DIY PTC (Auxiliary) Heater Install

[Timpanogos Slim]

What part number was your core, out of curiosity? Edit: duh, E.

I'll take a look at my coding some time tonight and we can compare notes.

Tried clearing codes?

It may be worth noting that my canbus gateway is from a mk6, though that should not matter.

. :Sent by pneumatic tubes

 

[Natalie]

Here is my scan. Vag part number for the core is the E revision. 1k0 963 235 E. I upgraded my canbus a few years ago to a new revision canbus? I was doing the RCD-510 install and changed it so I didn't have the battery drain issues. I've got pictures of the coding as well if you need that.

Monday,03,February,2014,16:58:06:38673
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: Release 12.12.0 (x64)
Data version: 20130910


VIN: WVWEV71K47W249053 License Plate:
Mileage: 195710km-121608mi Repair Order:



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Chassis Type: 1K (1K0)
Scan: 01 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 2E 42 44 46 47 52 55 56 65 7D


VIN: WVWEV71K47W249053 Mileage: 195710km/121608miles

01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
1C-Position Sensing -- Status: Not registered 0001
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
2E-Media Player 3 -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: Malfunction 0010
44-Steering Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: Cannot be reached 1100
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Xenon Range -- Status: Malfunction 0010
56-Radio -- Status: Malfunction 1010
65-Tire Pressure -- Status: Not registered 0001
7D-Aux. Heat -- Status: Malfunction 0010

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: 1K0-820-047.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 820 047 GF HW: 1K0 820 047 GF
Component: Climatic PQ35 141 0909
Revision: 00141027 Serial number: 00000000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 6EFD196B7900146E76F-803B

No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels: 3C0-937-049-23-H.lbl
Part No SW: 3C0 937 049 AE HW: 3C0 937 049 AE
Component: Bordnetz-SG H52 2002
Revision: 00H52000 Serial number: 00000006908945
Coding: 878D0F214104150047140000001400000028770B5C0001
Shop #: WSC 02609 444 57266
VCID: 6CF913634F1CE67E58B-8039

Subsystem 1 - Part No: 1K1 955 119 E Labels: 1KX-955-119.CLB
Component: Wischer 270307 020 0501
Coding: 00038805
Shop #: WSC 02609

01207 - Control Module for Auxiliary Heater (J364)
004 - No Signal/Communication
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01110100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 31
Reset counter: 18
Mileage: 195605 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2005.09.13
Time: 31:63:63

Freeze Frame:
ON
Voltage: 12.15 V
ON
ON
OFF
OFF
OFF


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 1K0-907-530-V4.clb
Part No SW: 1K0 907 530 AD HW: 1K0 907 951
Component: J533 Gateway H16 0233
Revision: H16 Serial number: 4590K10C060261
Coding: E9811F16100212000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 69F76A7740EEF35623D-803C


01207 - Control Module for Auxiliary Heater (J364)
004 - No Signal/Communication - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100100
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Reset counter: 56
Mileage: 195605 km
Time Indication: 0


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 7D: Aux. Heat Labels: 1K0-963-235.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
Revision: 00800000 Serial number:
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2D7FDE67B4862F760F5-8078

2 Faults Found:
00361 - Heater Element for Auxiliary Heater (Z35)
014 - Defective
01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation - Intermittent

End ---------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

ok i always save my autoscans so i can refer back, or revert to earlier coding.

Found this from 12/22/13:

Address 7D: Aux. Heat Labels: 1K0-963-235.lbl
Part No SW: 1K0 963 235 E HW: 1K0 963 235 E
Component: PTC-Element 0404
Revision: 00800000 Serial number:
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2D51EEC2B48272760F5-8078

1 Fault Found:
01299 - Diagnostic Interface for Data Bus (J533)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

So, I have been there. For at least one of your codes. I will try and figure out wtf i did.

 

[Natalie]

Here is the coding:

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

I do wonder if that defective thing could be due to not a good enough connection to power.

How perfect did your core look when you got it? Mine wasn't even dusty, looked new.

Since the heating element is ceramic, I suppose if some greasemonkey dropped it on a concrete floor it might crack. You'd think that with the aluminum cladding and a box, etc, it would be somewhat protected. I am under the impression that there are 3 long ceramic elements.

Hope you don't have a damaged core. That would suck.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

do you have climatronic? I sure as heck don't.

 

[Natalie]

It looked brand new when I got it. The yard had it sitting in a warehouse for quite some time. Was packaged carefully and wrapped almost as if it came from a dealer. Nothing was moving around when I held it so it didn't seem like anything was broken. No bent or mis-shaped elements on it.

It won't allow me to clear the codes either. They seem to be stuck there. I have climatic. I mentioned earlier (in a PM to you Slim) that I put one zinc washer under the positive side of the housing because I couldn't trim the plastic around the positive terminal low enough for a flush connection with the positive copper lug. Would this affect it at all? It's still touching the positive terminal...

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Attached is my output test results.

Since i am near the full 1kw, i wonder if this means that you have a poor electrical connection somewhere, or an element is damaged?

lets hope just the 1st if either.

This was with the engine on, idling, heat turned all the way up, fan on level 1.

 

[Natalie]

Yea my shot was from an idle. I think I've read on some other forums that each element is 333w so that could make sense. The washer wouldn't affect the connection though would it?

Like I said with mine the only way I could get that was through an output test, it won't come on on it's own.

The ground lug attached to post B is inside of the plastic housing that was surrounding that connection but it's still touching the terminal there. Maybe I should check the wires that I spliced into? I know with those 14-18 awg t-taps the wires I spliced didn't go all the way to the bottom of the t-tap but I figure if I've got a connection and it's recognized then that should be good.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

measuring blocks 1 and 4 are pretty interesting. Will show you when it turns on or off as you move the dial, and the coolant temperature, etc. interesting stuff. smart damn car.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

the washer could affect the connection if it's a stamped zinc plated steel that isn't letting it connect fully, perhaps.

Can you make it work w/o the washer? maybe you can get brass washers from the hardware store - easier to crush. metallic anti-seize can help too.

 

[Natalie]

the washer could affect the connection if it's a stamped zinc plated steel that isn't letting it connect fully, perhaps.

Can you make it work w/o the washer? maybe you can get brass washers from the hardware store - easier to crush. metallic anti-seize can help too.

I probably could I just figured you wanted as flush of a connection as possible with that lug. Brass or copper would be better?

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Yeah, brass or copper is better. I forget which lug you are referring to. But i am having second thoughts about how likely that scenario is, and i'm more afraid that your core is damaged.

. :Sent by pneumatic tubes

 

[Natalie]

Yeah, brass or copper is better. I forget which lug you are referring to. But i am having second thoughts about how likely that scenario is, and i'm more afraid that your core is damaged.

. :Sent by pneumatic tubes

I was referring to the positive one. I had to elevate the lug to get it to sit flush. Yea I'm kind of thinking the same thing though it looked good. Damn luck is not on my side with this install. Even though these guys were able to get the part right on the first try.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Like i said, I got my lugs to sit flush w/o cracking the plastic by remodeling my lugs. I used a file, though a grinder would be quicker.