Endlinks

[ViRtUaLheretic]

I have a BSH 27mm RSB and I used to have the BSH endlinks installed with them but I didnt like the preload the endlinks were putting on the bar so I replaced the endlinks with a set of Whiteline adjustable endlinks (now wish I would have bought 034 adjustable endlinks) but after doing some research on swaybars and endlinks I started reading that some people recommend that you only use 1 adjustable endlink. This would lower the chance that the endlink comes unscrwed and adjusts the preload and would make the adjustments easier as you have a constant to adjust against.
Would there be any benefits to this or am I just doing more work by swapping an endlink?

 

[the bruce]

The truth is, to adjust corner weights and/or sway bar preload,
one adjustable endlink per axle is sufficient.
But I don't see the point why two of them should do any harm.
Loosening nuts? Put some locktite on. With two adjustable end-
links there's still the advantage of adjusting the sway bars so
that they don't touch anything.

 

[GTI_Speed]

Anyone else use Whiteline Adjustable End links in the front and find that they are almost too long for even a slightly lower car when accompanied with an aftermarket bar?

 

[the bruce]

Anyone else use Whiteline Adjustable End links in the front and find that they
are almost too long for even a slightly lower car when accompanied with an
aftermarket bar?

Some time ago I did measurements of them and posted it alle here on the forum.
From what I remember they could be shorter - yes. On the other hand at least in
shortest position they are a little bit shorter compared to stock. If you have issues
you'd have them with stock endlinks all the more.

 

[ViRtUaLheretic]

What led me to investigate the endlinks is that I have some clunking in my suspension (or rear subframe) and have been trying to fix it.

What exactly is the best way to set adjustable endlinks? I know you want to have the car sitting on the ground, but will having the rear on ramps throw off the suspension to where I dial in no preload and then put the car on a flat ground the preload will be off?
I was thinking that by only having one adjustable endlink would be less room for error and would be great to be able to only adjust one side (using TWO bsh endlinks put preload on the bar).
FWIW I also have the Hotchkis 27mm RSB mounting bracket, I ran into issues snapping the Energy Suspension RSB brackets and went for a bulletproof option.

The first time I installed the endlinks I didnt put any loctite on and the nuts did come lose so the when I tightened everything up I put a little bit on them.

Damn if the Whiteline front adjustable endlinks are too long what would be the next best option for an adjustable one?

 

[the bruce]

What exactly is the best way to set adjustable endlinks?

Any access to corner weight gauges?

Place you're own body's weight on the driver's seat, have the tank 1/2 to 3/4 filled
and set tire pressures evenly. Then have the gauges place exactly even and lower
the car onto them. Loosen one end of one endlink per axle.

With corner weight gauges:

Adjust corner weights and toe/camber and corner weights and toe/camber and so
on til it's all fine.
THEN after you're done with this fit the endlinks again, but free of any tension.
Of course most likely you need to adjust them to fit smoothly. Fasten all nuts and
bolts and check corner weights and toe again.

Without corner weight gauges:

Set coilovers evenly left/right (same thread length, not fender as this is by far too
imprecise). Then fit endlinks again without any preload. Fasten nuts.

Check if sway bar moves freely under all circumstances (full bump and droop).

 

[Elliott]

^Love your post sometimes. Great amount of good knowledge.

 

[Autobahn]

without scales you could set the RH endlink side with minimal threads showing and tighten down, then install the left side leaving the jam nuts loose, also leave LH endlink swaybar nut a little loose so you can tell when tension is appropriate, lower car, move car back and forth a bit and if you can put the driver weight in the driver seat, that helps. Then at this point you'll have to twist the endlink while on the ground to adjust. You should be able to turn the wheel to adjust the endlink and then move the wheels straight again, move car a little and then check preload. The LH endlink should freely go into the sway when adjusted properly.

If you have a good alignment shop they could do it for you pretty quickly too, most likely for $20.

Once you get them dialed you can mark the threads or jam nut/body with a marker so you know if the endlinks ever loosen, something to check while changing to race pads. Like the bruce recommended, use loctite. Also the endlinks should have at least 10mm of threads in the endlink body for safe use.

 

[the bruce]

Easiest to do on an alignment rig. At least the car needs to stand on
PERFECTLY even ground. The slightest imperfection of the ground
will mislead you. Without this it's safest (and sufficient) to adjust
equal endlink length on both sides.

 

[ViRtUaLheretic]

Thanks Bruce, Im assuming my endlinks arent set to the same length and thats the noise Im hearing.
I do not have corner scaled, but I know a shop out here that does corner balancing and I have inquuired about it before.
The other thing that might have thrown off my endlink adjustment is that I did not factor in my weight and my garage floor isnt level.