like I mentioned before I can bump the warmup correction map and all it does is go super rich when o2 corrections start. I havent messed with lamda vs. temp map too much as its fairly new. I did find it can be used to adjust cruising afr's. I have my RPM's bumped to 1000-1100 under cold conditions. I dont know what other maps need adjusting.... :help:

I will pm or e-mail you snapshots of all my fueling related tables for you to compare. Can you take some cold start logs(measrto Logger) for me? Log start up idle, until the 02 sensor warms-ups. I will compare it with my logs and notes to see what I can find.
 
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